(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Ultramax Install over poor flooringl installation...Pics

  1. #1
    DIY Member tesla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    DFW (Garland), TX
    Posts
    30

    Default Ultramax Install over poor flooringl installation...Pics

    Ultramax II base is longer and narrower than the one it replaces. Fake wood was installed around the toilet so that the toilet sits on the concrete inside of the flooring. The front edge of the base is right on top of the edge of the wood floor and there are gaps on the sides. The back 2-3 inches of the base sits squarely on the wood. I need to fill this cavity up with something for aesthetics and stability of the toilet. I may replace the floor with ceramic tile as much of the wood around the toilet is water damaged. Any ideas?

    Also, will I need 2 wax rings or an extra large one for this since the flange is on the concrete? I have an extra large with horn.

    Toilet pictures are dry fit without wax.





    Last edited by tesla; 10-12-2012 at 11:39 AM.

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,172

    Default

    Rip up the cheap fake wood and do it properly?

  3. #3
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Either get the larger base Soiree, or replace the flooring.

    Flooring is installed around the flange, not the bowl.

  4. #4
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Yakima WA
    Posts
    7,246

    Default

    Laminate floors are not recommended for bathrooms. They do not tolerate water under them. If you decide to keep the laminate flooring, then it should not be too hard to find matching flooring that could fill in the void. If you do this, then caulk all the way around the toilet to prevent spilled water from getting under the toilet and then under the flooring. A wider based toilet as Terry suggests would also be a good option, and replacing the laminate with tile the best way to go albeit expensive. As far as the wax ring question, two rings probably would be needed. I would suggest using a plain ring (no horn.funnel) on the flange and a horned ring on top of that. You might also consider using a waxless seal instead.

  5. #5
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,412

    Default

    If you only want it to function, my suggestion would be to cut enough of the laminate out so that the entire toilet can sit on the concrete. You'd have the gaps, but you should be able to make it stable and leak-free until you decide to replace the flooring. You might find that some colored caulk could fill in enough of the gaps to the flooring to make it look okay for the interim.

    You could probably use a router in place to do this or possible one of those oscillating saws (like the Fein) to cut it. With the concrete underneath there, you might go through a few blades. If you used a router, you'd want to set the depth to just under the depth of the floor, then a utility knife should get through the rest. This would preserve the router bit although a carbide one might survive.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  6. #6
    DIY Member tesla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    DFW (Garland), TX
    Posts
    30

    Default

    I'll probably replace the flooring at some point but right now I need a functional toilet without a lot of cutting, etc. Seems I read somewhere that Terry or someone talked about removing toilets that had been mortared to the floor. What about that as a temporary fix until I get a new floor installed? Possibly some thinset or mortar with waxpaper on the floor and between the toilet for easy removal? I need it more for the front of the toilet where the base is on the edge of the wood flooring.

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,172

    Default

    Why create more work for nothing w/ mortar?

    Cut the flooring so your toilet sits properly DONE.

  8. #8
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Yakima WA
    Posts
    7,246

    Default

    A sharp chisel work cut clean enough to allow the toilet to fit. You don't need to have a perfect fit, a little gap would fill in easily with caulk. I'd buy an inexpensive chisel and since you'll be hitting the concrete often, just sacrifice it on this job. May want a couple of them, one perhaps 1" and one 1/4" for the curves. If you have a bench grinder, you can touch up the edges a bit if necessary. I'd still recommend a new floor soon.

  9. #9
    DIY Member tesla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    DFW (Garland), TX
    Posts
    30

    Default

    I wound up using a hammer and screwdriver and pulled out enough wood for it to set on the concrete. Since we plan on replacing the floor anyway, I didn't need to do it carefully. However its ugly enough to put some kind of toilet skirt around it to cover up the big ugly gaps.

    By the way, the Ultramax II works flawlessly and looks very elegant. Wifey is going to love it.

    Thanks for everyones help.

    Barry

  10. #10
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    When you do the new flooring, remember to pull the toilet, install the floor and reinstall the toilet.

    Then she will really be loving it!

  11. #11
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    1,591

    Default

    Congratulations! I'm glad that you got it installed and that you're happy with it! I agree it is a most-elegant fixture.

  12. #12
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Yakima WA
    Posts
    7,246

    Default

    Tesla, you took my cheap chisel suggestion to the 9th degree! Whatever works, and do keep Terry's comments about pulling the toilet when installing the new floor. You flange looks in great condition, but it will be below the finished floor so either a thicker wax ring, 2 wax rings, or extension rings will be need so the toilet will set properly.

Similar Threads

  1. Kohler overflow installation question w/ pics...ASAP please!
    By zubz in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-14-2010, 07:13 PM
  2. Toto Ultramax installation advice please
    By pmcewan27 in forum Toilet Forum discussions
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-05-2010, 06:47 PM
  3. new boiler and indirect install w/pics
    By CtSebby in forum Boiler Forum
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-25-2009, 05:32 PM
  4. poor pedestal sink install??
    By sox04 in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-16-2008, 07:05 AM
  5. Correcting a poor tub installation
    By David_Roessler in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-14-2005, 05:02 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •