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Thread: Irrigation Well Pump Stop Working After Breaker Jumped - Please Help.

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'll replace it... Also I looked on Well-X-Trol website, their tank is pre-pressurized @ 38 psi, I checked my tank and it read 20 psi; again, is this normal? Do I need to add pressure and bring it back up to 38 psi? My tank is rated 125 max psi.

  2. #17
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Yeah 38 PSI air is correct for a 40/60 pressure switch. Points burned like that is the first indication of too much cycling on and off. Cycling causes you to need the replace the pressure switch a time or two, then it takes out the bladder in the tank and the pump/motor next.

  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    I replaced PS, flipped the breaker and it tripped immediate. Called local irrigation guy in the area; he checked everything I've already checked. Pulled the pump and its burnt. I need new pump, wiring, piping and fitting. The pump was sitting at 80' +/-... Total price tag is $1000.00,he said with my help he can do it for $800.00. Parts alone would cost him around $500.00. Thoughts?

  4. #19
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Sounds about right, and a good deal. When you get the pump fixed you need to do something to stop the cycling on and off so it doesn't happen again sooner than it should.

  5. #20
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    To the best of my knowledge, this is the P&ID for the well system. From cyclestopvalve.com web site, discharge (sprinkler header) should be after the pressure tank? If you look at the first set of photos, you'll notice one line go to the tank.
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    Here are some photos of the pump.
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    To replace the pump, can I replace the motor or does this comes as one unit.
    I would like to add CSV to the system but not sure where it should go and if I need to relocate the sprinkler header after the tank.

  6. #21
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Yeah there is probably nothing wrong with the pump end. You can just replace the motor. The CSV just needs to go out by the well, before the pressure relief valve. We have valves that actually fit inside the well casing for just such applications.

  7. #22
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    $1000.00 bucks for the pump & motor, new down hole wire, well seal, control box and pressure switch along with labor? Sounds like an outstanding deal to me.

  8. #23
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    But wait, there's more... for $1000.00 I get:

    -New pump and motor, I asked what brand will he installed; he named myers, goulds, etc...
    -New PVC pipe (4 sections max, I counted the fitting on existing line and found two adapters).
    -Probably reused existing down hole wire.
    -Reused existing well seal.
    -No control box.
    -No new Pressure Switch.
    -I have to take a day off work to help.

    Due to the tough economy, he can do it for $800.00 to help me out. I asked if he heard of CSV valve, don't need it because the tank and the pressure switch control the pump. I didn't push the subject.

    Question concerning piping, PVC or Poly? To lower 60' or 80' of PVC pipe seems difficult due to flexibility of the pipe. Thought?
    I'm still looking for motor, any suggestions where to look?
    The motor is Franklin Electric 1 HP, 230V, 8.2 Amp, Single Phase, 2 wire. Model 2445089003

  9. #24
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tpham2001 View Post
    I asked if he heard of CSV valve, don't need it because the tank and the pressure switch control the pump. I didn't push the subject.
    It is a good thing you are here educating yourself on the subject. Some pump men are good at what they do, but many don't have a clue. This one obviously doesn't have a clue. At least his price is discounted to match his understanding of pumps. Just Google "1 HP Franklin motor".

  10. #25
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
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    if he needs 200$ worth of help from homeowner, this guy is in rough shape.. or is pretty lonely. i would charge 200 extra.

  11. #26
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    ...i would charge 200 extra.
    Talk about inflation.

  12. #27
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    I NEVER let a homeowner help.

  13. #28
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    Motor is on ordered...
    Last edited by Tpham2001; 11-15-2012 at 06:03 PM.

  14. #29
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    I've asked about 1-1/14" piping in earlier post, any thought on Poly vs. PVC?
    Also, if PVC is preferred, can I lower each section into the well and as I go along? As mentioned earlier, the depth of the well is approximately 40 ft. Or do I need to connect all the sections required to the pump and lower it down as one continuous pipe? PVC pipe is not very flexible and I'm afraid it will break or crack as I lower it into the well.

    Thanks,

    Twin

  15. #30
    DIY Junior Member Tpham2001's Avatar
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    Hi all,
    Finally got the motor, csv1w (50 psi); installed it yesterday. We ran the pump to pressurize the tank to 60 psi. This morning pressure at tank dropped to 50 psi.

    Cut the power to the pump, empty the tank and checked the pressure in the tank again and its reading 20 psi. This is the result from using pressure guage from Lowes, the reading were way off. Brought tank pressure back to 38 psi, ran the pump and brought the pressure back up to 60 psi.

    Here is the issue...
    Test the sprinkler zone with 5 rotating heads, pressure at tank drop from 60 psi to 40 psi, then 32 psi and holding steady at 20 psi. My question is what happen to all the pressure in the tank? With csv1w(50 psi) in place (before pressure releave valve) I should have 50 psi in the tank, correct? I'm losing pressure and I don't know where to look. Any suggestion?

    Thanks,
    Twin

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