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Thread: media guard kdf 55 good or bad?

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    DIY Junior Member sss's Avatar
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    Default media guard kdf 55 good or bad?

    I have been doing some research and I have got some mixed responses about the media guard kdf 55 (chlorine remover) what is the truth should this be installed in a softener or not?

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    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Worked with some thing much like media guard thing on the distributor just under the valve that had the kdf in it years ago and the pressure loss and flow lose had the customer asking for it to be removed asap..... never used that idea again.
    KDF 55 is great for the removal of chlorine from the water but it would be better used in its own tank with its own valve for back washing.

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    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    I agree and IMO carbon/charcoal is a much better choice to remove chlorine. It is much less expensive and doesn't require the high gpm backwash that KDF does. But then I'm not a fan of removing chlorine on a whole house basis when you are on a 'city' water system.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The media guard using KDF-55 is an excellent product when applied correctly. KDF has a unique ability to remove chlorine in large volumes for extended periods of time as well as heavy metals removal. The media guard must be applied correctly to function properly.

    It should be used on smaller houses, no more than 2 bathrooms.
    The DLFC must be changed and sized correctly. a 4-5 GPM is ideal, regardless of the tank size. The backwash is for the media guard, not the softener.
    The softener should be sized to regenerate weekly.
    It should be changed every 3 years.

    If these steps are followed, the media guard is one of the better innovations in the water industry in thepast couple of decades. If these steps are not followed, it will have problems.

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    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    How about listing the problems that are created with regenerating a small softener with that high a gpm.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
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    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Sure,
    There is no problem when the media guard is installed. The media guard seperates the backwash into the four chambers seperately and the fine slots do not create any problem with the resin. The backwash rate is for the KDF media guard, not for the resin. The resin will get backwashed just fine. The real problem with the media guards in the past is that people installed them without the higher backwash rate which would cause the KDF to turn into a chunk of cement and would restrict or cut off flow to the house.

    Hope this helps,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    I agree and IMO carbon/charcoal is a much better choice to remove chlorine. It is much less expensive and doesn't require the high gpm backwash that KDF does. But then I'm not a fan of removing chlorine on a whole house basis when you are on a 'city' water system.
    What about bacteria and algae growth in the carbon? I have a whole house chlorine removal system with a back washing carbon and a media guard. 1.5 cu. ft. of carbon 4 sections on the media guard. It worked great when it was working, but my problem is we had swampy water come through the town system a while back and after it had cleared up everywhere else mine continued. I'm guessing what ever it was is now growing in the carbon. So I take it apart and the media guard is not attached to the meter head. It's seem to be a very flimsy connection with thin plastic so I am assuming the kdf got plugged up and caused enough presser to pop off the media guard. Very poor set up in my opinion. Took apart the media guard and it was definitely clumped and hard. Who knows how long the media guard was on there. The carbon is still removing chlorine but not so sure the swampy tasting water is a good thing to be drinking. maybe just a smaller amount of carbon and change it every year or when something contaminates it would be the better Idea?

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    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    The best idea is to not remove the chlorine unless you do so at the shower head or kitchen sink and not to use a media that provides a great place for bacteria growth like carbon.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I highly recommend whole house carbon. Considering the number of organic chemicals GAC can remove. It is inexpensive, and in a backwashing application, the small amounts of chlorine keep the system relatively clean. All water will have some form of bio growth. Replacing the carbon every few years will keep everything just fine. It sounds like the city supply had a major malfunction and that would suggest that your filtration medias should be replaced, and the equipment should be properly sanitized during the media replacement.

    As to the KDF, it is a common problem for companies and DIY types to not adjust the BLFC to a proper rate accounting for water temperature. In general, the DLFC must be between 4 and 5 GPM regardless of tank size. you are adjusting the backwash for the media guard, not for the resin. if the DLFC is correct, the KDF can last for many years. The media guard is fairly fragile, but when seviced correctly, it is fairly easy to replace.

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