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Thread: Adding discharge line to soil stack

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member PeteSC's Avatar
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    Default Adding discharge line to soil stack

    I'm adding a master bathroom onto my house and converting an old 3-piece bathroom to a powder room. One of the challenges has been figuring out how to add the the drain line from the addition into the original 4" soil stack, another has been how to re-work the powder room toilet and laundry discharge line back into the soil stack, and finally the close proximity of it all (which actually might be a blessing given the close quarters of the crawlspace).

    The first photo shows a plumber's attempt at it; I cringed right off the bat at the sanitary tee turned on its side at the Fernco fitting. Then the use of 90* and 45* street fittings in an "S" (why not just use the 45* turned over?) to accept the upstairs portion of the soil stack at a 45* angle. And then the toilet/laundry drain just seems like a mess to me. And no cleanout. And no PVC primer.

    Anyway, I took the day off from work yesterday and re-did it all as shown in the second photo below. I used a wye and a combo wye turned horizontally and back-to back-to accept the drain line from the bath addition and upstairs portion of the soil stack. I then used separate sanitary tees to tie in the 3" toilet line and 2" laundry drain line. Then I was able to put the upstairs soil stack run back to horizontal and tied back in with a 90* elbow and add a cleanout. I'm pretty happy with it....I think if I could change anything it would have been to use a 3" long sweep 90* on the toilet bend, but hopefully the short bend will be fine.

    Any comments or feedback would be appreciated.
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    Last edited by PeteSC; 11-16-2012 at 01:26 PM.

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    DIY Senior Member kreemoweet's Avatar
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    Why is that 2 in vent line (as I assume it is) connected to the 3 in drain from above,
    rather than the toilet trap arm as it should be?

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member PeteSC's Avatar
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    That 2" line is the laundry drain. The drop from the toilet flange to the closet bend is less than 2 feet, and the distance from the closet bend to the main stack is less than 1.5 feet. I'm in an IPC state which doesn't limit the distance between the closet bend and vent, but a combined distance of 3.5 feet from flange to stack vent shouldn't be to excessive under most codes, would it?

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    a combined distance of 3.5 feet from flange to stack vent shouldn't be to excessive under most codes, would it?
    Most codes allow for six feet or less for the vent on a toilet

    By the way, your work looks much better then the plumbers.

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    DIY Junior Member PeteSC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    By the way, your work looks much better then the plumbers.
    Thank you very much....that is greatly appreciated.

    The way my plumber had it done LITERALLY kept me up at night, mainly with that horizontal sanitary and lack of a clean-out. As I told my wife this is our home and I want it to function right, so it was a no brainer to try and redo it. This project has taken a physical toll as I've herniated two disks in my neck which have pinched a nerve causing my left triceps, forearm and thumb to be numb as well as a loss of strength in that arm. So five hours in the crawlspace yesterday certainly didn't do me any good physically, but mentally I feel great about it.

    After inspection I'll have to crawl back under there one more time to back fill around the soil stack. Since I have the room should I replace the short sweep on the closet bend with a long sweep? Would that help the toilet to flush more efficiently or would any difference be negligible?
    Last edited by PeteSC; 11-16-2012 at 01:23 PM.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    There would be absolutely no difference, in fact a regular "closet bend" which is what I would use is a "square corner". Your upper picture seems to be dark at the place where we want to see how he did it. Why did YOU redo it? He would have had to replace it after the inspector rejected it.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member PeteSC's Avatar
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    Thanks hj. Glad to know I can leave the bend as-is.

    The upper picture was taken when the subfloor was open, and since the plumber did the work my photo was from the top as I had no reason at the time to get down in there for a photo from a different angle. The photo i took yesterday is from beneath the house at my perspective with the subfloor all closed up (and if you notice that rotted joist sistered). I decided just to do the fix myself for several reasons as this project is now just over a year old for many reasons I won't get into here. I'm finally at a point where I'm ready for plumbing rough in, electrical rough in and framing inspection and don't feel like wasting any more time in having that prior work fail then explain why and how it has to be redone to a licensed plumber. Furthermore I'm concerned about having him come back and do more work, as he either 1.) doesn't know what he's doing to begin with, 2.) does know but just went with whatever parts he had on the truck to do it or 3.) is banking on the inspector not wanting to crawl back there and therefore not ever seeing it to fail it in the first place. Whether I'm a fool for not pressing the issue with the paid plumber is certainly possible. However, I feel better about the work now, think it will pass inspection on Monday and I won't stress if the inspector never looks at it to begin with.
    Last edited by PeteSC; 11-19-2012 at 06:45 AM.

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