wisconsin cabin well

**trapman1** · 10-01-2012, 01:54 PM

About 7 years ago we had a well drilled at our cabin in Wisconsin. I believe it is about 120 feed deep. The pump installed was a 3/4 HP 10P Sta-Rite Signature 2000 with motor model 2145079004. For about 5 years we only had a faucet on a pipe next to the well casing. When we would turn off power to the pump you could hear air being sucked down the open faucet.

Two years ago we finally added on the bathroom and kitchen to the cabin. My questions involves check valves and bleeders and winterizing the system.

1. Is the only way you can tell if check valves and a bleeder are installed is to pull the pipe/pump up from the pitless adapter? I think the Sta-Rite pump has an installed check valve and I know the list of parts that were purchased from a pump and plumbing place listed a 1" bleeder and a 1 1/4" check valve.

2. The pressure tank we have installed is a Flotec precharged FP7110T. The instructions show that plugs should be installed in any bleeders. What are the ramifications if a bleeder is still in the system?

3. For the last two years we have had water in the cabin. We have winterized by draining the hot water heater and pressure tank and used a wet vacuum to suck up the water in the toilet tank and out the pipes as best we could. We then put RV antifreeze in the traps. We did have a shower water pipe split last winter when I apparently didn't get all the water out of it. This year we want to use a compressor to blow out the pipes. Is there any special method or placement of the fitting so we don't damage anything (pressure tank, ????).

Thanks for any help.

Trapman

**craigpump** · 10-01-2012, 02:29 PM

You shouldn't be using a bladder style tank with a bleeder system, you should have a hydro pneumatic tank with an air volume control to eliminate the excess air. If you are going to use that bladder tank, you need to remove the bleeder in the well.

We don't use Sta Rites, but I believe they come with a check valve built into the discharge head of the wet end.

The easy way to determine if there is a bleeder is to see if the system draws vacuum when the pump is shut off, which apparently it does based on your first paragraph.

**valveman** · 10-02-2012, 05:20 AM

We use bleeders with bladder tanks all the time. Just don't put in a check valve after the bleeder. Without a check valve up top the bleeder stays closed and you won't get any air in the system. But when you want to drain the system, just turn off the pump and open a faucet(s). When the tank empties the bleeder will open and let the water drain back to that point. We use this system for weekend cabins that need to be drained quickly and often.

**craigpump** · 10-03-2012, 04:48 PM

I can see how that would work, the line pressure holds the flap closed..... learn something new every day

**valveman** · 10-04-2012, 05:24 AM

Yep, works good. Just use a brass bleeder instead of a rubber bleader when using it with a CSV. Thanks to other pump installers like you, I have been learning something new everday for decades. The Internet is great. Stuff like this use to go to the grave with the pump man. Now it is available for anyone who knows how to search the Net.

**trapman1** · 10-04-2012, 07:00 AM

Thanks for answering my question on bleeders/checkvalves. I think that explains why we haven't had problems with freezing the pipe from the pitless adapter up into the cabin during the winter.

Any thoughts on where in the line we should install a fitting so we can blow out all the pipes with a compressor (without damaging the precharged pressure tank)?
Should we just hook it up to the drain on the hot water heater?

Thanks again for any information.

Trapman

**valveman** · 10-04-2012, 01:21 PM

You are not going to hurt the pressure tank as long as you have some lines open so it doesn't build pressure. I use a valve stem from a tubeless tire, and hold it against all the faucets, one at a time, to blow the lines out.