Sioux Chief makes a better flange for that purpose. It's cut straight instead of having the flare to it.
I am tiling my bathroom floor and wanted to see how the flange would sit and notch for the screws. The plumber left a 3" diameter riser sticking out of the floor, not yet glued, which comes out of the toilet bend. The flange I bought if placed over the 3" pipe bottoms out on the bend before touching the tile, leaving it about 3/8" off the tile. Is there a flange that could go into the hub on the bend and if so, am I looking for it to bottom out in the hub or is there some height adjustment? I would have posted a pick, but i don't think the site is ipad friendly. hanks for your help.
Also, keep in mind that dry fitting pvc pipe often doesn't work...the hub is tapered, so it is very difficult to impossible to bottom the pipe out in the fitting when trying to dry fit...you need to carefully measure. The cement melts the pipe and hub so it can fit when you assembly it for good. You want the pipe to bottom out in the hub and if you cut it to the dry fit measurement, it will end up short, potentially making a poor connection, or having it in the wrong position.
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer
Thanks for your help gentleman. I have attached a picture of what I have. The flange that I have doesn't appear to be tapered in any way as Terry suggested. The issue I am having is that if I put the flange over the stub out, it hits the elbow hub before resting on the finished floor. It would be about 3/8" too high if I were to glue everything up right now. If I could cut a 1/2" off that collar that goes over the pipe then it would sit flush on the floor, or is there a better alternative?
Last edited by Rmundo; 10-10-2012 at 12:55 PM.
Thanks Terry. I did not know if it would affect anything by cutting that collar shorter, or if there was a different flange for this situation. But if that is how a 38 year veteran plumber would do it, so will I!