What are the differences between 7000SXT, XTR and NXT? Spacer removal for chloramine?
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hahaha, agreed. And you are correct, the vortech one is obviously "emphasized for affect". Watts used to carry a clear tank for demo purposes, but it was so boring and overdone at the trade shows that Watts stopped carrying the product.
Now when people want a clear demo, I recommend they make it themselves out of clear PVC. When they see how expensive it is too make, it rarely gets done.
The clear demos all use flat tops and bottoms. The lack of a dome makes the actual data useless.
I am taking a break from water later this week, my daughter and I have lots of hockey practice, and we are in a parade with my Jeep. "BTW, proud dad moment and some bragging! My 7 year old daughters 8U Lady Reign team beat the Aliso Viejo boys team last weekend, 2-1, and my daughter had the game winning goal!"
We have won the main award for the parade 3 years in a row, gonna try to win again. I will have the new display on my youtube channel in a week with any luck. We will be in the Wrightwood parade of lights if anyone in the Southern California area is bored on November 24th.
ByteMe, I admit water treatment is exciting and fun, but like Tom said...![]()
How to rebuild a softener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJS...ature=youtu.be
What are the differences between 7000SXT, XTR and NXT? Spacer removal for chloramine?
SXT is basic programming, XTR is semi proprietary with additional troubleshooting, diagnostics, output relays, etc, the NXT is being built to allow for twin alernating, series, system 6, system 7, system 14 etc. by using an external shut off. This has been available to Culligan for a long time, it will now be available to most other dealers in the near future. It is rumored to be available in about 2-4 months.
Chloramine does a little more damage to the seals, it can soften them and cause them to "stick" to the valve. If you remove the seals and they do not come out easily or leave little bits behind,then a careful cleaning of the inside of the valve body may be needed.
Clear tanks for sale? Not that I am aware of. Most companies simply build them out of clear acrylic tube, a couple flat plates and drill and tap for the valve. I have made a few out of clear PVC, the end caps are slighly domed which allows for the display to be slighly more realistic. They are extremely expensive. 8" caps are about $400, the 4' length of 8" PVC pipe is abour $300, then a drill and 2-1/2"-8 tap...
Last edited by ditttohead; 11-20-2012 at 01:06 PM.
How to rebuild a softener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJS...ature=youtu.be
Might be easier to cut a window in a standard tank and replace it with a plastic insert, mounted on the inside, sealed, etc. Much easier to roll a piece of acrylic to match the inside contour of the tank than to form a dome, but not having seen the inside of a tank, I'm not sure about the sealing thing. While you're at it, you could place a few led light strips inside to light up the action. Get a comfy chair, some popcorn, and invite all the neighbors.
You'd have a tough time getting anything down into the tank through the 2.5" threaded hole in the top of the tank.
A thick piece of plexiglass used for glass replacement in windows, heated up enough to allow bending it to fit the outside curve of the tank and some closed foam or rubber automotive maybe seal material around the edge of the maybe 4-5" wide x 20" or so long cut out in the tank. Then a few large hose clamps would probably hold enough water pressure like 30 psi, to allow a person to see the internal action of the resin during a regeneration but only as a demo unit. Most any local water treatment dealer would from time to time have an old used tank they want to get rid of.
Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
I would fit the acrylic window on the inside of the tank after cutting the hole -- no need to squeeze it thru the top of the tank. Rabbet a groove for an o-ring in the window, and tank pressure would actually help seal things, assuming the inside surface of the tank is smooth enough for a soft o-ring to mold against. Given the overall excitement about this, though, I guess it will remain a gedanken experiment.
I have seen some clear resin tanks on utube. Someone has got to have some for sell. Boozoo button to first person to find!
Actually, the tank would not need to hold any pressure. It is a flow rate based regeneration, not pressure based. I design both open tank and closed system portable exchange tank regeneration plants, they both work just fine, and the backwash works the same. The turbulator... not too sure about that, but I dont see why it would not wark as well.
How to rebuild a softener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJS...ature=youtu.be
Yeah me too but I don't know how you'd get a piece of curved plastic that is larger than the cut out hole, through that hole and then, hold it in place while you pressurized the tank to hold it in place with water pressure. I guess if you could get it in the tank you could attach something to it on the outside so you could pull it against the inside of the tank until the pressure built up.
So how do you get the larger than the hole clear piece into the tank and keep the o-ring in place, when the clear piece doesn't bend, and then keep hold of it?
Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
The cutaway tanks are miserable to make, but we have done many for dealers displays. Cut an oval hole in the side of the tank, spend too many hours trying to clean up the edge, or finally go to mcmaster and get edge guard.Then use some thin plexiglass and spend another hour with 2 part epoxy, glue it from the inside. Cut the epoxy just an inch or 2 larger than the side hole.
It can be wetted if it done correctly, I would not put more than a pound or 2 on it though. Again, this design does not need to handle pressure, only flow.
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How to rebuild a softener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJS...ature=youtu.be
I'm not following this part; Then use some thin plexiglass and spend another hour with 2 part epoxy, glue it from the inside. Cut the epoxy just an inch or 2 larger than the side hole.
You are gluing the plexiglass with epoxy and yet cutting the plexiglass 2" larger, and doing that on the inside of the tank?
For the visual of the effect of backwash, brine draw etc. you need at least 20 psi.
Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
Backwash does not take any pressure to work. Like I said, I build open to atmosphere portable exchange tank regeneration systems. It only requires flow, it does not require an ability to hold pressure to get a proper 20-30% bed expansion on a resin bed. Same goes for the injector. The injector assembly requires some pressure, but the tank itself does not.
Try this, cut an oval out of paper, now cut another one 10% larger, see how easy it is to install it through the hole so that is can be mounted to the backside. Gluing it to the inside gives it a nicer look, and does not require that the plexiglass be perfectly cut. You may be thinking of a round hole, you would be correct in the assumption that it would not fit, square, rectangle, oval all work fine. That is why manhole covers are round.![]()
Last edited by ditttohead; 11-21-2012 at 03:08 PM.
How to rebuild a softener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJS...ature=youtu.be
The ones I made were simply plexi that I gasket end and bolted through the tank using ss toilet tank bolts with the rubber gasket.
No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license!
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