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Thread: Irrigation Well Pump Stop Working After Breaker Jumped - Please Help.

  1. #31
    DIY Senior Member VAWellDriller's Avatar
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    Try only 1 head and see what happens. Check the pump curve and remember that you'll only see 50 psi if your demand is less than the pump capacity.

  2. #32
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tpham2001 View Post
    Hi all,
    Finally got the motor, csv1w (50 psi); installed it yesterday. We ran the pump to pressurize the tank to 60 psi. This morning pressure at tank dropped to 50 psi.

    Cut the power to the pump, empty the tank and checked the pressure in the tank again and its reading 20 psi. This is the result from using pressure guage from Lowes, the reading were way off. Brought tank pressure back to 38 psi, ran the pump and brought the pressure back up to 60 psi.

    Here is the issue...
    Test the sprinkler zone with 5 rotating heads, pressure at tank drop from 60 psi to 40 psi, then 32 psi and holding steady at 20 psi. My question is what happen to all the pressure in the tank? With csv1w(50 psi) in place (before pressure releave valve) I should have 50 psi in the tank, correct? I'm losing pressure and I don't know where to look. Any suggestion?

    Thanks,
    Twin
    Where you running the same 5 rotating heads before adding the CSV?

  3. #33
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    VAWellDriller,
    How do I go about running one head with the rest of the heads off? I don't have pump curve, but I think I can google it.

    Thank-you,
    Twin

  4. #34
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    valveman,
    Yes, I ran same 5 rotating heads before adding CSV and I got good overlap between the heads. With 20 psi, my overlap decreased more than 1/2.

    This is my set up for each zone.

    zone 1 - 9 heads for shrubs
    zone 2 - 5 rotating heads for front lawn
    zone 3 - 4 rotating heads for back lawn
    zone 4 - 15 heads for shrubs.

    Zone 2 held steady @ 20 psi; tomorrow I'll test the remaining zone and see what psi is for each zone.

    Thank-you for the responses,
    Twin

  5. #35
    DIY Junior Member greenmonster304's Avatar
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    Sounds like your system uses about 15 gpm. Thst csv has about 15 psi of loss. If your system was marginal to begin with lossing 15 lbs off the top would give you really crappy pressure at the heads. A plastic csv may have been a bettet choice as the loss is much lower.

  6. #36
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenmonster304 View Post
    with lossing 15 lbs off the top would give you really crappy pressure at the heads.
    Hi All,
    I did not get a chance to do the remaining zones test; but from what I saw the other day, zone 4 with 15 heads for the shrubs were really sad. Some of the heads didn't even have water. I did some search but couldn't find the pump curve, the original pump was rated at 25 gpm for depth between 70-125 feet. Currently, the pump is at 60-65 feet plus another (+/-)20 feet to the pressure tank. I shouldn't be losing that much pressure but I am.

    Here is my train of thought on the system as a whole; remove the CSV and the pressure tank from the system and let the irrigation control box turn on/off the pump as required. Yes/no, doable or stupid idea?

    Thanks again for the response,
    Twin

  7. #37
    DIY Senior Member VAWellDriller's Avatar
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    Why don't you start by removing the CSV and see what happens? The pump you have won't tolerate much head loss without a great reduction in flow. The correct info for the well would be helpful as well, one post you say the well is 40 feet deep, this one you say the pump is set 60-65'. The pump you have is a VERY Low head pump, and knowing the pumping level in the well would help diagnose this problem. Brand new, this pump will only make 65psi at 60' depth. It would be best to keep the tank in the system, and with a higher switch setting like 45/65, you can probably keep out all the cycling.
    I like CSV's and install one on every residential well that I drill, usually use the plastic CSV1, since it is not adjustable and the homeowner can't screw it up after I leave. After greenmonsters's post, I looked at the pressure loss tables for the CSV brass valves, and was shocked how high it was. This is probably the problem.

  8. #38
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    As VAwelldriller said, that pump may produce 25 GPM, but it is a low head pump that can’t makeup for the pressure losses in that particular CSV. The plastic CSV1 valves do not have that kind of loss. You will either need to reduce the number of heads you run at one time, change to a CSV1 style valve, or you need a bigger pump.

    That is more pressure loss than I would have expected, so you also need to make sure you do not have a hole in the pipe somewhere.

  9. #39
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAWellDriller View Post
    Why don't you start by removing the CSV and see what happens? The pump you have won't tolerate much head loss without a great reduction in flow. The correct info for the well would be helpful as well, one post you say the well is 40 feet deep, this one you say the pump is set 60-65'. The pump you have is a VERY Low head pump, and knowing the pumping level in the well would help diagnose this problem. Brand new, this pump will only make 65psi at 60' depth. It would be best to keep the tank in the system, and with a higher switch setting like 45/65, you can probably keep out all the cycling.
    I like CSV's and install one on every residential well that I drill, usually use the plastic CSV1, since it is not adjustable and the homeowner can't screw it up after I leave. After greenmonsters's post, I looked at the pressure loss tables for the CSV brass valves, and was shocked how high it was. This is probably the problem.
    VAWellDriller,
    This is somewhat confusing to me and its my first time around the rodeo. When we first pulled the pump, I just start cutting sections as we pulled. So I don't know exactly the length of pipe were used. The only thing I have to go on is the down wire; when we lower the pump again I added 10' section till I have enough down wire to connect at the junction box. When all said and done, I used a bundle (5) 10' section and another 8'. Regardless of what CSV I used, once it in and down in the well; there is no way I'll be messing around with it.

    I plan to remove the CSV valve and leave the system the way is was and go with higher setting as you suggested. One more question, do you install check valve in your system? If you do, where do you place it?

    Thanks,
    Twin

  10. #40
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    How far "down the well" did you install the CSV? You will lose 1 PSI for every 2.31 feet the CSV is set below ground level.

  11. #41
    DIY Senior Member VAWellDriller's Avatar
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    Check valve on the pump discharge is enough.

  12. #42
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by valveman View Post
    How far "down the well" did you install the CSV? You will lose 1 PSI for every 2.31 feet the CSV is set below ground level.
    Valveman,
    The CSV is 18' down. New plan, bring the CSV valve up as close as possible to ground level and see what happens.
    Thanks,
    Twin

  13. #43
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Tighten the adjustment screw two full turns to the right while you are raising it.

  14. #44
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by valveman View Post
    Tighten the adjustment screw two full turns to the right while you are raising it.
    Will do, thanks!

  15. #45
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Raising the CSV 18' will add 8 PSI. Increasing the adjusment screw two full turns will increase the pressure another 10 PSI. This should get your zone to work at 38 PSI instead of 20.

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