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Thread: WS-1 with Hard Water and High Brine Level.

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member cggutierrez's Avatar
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    Default WS-1 with Hard Water and High Brine Level.

    Hi Guys,

    I have a water softener with a Clack WS-1 control valve. I installed it in 2009 and it has been working fine till a few weeks back when I noticed the shower glass panels were getting hard water stains. Checked the water and it tested hard. Checked the brine tank, there's salt but the brine level was higher than usual. Regenerated the system manually and observed it go through the cycles. The brine level did not go down at all throughout the brine cycle, and it did not rise after the refill cycle. Disconnected the fill tube and again manually regenerated the system. Backwash cycle, some water came out of the fill tube for a few second and then stopped. Brine cycle, water came out of the fill tube and did not stop. There was considerable pressure when I tried to stop the flow with my thumb at the end of the tube.Waited about 30 seconds to verify no suction before switching to the next cycles. Rinse and Backwash cycles, water from the fill tube for a few seconds then stopped. Fill cycle, water from fill tube and it did not stop till I switched to next cycle. Service cycle, water from fill tube for a few seconds and then it stopped. I'm thinking maybe the drain is blocked. Put the drain tube to discharge into a drum and manually regenerated. There was a steady stream coming from the drain tube, and seemed to be unimpeded. Switched through the cycles and the drain flow seemed to match the cycle. However, the fill tube had water coming out of it in the brine cycle and behaved the same as previously observed. At the service cycle, some water was coming out of the drain tube. It was not a stream, but a steady drip of water that did not stop. I reconnected the drain tube to drains and watched the clear tube fill up with water. I guess there's something leaking inside and probably preventing suction at the fill tube. Checked the injector, strainer and dfc washer, they seem to be ok. While trying to isolate via the bypass, I found out the bypass was leaking. The o-ring on the inlet side somehow got pinched was no longer sealing.

    Can anyone help me with diagnosing what's going on and figuring out which parts need to be replaced? Also, can I order the parts online and from whom?

  2. #2
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    It sounds as if you need a new stack and pistons.

    You should go back to where you bought it for the parts unless the person is not in business, then you go back to Clack and ask them where to get parts. Otherwise you aren't supposed to be able to buy the valve or its parts online since 6/2010.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    Have you checked the venturi? A lot of times the venturi can get a piece of debris stuck in it and cause the problem you describe. Remove the venturi, hold it up to the sky and look through it. You should see a perfect circle of light blue. Any obstruction will be noticed. If there is something obstrcuting it, use something that will not scratch the inside like a needle. I use a straw from a broom or something simular. Do not force anything inside the venturi. If you need parts, I can supply them.

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member cggutierrez's Avatar
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    I think you're right Gary, about the stack and pistons. I'm going to check those tonight and also the corresponding part numbers for them and any other part that might need to be replaced to reassemble the valve.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member cggutierrez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mialynette2003 View Post
    Have you checked the venturi? A lot of times the venturi can get a piece of debris stuck in it and cause the problem you describe. Remove the venturi, hold it up to the sky and look through it. You should see a perfect circle of light blue. Any obstruction will be noticed. If there is something obstrcuting it, use something that will not scratch the inside like a needle. I use a straw from a broom or something simular. Do not force anything inside the venturi. If you need parts, I can supply them.
    I checked the venturi/injector and strainer, they are both clean and clear. I'm going to check the stack, pistons and seals that need to be replaced. How do I get in touch with you for the details?

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    I sent you a private message with my e-mail address.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member cggutierrez's Avatar
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    You are right Gary, the stack has a torn seal midway thru the assembly. Piston has some scouring, so it needs to be replaced as well. Guess I better replace the regenerant piston too. Time to order the parts!

  8. #8
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Yes you need a stack and complete piston; that includes the brine piston and the main piston. Never replace just a stack or piston(s) without the other part also.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member cggutierrez's Avatar
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    At last, I got some time out a few days ago and was able to replace the stack and pistons. Now it's operating nicely. Just need to wait for some o-rings to fix the bypass valve. Thanks for the advice guys!

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