New water softener system awaiting installation, few questions.

**ditttohead** · 11-23-2012, 09:16 AM

Home Depot and other home improvement stores typically do not sell adequate test kits. Get a Hach 5B test kit. It is a simple and accurate kit that is reasonably priced.

**marcelo73** · 11-23-2012, 02:05 PM

Originally Posted by ditttohead

Home Depot and other home improvement stores typically do not sell adequate test kits. Get a Hach 5B test kit. It is a simple and accurate kit that is reasonably priced.

Thanks for your input on pipe along concrete, I will fix that.

Ditto, thanks for info on test kit I will search for it.

M

**Mikey** · 11-24-2012, 04:33 AM

Originally Posted by Gary Slusser

A piece of wood etc. anchored to the concrete between the concrete and the tubing would be my way of doing it.

Any thoughts about pressure-treated wood?

**ditttohead** · 11-24-2012, 09:26 AM

Unistrut with insulated clamp.

**marcelo73** · 11-24-2012, 11:06 AM

Originally Posted by Mikey

Any thoughts about pressure-treated wood?

Exactly along the lines that I was thinking, replacing of course every couple of years as im sure even treated wood outdoor exposed would weather after time.

**marcelo73** · 11-24-2012, 11:07 AM

Originally Posted by ditttohead

Unistrut with insulated clamp.

This looks like a great fix, I will look into it.

**Mikey** · 11-24-2012, 02:45 PM

Originally Posted by marcelo73

This looks like a great fix, I will look into it.

That's definitely the pro way to do it. Very pricey, but if you've got a buddy in the trades, she might be able to get you some short pieces of scrapped Unistrut. I've gotten a lot of it out of jobsite Dumpsters.

Re treated wood, I'd heard that it and copper in contact don't get along, but the new treatments are copper-based and may be just fine.

**marcelo73** · 11-24-2012, 04:37 PM

Originally Posted by Mikey

That's definitely the pro way to do it. Very pricey, but if you've got a buddy in the trades, she might be able to get you some short pieces of scrapped Unistrut. I've gotten a lot of it out of jobsite Dumpsters.

Re treated wood, I'd heard that it and copper in contact don't get along, but the new treatments are copper-based and may be just fine.

Yes it is a bit out of my budget, but definetly the pro way. I may just make some adjustments and run along the exterior of the house which is stucco, wait would stucco have same alkalinity effect that concrete does? The treated wood which is copper based might be the most economical.

**Gary Slusser** · 11-24-2012, 08:02 PM

If it was me, I'd save a few bucks and a lot of worry it seems by using sch 40 PVC instead of copper and laying it right on the concrete. And an additional benefit is no one wants to steal plastic...

**ditttohead** · 11-24-2012, 10:17 PM

Actually, the material is surprisingly inexpensive. I personally always use 304 stainless since the cost for that is reasonable. Check out this link. McMaster Carr is expensive, but considering how cheap it is even through them, it is worth looking into.
And they typically ship the same day.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#strut-channel-systems/=kb9ghw

http://www.mcmaster.com/#strut-channel-systems/=kb9hbv

**Tom Sawyer** · 11-25-2012, 05:11 AM

If the piping is inside the building it can NOT be schedule 40 PVC for the supply lines.

**Mikey** · 11-25-2012, 05:13 AM

Originally Posted by ditttohead

Actually, the material is surprisingly inexpensive.

That is the way to go, although the thought of cutting a bunch of 6" pieces with a hacksaw isn't appealing. The only place I looked for strut material was a local A/C supply house I use, but they only sold it in 10-foot lengths. We've got a McMaster Carr outlet here -- I generally don't even think about them because they tend to be expensive. I tried to see how much the cushioned clamps are, but their web site search seems to be steam-powered today.

**Mikey** · 11-25-2012, 06:47 AM

Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer

If the piping is inside the building it can NOT be schedule 40 PVC for the supply lines.

I suppose that's "code" -- any idea what the reasoning is behind that?

**Tom Sawyer** · 11-25-2012, 07:24 AM

If you have a Fastenall store around they sell Uni-Strut in 5' lengths

PVC is not rated for supply distribution inside a structure. The problem is that PVC is not rated for temperatures above 185 degrees and if the PVC was only used for cold water it would be OK but sooner or later someone that didn't know the why;s and wherefore's would undoubtedly wind up using PVC for hot water with disastrous results.

**Gary Slusser** · 11-25-2012, 08:41 AM

Most people would think that plumbers should know better... or their inspectors would catch the mistake, but then there is that part of PVC going in easier and quicker than copper and earning plumbers less money.

Ummm this is outside behind or along side the house....

Are we sure that Unistrut is made for outdoor applications and that the clamp rubber will stand up to the elements? Are you planning on anchoring the strut to the concrete? IIRC, Lowe's and Home Depot sells it. A couple short pieces of oak from a shipping pallet would last for decades but PVC tubing would be the best choice.