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Thread: Rapid Decrease In Water Pressure After Softener

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  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member NDTransplant's Avatar
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    Default Rapid Decrease In Water Pressure After Softener

    Recently replaced an Autotrol 268L (large body, 1 1/4" distributor tube) with a Autotrol 268 1" (OK, 1.05). I replaced the entire distributor tube, bottom distributor is a fine mesh screen and top distributor that attaches to the valve body is also a fine mesh screen.

    I did not remove the resin from the tank, just removed the old valve, pulled distributor tube out, and stuck new one down inside. Seemed to install fine without any problems.

    Softener is 'softening' the water- went from unsoftened 12 grains down to 2-3 grains, but the problem is when running any tap in any part of the house, hot OR cold water, the water pressure starts out great, but within a minute or two, it drops severely. In fact, had to put the unit back in bypass, because you can't finish taking a shower the water pressure drops so significantly.

    Removed the valve body from the resin tank, the little turbine wheel in the back spins freely, no sediment in the port, injectors and screens all clean, top distributor screen and bottom distributor screen all seem good. Distributor tube is free from obstructions...

    Any ideas on what the heck is causing this rapid reduction in water flow after turning on a faucet? Bypass the softener and everything is great.

  2. #2
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Remove the valve and take a sample of the resin. Use a 1/2" piece of pvc pipe, push it 5" down into the bed, put your thumb over the pipe and remove a 5" core sample. The top of the resin is where you will find the majority of the bad resin if this is the problem. Take some of the resin and try to "squish" it between your thumb and finger. If it is bad, it will have a mushy feel. It should feel hard, almost like round tiny rocks if it is good. If it is mushy, it is bad. This is common in chlorinated water. Replace the resin with a 10% crosslink resin, or replace with standard resin and install a carbon tank in front of the softener. I would recommend adding a carbon tank. Chlorine is important in a municipal supply to keep the distribution system clean, but once you recieve the water, chlorine removal shold be done prior to drinking, or breathing in thee oxidizing agents.

    Do the core sample and let us know what you find. I give it a 95% chance that it is bad resin.

  3. #3
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    ND, it sounds like bad resin but why did you replace the distributor tube?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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