New water softener system awaiting installation, few questions.

[marcelo73]

Glad to hear you have those fittings.

When you are ready to turn the water on, have the control valve in backwash and turn on the water about a 1/4 flow until it starts going out the drain line. Then open it up watching the water for color or resin. If color open it full open but shut it down some if you get resin. Run it until any color disappears then step the control through the cycles to Service and run water a tub to flush the lines.

You need to program the control valve based on your hardness etc. and how much water you use per day.

BTW, you solder those fittings on the plumbing without them connected to the by pass or control valve. Otherwise you melt plastic...

You need to add like 5 gallons of water to the brine tank before adding salt. And I suggest keeping the salt level about half full instead of filling the tank and then if there is a problem you have to remove salt to be able to work on it. It also helps prevent running out of salt if you check the level more frequently than not.

Ok Gary.

I actually hacked the piping down below far from the inlet and outlet at the valve, so I won't have to worry about anything melting.

Is there a manual available to assist me in the programming of the control valve?

And finally how do I know if the tank requires resin, or should I replace it since the tanks have not been services in about 3 years and been out of use for over a year?

Thanks Gary, I appreciate the information.

[Gary Slusser]

You should find a manual for your model of valve here;
www.gewater.com

I would install the unit and add 5 gallons of water with a 1/2 cup of non scented regular bleach to the salt tank and then a bag of salt and do a manual regeneration. Then see how the water is and if it is soft and go from there.

[Gary Slusser]

So a salt grid eleimnates the dirt in salt? lol, you need to take a physics course. The brine grid only hides the dirt, it does not get rid of it. Your logic on this one is not sound. A softener will go for many years without service, and if a homeowner is incapable of doing a 1 minute visual check on their softener every couple of months without having to constantly add salt to keep it half full, then maybe they should be on exchange tanks instead.

You are the only one I have ever heard promoting keeping the brine tank less than full, except for guys who sell cheap square brine tanks, then you may have a point since the square brine tanks can start to look pregnant after a few years, especially in warmer climates.

The grid allows the 'dirt' to stay on the bottom of the tank and cause no problems until there is a few inches of it, which should be in maybe 20+ years if not a decade or two longer than that.

Yes a softener can go many years without requiring any service so I question why you "professionals" suggest cleaning the salt tank, what was it you said, every two years? Or don't you consider that as service? So which way is it, every two years or not?

[ditttohead]

I would like to hear anyone else who has the opinion that a couple inches of ??? in he salt tank for 20 years without cleaning is an accepatable practice. Are you really going to stick to that? Just like you stuck with telling someone to repair a plumbing problem with duct tape?

[Gary Slusser]

I don't see where you can assume I said it was even suggested to go 20 years let alone accepatable practice. It must be something in your self treated water that causes you to misconstrue what I say so much. I'm starting to think you do it on purpose; like the trolls you go on about repeatedly.

The duct tape thing was about using it to hold salt bags over a well casing service line etc. excavation while back filling the hole but I see you like to gossip. See if you can find someone to tell you about how I extended buried etc. well casing up out of the ground to replace jet pumps with a submersible. And remind those pump and well driller etc. anti DIYer whiners that it was in PA where I was fully licensed. I'm sure you'll get along just fine with them.

[ditttohead]

You are the one who brought up 20 years, in this thread, Just re-read, it is not that complex... maybe it is, to much nicotine restricting blood flow to the brain?

Really, you didnt tell someone to fix a plumbing leak with duct tape? Are you seriously going to try to change up that story? Like the way you had never heard of PVC well casings?

Now to the point, allowing the system to run low on salt... cleaning the brine tank and sanitizing it, how is that a bad idea every other year? Why would that be bad? How can it hurt? What would you, the king of DIY, require of the minions?

[Gary Slusser]

You are the one who brought up 20 years, in this thread, Just re-read, it is not that complex... maybe it is, to much nicotine restricting blood flow to the brain?

Really, you didnt tell someone to fix a plumbing leak with duct tape? Are you seriously going to try to change up that story? Like the way you had never heard of PVC well casings?

Now to the point, allowing the system to run low on salt... cleaning the brine tank and sanitizing it, how is that a bad idea every other year? Why would that be bad? How can it hurt? What would you, the king of DIY, require of the minions?

I said "The grid allows the 'dirt' to stay on the bottom of the tank and cause no problems until there is a few inches of it, which should be in maybe 20+ years if not a decade or two longer than that.".

I' told you about the duct tape and no, at the time I had not heard of PVC well casing and drillers in my area may not be using it yet. They like the superior strength of steel for their usually deep rock bore wells.

heheheheh, variable reserve on a twin alternating unit, seriously??? That speaks volumes, nuff said.

I did not mention variable reserve on a twin tank softener so what are you talking about?

I'm thinking you confused my saying "I used a correctly sized two tank softener with variable reserve ..." with a twin tank.

[Tom Sawyer]

You can't use PVC to extend a well case. It's against code

[Gary Slusser]

Strange that I keep hearing how nothing is illegal unless you're caught, but then I guess there has to be a law against the thing to start with or it's not illegal. And then there's that thing about PVC being used for well casing. Makes it sound as if something must be outta whack.

[Tom Sawyer]

Strange that I keep hearing how nothing is illegal unless you're caught, but then I guess there has to be a law against the thing to start with or it's not illegal. And then there's that thing about PVC being used for well casing. Makes it sound as if something must be outta whack.

Isn't that a quote from the bootlegger program?

[Gary Slusser]

Nah, that's Moonshiners. Bootleggers are those that transport the moonshine so, it's called Moonshiners because it's about making moonshine illegally or until they get enough money to make it legally.

[marcelo73]

Nah, that's Moonshiners. Bootleggers are those that transport the moonshine so, it's called Moonshiners because it's about making moonshine illegally or until they get enough money to make it legally.

From water softeners to moonshine... Love this forum!

Looks like install will have to be put off as I now have been flooded with work, haven't had a day off in 8 days.

I have purchased all copper fittings and salt, all I need to do is get a water hardness reading and daily water usage number and get a day off!

Can I even use the word "flooded" on a plumbing forum??? Lol!!!

Happy thanksgiving fellas ... Gobble gobble

[marcelo73]

So today I tentatively put down all the copper piping and have a few questions(I have zero plumbing experience). At one point the copper piping will run along concrete for approximately 8" then up into tanks, and of course the return lines. NOW, does the piping need to be wrapped or do I need to lay anything underneath it. It will be secured to the ground with concrete screws and copper straps.

Also can anyone recommend a home water hardness test kit from the home depot or lowes, I did the water and soap at home test but according to the foaming, it would indicate I do not have hard water, even though scale suggests otherwise.

[Mikey]

I'm no expert, but I sure wouldn't strap copper pipe to concrete. (The experts will undoubtedly correct me and/or tell you how to secure it properly.)

[Gary Slusser]

I agree.

A piece of wood etc. anchored to the concrete between the concrete and the tubing would be my way of doing it. Or put a sleeve over the copper and a couple spacers of whatever works instead of something as long as the tubing.