(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Rain Soft Not Softening

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Dave S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Sabina, Ohio
    Posts
    4

    Default Rain Soft Not Softening

    Allow me first to thank you for taking time to help. The Model No. of my 12 year old Rain Soft unit is AMB 744 CT 60HZ and the Serial No. is 144255. Back in June we began noticing our water becoming harder. I called a Rain Soft franchisee on a Thursday or Friday who sent a technician out the next Monday. While waiting I upped the regeneration rate to every day. I was able to be here to observe the tech. He pulled the back cover off and we were able to watch the mechanism of the gears and the clear ball housing. He said everything worked fine and after doing several water tests was able to determine that water was softened. Well since then the water has seemed to become harder again. The toilets especially are showing dark rust like stains. While showering the water feels hard yet the soaps seem to sill be lathering pretty well. Also my brine tank has not emptied out of salt. I reset the system to regenerate every day. I was concerned that there might not be any water in the bottom of it so about 6 weeks ago I poured in about 3 gals. of clean water which cover the salt pellets. Today I took the back cover off and manually ran the softener through its cycle just as I had watched the R/S tech perform. The ball in the housing never dropped as I had previously remembered it doing. The first step there was a loud rushing of water. I felt the slightly larger diameter line leading to my sewage trunk pipe and it was vibrating like the water was flowing through it. Then on at least the brine and rinse steps I noticed a small air pocket at the very top of the ball housing. There was some jiggling of this air pocket and even more when the Well Mate (pressure tank) control switch clicked. After this click and flutter of the air pocket I noticed eddy like waves descending down the larger bowl beneath the ball. These waves also had the appearance of heat waves rolling through the water. Also the ball housing is no longer clear but is coated with a rusty type of film. - - Any suggestions as to how I can fix this? Again thank you!

  2. #2
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    It must not be sucking brine water properly.

    The most common causes are loose brine line fittings allowing the suction of air instead of heavy brine water, blocked injector, injector throat, injector screen or blocked drain line of drain line flow control. Or an internal problem with the old style RS control valve.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member Dave S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Sabina, Ohio
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Sorry I'm very new at this. Gary, I appreciated your quick reply. This is the first I've been able to get back to the water softener. I'm not sure if I'm sending this directly to Gary or posting it to the board. I've blown out the two smallest lines leading to the top of the ball housing and made sure their connections were tight. I saw no type of screen. On this model where is and how do I get to the injector to see if it, the throat, or the screen is blocked?

  4. #4
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Next to none of us here know what control valve a manufacturers' model number etc, refers to so...

    Post a picture of the face of your control valve minus any cover so we can speak to just your brand of control valve.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  5. #5
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    For a system that old that's not working, with questionable support, why not just replace the valve with a modern-day known quantity?

  6. #6
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Why would you want him to spend a few hundred dollars and a few anxious hours maybe, replacing a control valve and probably changing the plumbing some, when he could spend maybe 15 minutes with a common screw driver and an old tooth brush and a pin or tooth pick and have the thing fixed and working for the next few years?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member Dave S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Sabina, Ohio
    Posts
    4

    Default

    I'm sorry Gary, I thought Rain Soft would have used one specific control valve per model. It's going to be difficult to get a picture of the face of the control valve since the timer and gears cover the head of the resin tank. They have my R/S unit soldered in so close to the wall and between my hot water heater and furnace there are only a few inches between them. You are not speaking of the plate containing the model and serial numbers are you?

  8. #8
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    2,940

    Default

    I don't service a lot of Rainsoft product but over the years one common problem is the O rings. They wear out and cause the unit not to draw sufficient brine. Where you can get O rings I haven't a clue. Probably have to call your dealer again. I agree with Gary that if you can fix the thing yourself without having to spend a lot of money than thats the econmical way to go, however, Rainsoft like Culligan and Kinetico are a bear to find parts or technical information for.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  9. #9
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave S View Post
    I'm sorry Gary, I thought Rain Soft would have used one specific control valve per model. It's going to be difficult to get a picture of the face of the control valve since the timer and gears cover the head of the resin tank. They have my R/S unit soldered in so close to the wall and between my hot water heater and furnace there are only a few inches between them. You are not speaking of the plate containing the model and serial numbers are you?
    RS has used a number of controls over the years and it doesn't matter what model.

    The gears etc, are what we need to be able to identify what control valve you have. When we do we can tell you where the injector etc. is and what you need to do to clean it. So post the picture and we'll go from there.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  10. #10
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,707
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Many of the RS models used proprietary threads so as to not allow their valve to be replaced with a standardized design. If you are unable to get the valve working, you will likely be replacing the whole unit. Post the best pictures you can, most of their valves were based on common valves, a couple of pictures and we can probably give you a little more guidance.

    I just found this old manual, is this the unit you have? Sorry about the picture quality. If you do have this, I would recommend it is time to update to a modern water softener. Name:  744.jpg
Views: 734
Size:  45.7 KB
    Last edited by ditttohead; 10-02-2012 at 09:58 AM.

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member Dave S's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Sabina, Ohio
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Again, thank you all for taking the time to read this and comment. Yes, Dittohead, that is exactly what I have. In the first illistration on the left the ball valve in the back - - those two small lines running to the top of it are the ones I've blown out.

  12. #12
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,707
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    I am fairly certain this valve has been discontinued, but check around, dont take my word for it. I would recommend a modern, efficient softener to replace that unit.

    Are you sure it is only 12 years old? When I was working the field regularly, that system had already been replaced for some time. This is a time clock system, not even legal in many states anymore due to their inefficiency.

    Wish I had better news, maybe someone else on this site will have more insite now that we know which valve it is.

  13. #13
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    That looks like the original RS brass valve, you won't get parts for it because it was discontinued many years ago. Today they use a modified Fleck 5600 (IIRC) valve.

    I used to have a supplier for a tank adapter to convert RS's smaller diameter and fine thread green tanks to standard 2.5" by 8thrd/inch but don't know if there are any today.

    So it's time for a new correctly sized softener...

    Plus your softener is a smallish 1/2 cuft (7" x 44" tank) and way too small for a once per week regeneration.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

Similar Threads

  1. Softener not softening?
    By 70runner in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 06-10-2012, 11:27 AM
  2. pH 6.1 after softening..how can I raise it ?
    By nofears in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-17-2012, 03:14 PM
  3. Kinetico Model softening 50% of time
    By snifferpro in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-18-2011, 09:30 AM
  4. Water tests soft but doesn't feel soft.
    By ninefall in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 10-06-2010, 07:54 PM
  5. water softener - not softening- please help!
    By trammien in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-18-2008, 10:24 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •