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Thread: H2S, carbon and air input needed

  1. #16
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    I'm about to rebed my carbon filter with Centaur carbon, and have an extra 10x54 tank to use to get it set up, soaked, etc. I obviously can't use the existing bottom basket (if any) and pipe from the controller (a 2510, I think). I'd have to disassemble the running tank to find out how it was set up, and would rather not do that. What sort of bottom basket should I use, and once that's in, how long do I cut off the pipe to mate up with the controller -- even with the top of the tank?

  2. #17
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I recommend the Fleck 40922 bottom screen. This is a high flow, fine screen heavy duty bottom screen. Use 1/10 of a cubic foot of a garnet underbedding (8x12 is common) Assuming it is going into the 2510, the Fleck and Clack valves all go level with the tank. http://www.pentairwatertreatment.com...tributors2.pdf Here is the link to the specs and info on this bottom screen. Do not use a cheap bottom screen. Use only the heavy Fleck or Heavy Clack versions.

  3. #18
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Thanks. I'm pretty sure the old installation used rock, not garnet, but I've always wanted to see the difference, so what better time?

    Are these available on line anywhere? I'm coming up empty after 15 minutes of searching...
    Last edited by Mikey; 10-06-2012 at 05:44 AM.

  4. #19
    DIY Member MagKarl's Avatar
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    I plumbed in my new carbon filter yesterday and it seems to be working great. Nothing to taste or smell at all now.

  5. #20
    DIY Member MagKarl's Avatar
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    I would appreciate some input on backwash/rapid rinse duration and frequency. Right now the BW and RR are 10 minutes each, 3 day cycle. Treating softened water primarily for mild H2S with 2cf of Centaur.

  6. #21
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Backwash and rinse times are fine. Frequency may be a little often, but... it is up to you. H2S is relatively easy for GAC to remove, and if there is no sediment, you can probably backwash it less frequently. Weekly is usually fine.

    Congrats on solving yor water problem!

  7. #22
    DIY Member MagKarl's Avatar
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    Thanks for your input DH. The carbon is downstream of a sediment filter and my softener, so should not see sediment unless the softener malfunctions and starts passing resin.

  8. #23
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Finally found some Fleck 40922 baskets, and have started reloading and reconfiguring my system. Have cleaned out the contact tank, which was a lot uglier than I'd thought. Then set up a spare 10x54 tank with 1.5 cu ft Centaur carbon, which seems to take up a lot more room than I thought it would. After dumping the two 0.75 cu ft bags into the tank, the top of the carbon bed is only about 10" from the top of the tank -- does this sound right? Also, my 2510 valve does not have a top basket on it, but a lot of sites recommend it for a 7000 system, anyway. Is it important, and will the 2510 accept one?

  9. #24
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    10" is a little high but it should be fine. The top basket is used to keep the media from leaving the top of the tank during backwash (primarily due to colder water), to distribute the water for more consistent flow through the media, and to prevent media from getting into the valve during shipping. Many companies dont put a top screen into their iron removal systems since the screens tend to foul up very quickly. A top screen is not necessary most of the time, but most companies put them in since their cost is very low, and it prevents damage to the valve during shipping (if the system gets laid on its side).

    You should be ok, but watch the backwash water to make sure you dont lose too much GAC during backwash. A few fines is normal. Also, once the GAC tank is full, fill it with water and let it soak for a couple days prior to backwashing to lessen the startup difficulties.

  10. #25
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Thanks; I suspect that the carbon will settle a little once it gets soaked as well. Is there a particular p/n for a 2510 top basket?

    Update: Found part #TDB1050-BS, now wondering why I bothered with the high-flow 40922 bottom basket if there's a low-flow top basket in there. Probably not a factor considering my 10gpm maximum flow...
    Last edited by Mikey; 02-12-2013 at 09:59 AM.

  11. #26
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Actually, the 40922 bottom screen is important for durability more than flow rate. It is a nearly fail proof design. If you have ever had to deal with a failed bottom screen in a hotel, you will never go cheap on a bottom screen again.
    Last edited by ditttohead; 02-12-2013 at 01:31 PM.

  12. #27
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Well, I hope I never have to do that. I filled up the new carbon tank to let it soak for a couple of days, and got to wondering why I couldn't flow water through it via the distributor tube, and just letting the outflow run down the outside of the tank, getting most of the fines out of the bed that way? And, for that matter, when I do the softener, why couldn't I simulate a regeneration and wash/rinse the same way? It's a little easier for me to do something like that and only have to go through one cycle when I actually install the newly-bedded tanks into the system.

  13. #28
    DIY Member MagKarl's Avatar
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    So after 6 or so months of use, we're starting to get a little bit of swampy smell/taste to our water again. I need some help with suggestions on what I can do to determine the cause.

    To recap, my system is a cartridge particulate filter, followed by a 1.5cf softener treating ~7grains hardness and ~1ppm iron, followed by 2cf centaur carbon treating for H2S taste and smell. Carbon is being backwashed weekly, 10 min BW and RR. DLFC is 7gpm if I remember right, 12" tank. Worked great until the last couple weeks, it's been a whiff here and there, not consistent, but both my wife and I have noticed it and seems to be getting worse.

    Is it possible the carbon is already used up? Or is it more likely contaminated? I've had no obvious signs of bacterial troubles in my other equipment or fixtures.

    Should I pull the head and dig around in the media with a stick? Can I sanitize it with bleach? Should I backwash more often, or more aggressively?

  14. #29
    DIY Member MagKarl's Avatar
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    So after 6 or so months of use, we're starting to get a little bit of swampy smell/taste to our water again. I need some help with suggestions on what I can do to determine the cause.

    To recap, my system is a cartridge particulate filter, followed by a 1.5cf softener treating ~7grains hardness and ~1ppm iron, followed by 2cf centaur carbon treating for H2S taste and smell. Carbon is being backwashed weekly, 10 min BW and RR. DLFC is 7gpm if I remember right, 12" tank. Worked great until the last couple weeks, it's been a whiff here and there, not consistent, but both my wife and I have noticed it and seems to be getting worse.

    Is it possible the carbon is already used up? Or is it more likely contaminated? I've had no obvious signs of bacterial troubles in my other equipment or fixtures.

    Should I pull the head and dig around in the media with a stick? Can I sanitize it with bleach? Should I backwash more often, or more aggressively?

  15. #30
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    I'm a little suspicious of not chlorinating well water before GAC and softening; I don't see anything to kill the swamp critters. But I'm no expert...

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