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Thread: Replacing submerged well pump soon have some questions

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member bjorkmae's Avatar
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    Question Replacing submerged well pump soon have some questions

    Please help with suggestions on a good replacement submersible pump.

    Details:
    Well was dug in 1979.
    Pump was last replaced 12/7/93 notes say its a 1/2 horsepower pump set at 87' on pvc, I don't know the brand or any other specifications, its a 19 year old pump.
    Well is 110' deep, water is at 40'.
    6" steel well casing.
    Its a 2 wire 220 volt pump with no control box and just a basic on/off pressure 40/60psi.
    Expansion tank was replaced 04/06/04 and it a Well-X-Trol model WX-203, its a 32 gallon expansion tank.
    I made a T-handle type pump pulling tool out of 1" galvanized pipe and test fitted it on the pitless adapter, I assume this means I have 1" piping.
    Our water is treated with a Iron curtain and water softener after the pressure tank.
    Supports a family of 4 water needs.

    My plan:
    I plan on replacing the pump soon because it pops the breaker when watering the lawn for half an hour or more and I think that is a warning sign that its wearing out.
    I plan on replacing the pressure switch because it shuts off at 65 psi and turns on at 36psi but it says its rated for 40-60 psi.
    I plan on replacing the faucet between the pump and expansion tank in the basement, because it barely flows when turned on and won't completely shut off, I suspect this is due to contaminants.
    I plan on replacing the pressure gauge as it reads about 4 psi even when there is no pressure when I have turned the pump off and all faucets have stopped flowing including in the basement.
    I plan on replacing the PVC pipe supporting the pump with poly rated for 160psi.

    What is a suitable replacement pump model that is reliable and cost effective?
    Should I go ahead and replace my expansion tank now too? If so should I keep the same size, there is not room for anything much bigger unless its taller.
    Also I get bursts of air from the outside faucets every few minutes, I suspect the snifter valve wasn't removed when they upgraded from a bladder less expansion tank to the bladder type tank, does this sound plausible?
    Should I replace the pitless adapter O-ring or should I just keep the original?

    Thank you in advance for your help.
    Last edited by bjorkmae; 10-28-2012 at 12:53 PM.

  2. #2
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    1” pitless handle could still be 1.25” pipe below. Gauge reads 4 PSI high, so pressure switch is still 40/60. Can’t get taller tank with same OD as that WX203. But you could replace it with a PK1A or PK1W Pside-Kick that will reduce the cycling of the pump even though it uses a smaller, 4.5 gallon tank. Cycling is what caused the wear the pump has now, and also what is causing the breaker to pop when running a sprinkler.

    HP, 10 GPM, 2 wire pumps are a dime a dozen. Even box store brands won’t be much different than any others. Your not going to find any of them that are made to last 19 years any more. Just have to reduce the cycling to make them last as long as possible.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member bjorkmae's Avatar
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    Thanks for the response and information. I will definately look into the tanks you suggested. Also are you saying I should go ahead and replace the WX203? So basically any 1/2 hp 10gpm 2 wire pump will last just as long as another? So getting a gould pump vs what they have at Mennards won't matter? The Mennards ones are about $150 cheaper. Also any info on the o-ring for the pitless adapter, should it be replaced are they standard sizes or lots of options?
    Last edited by bjorkmae; 10-28-2012 at 01:57 PM.

  4. #4
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjorkmae View Post
    I plan on replacing the faucet between the pump and expansion tank...
    What is called a "faucet" is between the plumbing and you. What you have there is a valve but I don't know why it is there and doubt you have a need for it. Accidentally turning it off will deadhead the pump.

    The O-ring on the pitless should be left alone if it is not leaking. The snifter and bleeder should both be removed.

    The tank could be replaced at any time. Adding a CSV could extend the life of the current tank for years to come.

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