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Thread: Bathtub plumbing layout

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    DIY Junior Member eodschulte's Avatar
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    Default Bathtub plumbing layout

    I was hoping someone could look at this and see if it passes the "giggle test." I am finishing my basement and had to make provisions for a vent since the length of pipe (2" diameter) running under the slab is more than than 5 feet (I'm in South Dakota and they follow the UPC.) I realize the trap is a little higher than the drain right now; I will lower that down when I go to glue.

    Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

    -Nick-
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    DIY Senior Member kreemoweet's Avatar
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    I,ve been required in the past to use a sweep (long-turn 90) where you have the regular 90 coming off the trap. Also,
    under the UPC, you need a cleanout, and the slip-joint nuts need to remain accessible.

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    DIY Junior Member eodschulte's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply!

    From what I read, I thought a medium 90 was sufficient since I wasn't changing elevation direction at all (such as going from horizontal to vertical.) The med 90 is in the same plane as the trap arm and the drain line itself.

    I must of read something wrong somewhere else because I thought a cleanout was required if there was more than 90 degrees (on a 2" line) bend after the trap arm.

    This whole area will remain accessible since the backside of this tub wall will be in a bedroom closet.

    Any other opinions out there on what can be done better?

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    DIY Junior Member eodschulte's Avatar
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    I think i see what you're referring to as far as the long sweep 90:

    706.3 Horizontal drainage lines connecting with other horizontal drainage lines shall enter through 45 degree (0.79 rad) wye branches, combination wye and one-eighth (1/8) bend branches, or other approved fittings of equivalent sweep.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; under the UPC, you need a cleanout, and the slip-joint nuts need to remain accessible

    If that were true, then there are "millions" of tubs installed "illegally". The cleanout, if needed, is usually on the vertical riser the drain connects to, and I have NEVER made provision to access any slip joint nuts on a tub drain. When there are a tub and shower "back to back" it would be impossible anyway. But, I would never use a sch. 40 "P" trap with a union nut in any case, or anywhere. It appears that the "Y" could have been moved back and the "P" trap attached to it, rather than use the elbow.
    Last edited by hj; 10-15-2012 at 08:57 AM.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member eodschulte's Avatar
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    So you wouldn't use this type of p-trap? What are the disadvantages over a standard one that gets glued (besides the slight price difference)?

    I tried to not use the elbow but I couldn't get it all to line up right. Also, I was worried about the minimum distance (4") required between the trap and the vent.

    Thanks again for the reply.

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