(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Wiring Bathroom Fan

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member jsarin1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Naperville, IL
    Posts
    21

    Default Wiring Bathroom Fan

    Can someone explain how to wire a bathroom fan using the wiring from a standard outlet? Attached is a photo of the outlet's wiring.

    Name:  IMG_5444.JPG
Views: 1370
Size:  83.2 KB

    I believe the clump of white wires together is neutral and the black is hot. There are also a blue, red, and another white that connect in the box that I believe are for rooms above this 1/2 bath.

    I plan on running the wiring behind a chair rail molding around the room to its own switch.
    I thought of wiring it straight to an overhead light in this room, but I rather have it work with its own switch and not turn on with the light...

    The fan is a simple duct-less Broan that has a black and a white wire. No light, warmer, etc.

    Any advice is appreciated.

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,172

    Default

    You're in way over your head.

    You CANNOT run the wiring inside the chair rail, where have you ever seen that done before?

    What good is a fan that has no duct to exhaust the warm moist air outside?

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member jsarin1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Naperville, IL
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Looks like according to code, I need to use metal conduit to run the wiring. I can install the conduit behind a crown molding as long as it has 1 1/2 in. from surface of the molding. I'll be doing this instead.

    Can you help with the wiring part of this?

  4. #4
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,388

    Default

    Are you tearing out that box and making it a double to include a new switch? Or what?

    Basically, run a 12/2 wire up there (12g, if this is on a 20A circuit is required), connect black to black, white to white, and ground to ground at the fan. Then, in the box, add the white to the bundle. Use a short pigtail from the black feeding the receptacle to one side of the new switch, and the black from the new wire you ran to the other terminal of the switch, and tie all of the ground together...essentially, you switch the hot lead, and run the neutral directly there.
    Last edited by jadnashua; 10-04-2012 at 08:25 PM. Reason: brain fart directed fingers wrong....
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,617

    Default

    20/2??????? That is not even a lamp wire, not for a fan circuit, and definitely NOT for a 20amp circuit!!!!!!!!
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,172

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Are you tearing out that box and making it a double to include a new switch? Or what?

    Basically, run a 20/2 wire up there (20g, if this is on a 20A circuit is required), connect black to black, white to white, and ground to ground at the fan. Then, in the box, add the white to the bundle. Use a short pigtail from the black feeding the receptacle to one side of the new switch, and the black from the new wire you ran to the other terminal of the switch, and tie all of the ground together...essentially, you switch the hot lead, and run the neutral directly there.
    Jim meant 12/2, not 20/2.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member Glennsparky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Oviedo, FL near Orlando
    Posts
    22

    Default

    That existing box the GFCI receptacle is in is too small. Do not add wires to it until you replace it with the correct size box. You have no bare or green wire for ground. Hopefully the metal electric pipes are your ground, but I don't trust them. So, it would be much safer to take power from the load side of the GFCI. Metal conduit is not required by the National Code, is it a local code?
    Last edited by Glennsparky; 10-04-2012 at 09:43 PM.

  8. #8
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,172

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Glennsparky View Post
    That existing box the GFCI receptacle is in is too small. Do not add wires to it until you replce it with the correct size box. You have no bare or green wire for ground. Hopefully the metal electric pipes are your ground, but I don't trust them. So, it would be much safer to take power from the load side of the GFCI. Metal conduit is not required by the National Code, is it a local code?
    You're an electrician that doesn't trust bonding of metal components? Really?

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member jsarin1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Naperville, IL
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Are you tearing out that box and making it a double to include a new switch? Or what?

    Basically, run a 12/2 wire up there (12g, if this is on a 20A circuit is required), connect black to black, white to white, and ground to ground at the fan. Then, in the box, add the white to the bundle. Use a short pigtail from the black feeding the receptacle to one side of the new switch, and the black from the new wire you ran to the other terminal of the switch, and tie all of the ground together...essentially, you switch the hot lead, and run the neutral directly there.
    Jim,

    Thanks for the reply. That setup works perfectly, just what I needed.
    Also it looks like I'm scrapping the crown molding idea and boring my studs instead.

    Thanks again all.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member Glennsparky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Oviedo, FL near Orlando
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dlarrivee View Post
    You're an electrician that doesn't trust bonding of metal components? Really?
    I don't trust old houses with obvious code violations (box fill) and who knows how much hack work upstream. I might trust my multitester, if I were there to test the ground.
    Last edited by Glennsparky; 10-04-2012 at 09:41 PM.

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member Glennsparky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Oviedo, FL near Orlando
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Are you tearing out that box and making it a double to include a new switch? Or what?

    Basically, run a 12/2 wire up there (12g, if this is on a 20A circuit is required), connect black to black, white to white, and ground to ground at the fan. Then, in the box, add the white to the bundle. Use a short pigtail from the black feeding the receptacle to one side of the new switch, and the black from the new wire you ran to the other terminal of the switch, and tie all of the ground together...essentially, you switch the hot lead, and run the neutral directly there.
    Ok, I count 13 existing #12 wires. With two devices, an additional 12-2 w/g and one internal romex clamp, that needs 45 cubic inches of volume. Please, buy your new double gang box with at least 45 cubic inches stamped on it. And the GFCI tweak would be ... The short black wire from the switch goes to the hot screw, load side of the receptacle. Not pigtailed to the black feeding the receptacle. The white from the new 12-2w/g goes to the white/neutral screw of the load side of the receptacle. Not the bundle. The bare wire in the 12-2w/g goes under a green screw in the new metal box. Good luck.

  12. #12
    Electrician ActionDave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    326

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Glennsparky View Post
    Ok, I count 13 existing #12 wires. With two devices, an additional 12-2 w/g and one internal romex clamp.....
    The work is done using conduit. There is not any romex or romex clamps to be found in the photo.

    I can't tell how many wires are in that box. It doesn't look like thirteen to me.

  13. #13
    DIY Junior Member Glennsparky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Oviedo, FL near Orlando
    Posts
    22

    Default

    In post #9, jsarin1 decided how to do the future work. My post is about that new work. Not the picture. Jsarin1 can count the wires, and let me know if I'm way off.

  14. #14
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    2,523

    Default

    Clamp or no clamp the box is overfilled as it now stands and no other conductor should be added.

Similar Threads

  1. wiring in bathroom
    By web_surfer in forum Electrical Forum discussion & Blog
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-31-2009, 08:40 PM
  2. bathroom wiring; one circuit?
    By thegallery in forum Remodel Forum & Blog
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-28-2008, 09:11 PM
  3. Wiring Diagram for Bathroom
    By nelsonba in forum Electrical Forum discussion & Blog
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-03-2007, 08:28 PM
  4. Bathroom and Closet Wiring
    By nelsonba in forum Electrical Forum discussion & Blog
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-06-2007, 09:22 PM
  5. Bathroom Vent Wiring
    By molo in forum Electrical Forum discussion & Blog
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-17-2007, 05:04 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •