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Thread: Mudding to/into tub lip for surround???

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Why did I try this?'s Avatar
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    Default Mudding to/into tub lip for surround???

    Hi,
    I am having a contractor install my tub and surround. Ok, so he told his mud guy to mud right to/into the lip of the tub, wtf !!? I never heard of such a thing. He did say that they would caulk before and after the surround goes on. With the cement board & lip gap full of mud I don't see anywhere to caulk before hand. It seems to me that the drywall mud will in short order start to wick and fall apart...?

    Lack of simple thought can really make a job go south fast His help didn't shim the cement board so the edges don't match the drywall. I brought this up and he didn't think it was a big deal, his mud guy would just float the joint out. I understand this can happen on remodels but the height difference was 1/8"+ and there is only ~7" to float the joint before the edge of the surround. It looks like S@!t.


    Thoughts please,
    Thank you
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  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Are the walls around the tub cbu or drywall? Drywall should never be used in a wet area. Is that drywall mud or mortar? If mortar, your tub will likely be scratched cleaning off the excess. It should NOT be tight there, but there SHOULD be a vapor barrier installed behind it, lapped over the tiling flange. You might be able to use a topical waterproofing material, one is RedGard from Custom Building Products, or Hydroban.

    If that's drywall mud, you've got a problem...well, even if it's thinset, you have a problem. Wait for one of the pros, but it sure looks pretty sloppy and not in accordance with general practice or manufacturer's instructions to me!
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Member Killer95Stang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Are the walls around the tub cbu or drywall? Drywall should never be used in a wet area. Is that drywall mud or mortar? If mortar, your tub will likely be scratched cleaning off the excess. It should NOT be tight there, but there SHOULD be a vapor barrier installed behind it, lapped over the tiling flange. You might be able to use a topical waterproofing material, one is RedGard from Custom Building Products, or Hydroban.

    If that's drywall mud, you've got a problem...well, even if it's thinset, you have a problem. Wait for one of the pros, but it sure looks pretty sloppy and not in accordance with general practice or manufacturer's instructions to me!

    Like said above, go the John Bridge tile forums and ask the same exact question.. with better pics. But... as of right now, it looks like that is indeed drywall and drywall mud, which is a huge no-no in a wet area. Although, it could be saved with the application of Shluter Kerdi system... but if your contractor does that kind of work, he will not know what to do with Kerdi.

    Main problem... most contractors believe that tile, grout, CBU are water proof.

    Good luck!!

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    Hi,
    They installed cement board Durock but are using drywall mud on the seams. A 5 piece plastic shower surround will be glued on. No tile if that makes a difference.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    While Durock won't be affected by moisture, the drywall mud will re-emulsify when it gets wet, plus the Durock will wick moisture up and that could affect the studs behind. There's a reason they say to leave a gap at that seam. If the walls really get glued to the backer, the drywall mud will be an issue. In reality, they didn't need to put any mud on those seams when it is to be covered by a tub surround - the wall is just there to provide a strong surface so you don't bend or damage the wall if you lean on it. I'd be concerned. What does the instruction set for the surround say about wall prep? What about the instructions for the tub?

    Cleaning off all that drywall mud might leave the tub finish dull or scratched, not something you want to see on a new install!
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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