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Thread: Sandy Screwed U; Can you help with Honeywell Zone valves?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member LBPatrick's Avatar
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    Default Sandy Screwed U; Can you help with Honeywell Zone valves?

    Hello,
    Due to Sandy, we had our boiler replaced. My plumber is waiting on his elec to connect the transformer and thermostat. As you can imagine the elec guy is busy changing panels. Plumber bypassed relay so when i need heat i turn boiler on and off as needed.

    Can anyone help me? I have 2 Honeywell Zone valves for my baseboard system, each has 2 yellow & 2 red wires. Does anyone have a simple JPEG of how i need to hook up the zones/boiler/valves/transformer?

    I think this is the transformer i need:
    Honeywell AT72D1683 120V/24V Transformer
    http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-AT72...s=085267990103

    Any love would be appreciated. An good JPEG would be golden.
    Last edited by Terry; 11-20-2012 at 08:56 AM.

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    In the interim, most zone valves have a manual open lever...rather than cobble something together that will need to be changed later, I'd just open them. Then, when the boiler and pump are running, they'll pass that through. No neat control unless you want to go shut them down manually, though.

    On most, one set of leads is just an internal switch that can be used to start the boiler, the other is the set that provides power to open the zone valve. So, when the thermostat for that zone closed the zone valve by one set of wires, the other would close, telling the boiler there was a call for heat.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member LBPatrick's Avatar
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    JadNahua,
    Yes that is what we did, set it to pen manual and when we need heat i turn on my switch. Just looking for a a concise drawing of my situation. I have 2 zone valves(H8043), 2 thermostats, Slantfin SE-140 boiler and Honeywell AT72D1683 transformer

    Thanks again.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    There's more than one way to set this up, so without seeing what you have, it's kind of hard. If you have a zone controller box (and some boilers have this built in), the thermostats would go to that as would the zone valves and the second pair of wires may not be needed on the valve.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member LBPatrick's Avatar
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    Default

    Name:  BoilerWiring.jpg
Views: 2756
Size:  52.9 KB

    Thanks, will this diagram help. I got the manual for the wiring and looked real quick, but have other pressing demands on my time. I think I understand the wiring diagram but would love a second opinion. Thanks

  6. #6
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    I found some V8043 Honeywell zone valves, but not H8043. The yellow pair of wires are for the motor to close the zone valve (springs open it when power is removed). The red leads are a switch and whether you need that switch or not depends on how the system is designed.

    To connect a thermostat (typically) to the zone valve, you run a cable with two wires to the thermostat (some thermostats want three wires or even more - that additional one might end up being the other side of the 24vac transformer which would give the thermostat power, rather than relying on internal batteries). One is connected to one side of the 24vac transformer, the other goes to one of the yellow wires on the zone valve it is supposed to control. THen, you need to run a lead from the other side of the 24vac transformer and connect it to the other yellow lead on the zone valve. Often, there's a junction block somewhere, and you just run a 2-wire cable to the thermostat and a second 2-wire cable to the zone valve, but essentially, one lead is just looped through that junction block. That would open the valve, but it doesn't tell the boiler to operate - that's where the second set of wires from the zone valve(s) comes into play. How that switch works, depends on the boiler and controller, if it is needed at all. It's possible that the thermostat will directly inform the boiler and the switch isn't needed. Something needs to trigger the circulator to turn on and the boiler to turn on, and it could be done in the boiler or from a control box...

    Those two wires currently wire nutted together could potentially be connected to the switches from the zone valves, bu tthat may not be the best way to do it.

    You really should have someone intimately familiar with your installation do this. Unless you understand exactly what you have, you can quickly burn something up and potentially hurt yourself. Then, you'd have NO heat until you can get someone out there.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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