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Thread: Connect toilet directly over main drain. 3" clearance under subfloor to top of drain.

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    DIY Junior Member zx6e's Avatar
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    Oct 2012

    Default Connect toilet directly over main drain. 3" clearance under subfloor to top of drain.

    I've checked out this site for almost a year here and there and finally joined today. I've searched a lot for an answer to this but the Q is pretty specific. (and more to come no doubt).
    Move toilet 8" or up to 10" into existing bathroom so I can move the wall in the matching needed 8" -10" (to connect my garage to my house, create a new main entrance to house and mudroom etc...)

    Can I tie into my main drain (white PVC) below - I want to go direct in since the main drain is directly under where I want to have the closet flange drain. The main drain is flush up against this 'farthest' floor joist that I want to go to (without relocating drain or chopping huge holes in my small floor joists). I *might* be able to offset the main drain, essentially flip sides of the closet out and wye in that exists right now, and the main drain but it's going to be a lot more work and a little dodgy with some of the other constraints in the plumbing and framing right now. I measured the distance from my main drain uppermost part of the pipe going up to the subfloor and it's about 3". Which seems quite shallow for a combo, or a wye and 1/8 solution. What could I tie in with here? (I know the Sanitee is not ok here). Home is in NH.
    Right now the closet flange has a very short 3" section in a wye on it's side that goes into the side of the main drain.

    My house was a small 1000 sq ft ranch (with full height basement for easy under access), that had a huge garage added to it, with a 6' x 24' connector 'dead space' as I call it. The space connects garage to house and is all framed and roofed but not finished and empty. I want to make new home entrance there, and thereby re-do my kitchen and relocate it somewhat with new island cooktop etc...

    What I need to do it this, move the toilet at least 8" ( I have what I've measured as a 24" wall space now that I want to cram a 32" door into).
    There is the home main vent in that wall which I'll also have to move, the cold water toilet supply, and the closet flange.

    I have 2' x 8' nominal floor joists in the house on 16" center (7" actual). There is already a cut out area around my toilet where the joists were cut and boxed out for one joist, so I've got a 32" box essentially to move things around in.
    If I move the closet flange or toilet out all the way to the far side of that 32" opening right up against the joist, I can move it laterally 8".
    The toilet has standard 12" rough in. I mocked up 3 views of the house on Adobe InDesign with current plumbing and desired plumbing routes I can jpg and upload here if helpful (that was my initial plan - to have those ready for scrutiny).
    I could also switch to a 10" rough in toilet to gain another 2". And what about these toilets that have the rough in all the way at the back? Or a wall mount model?Crazy ideas? (I may need it once I start demolishing my wall for a door - door needs to be minimum 32" width for code legal garage entrance. I have a 36" front home entrance already, and (2) 36" french door openings so I am covered for a full size main door for code there already).

    One bathroom only for whole house. One toilet. Main vent is 3" that is located within 5-6' of toilet.
    Name:  toilet flange nh.jpg
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    So in this attached pic, this is plumbing as it exists right now.
    Vertical line on right is main 3" DWV pipe for house. Current toilet out on left. I want to put the toilet drain directly over it somehow if that's possible. If there's a way, that's going to be the best solution. Can I use a 3" x 3" x 3" spigot closet bend or something like that?
    Last edited by zx6e; 10-31-2012 at 02:16 PM. Reason: attached pic and more info

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