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Thread: Canature Brand Brim Filter - Alternatives?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member JoshB-NC's Avatar
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    Default Canature Brand Brim Filter - Alternatives?

    Hi,

    This is my first post to the board, although have been reading others post for quite some time. Great forum and lots of great info. Thank you everyone!

    We have a house that we recently purchased. It is on well water with a pretty bad sulfur smell. It has been recommended to me that a IWT565BM-150 would fix the problem. Or I believe the new part number to be CAN565BAF-150.

    A good friend also worked at the local water company (he offered to help install one if I could buy it direct so I could save some money) confirmed that they had installed quite a few of these IWT units in our neighborhood with very good results in removing the sulfur smell. This seems contrary to what I have read on some websites that brim filters do not remove sulfur smell.

    Sales guy did say that they had tried other brands of brim filters in the past with so-so results. The IWT unit however is better than the others because it has an air pocket under the control head that helps remove the sulfur gas and oxidize the iron for removal (or something to that effect). I am not sure if this is a sales pitch from the company to use this brand or if it is true? I did notice the Canature unit has a separate tank for the air removal.

    Normally I would just pay the $1795 to have it installed, but money is tight. I cannot find this unit anywhere - or even a similar unit. I did find greensand units, which he told me to stay away from due to the high cost of operation over life of unit. Anyone know of a place to buy these or are they only available from my local dealer?

    Water was tested when we bought the house. No issues other than the sulfur and a slight amount of iron and hard water. (7.6 PH, 11 Grains hardness).

    Sorry for the long post...

    Thank you again,

    Josh

  2. #2
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I am not much of a fan of the Canature valves, their tanks and many of their accessories are good quality. I would recommend sticking with a Fleck or Clack valve since this is the most critical part of the system. Check out the 2510 AIO style systems. This design has been around for a very long time and works very well.

    I do not usually recommend anyone, but a quick search came up with this company. https://www.afwfilters.com/air-injec...tems-12-1.html

    Simple and works great, and it uses the highest quality components throughout the system. The Canatures are typically just Import knockoffs focused on being the lowest price. Not that they are bad, just not as good as the real thing.
    Last edited by ditttohead; 09-20-2012 at 10:32 AM.

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    DIY Junior Member JoshB-NC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    I am not much of a fan of the Canature valves, their tanks and many of their accessories are good quality. I would recommend sticking with a Fleck or Clack valve since this is the most critical part of the system. Check out the 2510 AIO style systems. This design has been around for a very long time and works very well.

    I do not usually recommend anyone, but a quick search came up with this company. https://www.afwfilters.com/air-injec...tems-12-1.html

    Simple and works great, and it uses the highest quality components throughout the system. The Canatures are typically just Import knockoffs focused on being the lowest price. Not that they are bad, just not as good as the real thing.
    Thank you - I just called and talked to them. Nice guy - looking at the "Air Injection Platinum 15 System" with the Fleck 2510SXT. And the WS-48k-56SXT with a 5600SXT control. Good stuff? Prices seem reasonable?

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    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    The link I posted is for Lancasters air injection system. That's a Clack valve on top of the tank
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Prices seem very fair. I would recommend the 2510SXT over the 5600SXT.

    Good luck, this system should work very well for you.

    Check out this link re: Birm for hydrogen sulfide removal. http://www.clackcorp.com/downloads/i.../birm_2350.pdf

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member JoshB-NC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Prices seem very fair. I would recommend the 2510SXT over the 5600SXT.

    Good luck, this system should work very well for you.

    Check out this link re: Birm for hydrogen sulfide removal. http://www.clackcorp.com/downloads/i.../birm_2350.pdf
    Its funny - the Culligan guy recommended the Brim filter to get rid of the smell. Everything you read says brim is not for sulfide.

    Is there a major difference between the 2510SXT and the 5600SXT?

  8. #8
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    They are using Birm for oxidizing particulate removal and any soluble iron that might get through the air (oxidizer) a assuming the air gets rid of all the H2S but... the Birm will fail if they don't get rid of all the H2S. I wouldn't do that, I'd use Centaur carbon but it is much more expensive than Birm.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  9. #9
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshB-NC View Post
    Its funny - the Culligan guy recommended the Brim filter to get rid of the smell. Everything you read says brim is not for sulfide.

    Is there a major difference between the 2510SXT and the 5600SXT?
    The 2510 tends to be a better valve for this application. It will also allow you to use Pyrolox or Filox in the future if your water condition needs it. The 5600SXT has a limited backwash capability. I also like the drive train of the 2510 better then the 5600. It is based on the older commercial valves. Both valve work very well but the 2510SXT is a heavier valve design. If it werent for the air inkection, the 7000 would be a better choice, but for now, the 7000 is not available in AIO.

  10. #10
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    For other readers, it would be nice if you'd explain what AIO is....
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  11. #11
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshB-NC View Post
    Its funny - the Culligan guy recommended the Brim filter to get rid of the smell. Everything you read says brim is not for sulfide.

    Is there a major difference between the 2510SXT and the 5600SXT?
    It is not easy for a DIYer wanting to replace the seals and spacers in a 2510. The 5600 is much easier and depending on the size of the filter, a 5600 would work well and cost less than a 2510.

    I doubt that Lancaster Pump is going to sell to a DIYer or end user.

    I'm starting to think Canature is looking pretty good. A 2 year longer valve warranty, 7 yrs compared to 5 years for US valve manufacturers and then a lifetime warranty on their tanks when US tank manufacturers have a best of 5 years for normal residential size tanks. And the Canature equipment is WQA, NSF etc. rated and the company is a WQA member. And you probably would pay less for Canature. Even Dittohead can't find anything wrong with Canature.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  12. #12
    DIY Junior Member JoshB-NC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    It is not easy for a DIYer wanting to replace the seals and spacers in a 2510. The 5600 is much easier and depending on the size of the filter, a 5600 would work well and cost less than a 2510.

    I doubt that Lancaster Pump is going to sell to a DIYer or end user.

    I'm starting to think Canature is looking pretty good. A 2 year longer valve warranty, 7 yrs compared to 5 years for US valve manufacturers and then a lifetime warranty on their tanks when US tank manufacturers have a best of 5 years for normal residential size tanks. And the Canature equipment is WQA, NSF etc. rated and the company is a WQA member. And you probably would pay less for Canature. Even Dittohead can't find anything wrong with Canature.
    I cannot find anyone that sells Canature direct to a DIY'er. The 2510SXT/Air Injection/Tank/Filox media is close to $400 cheaper than the Brim Canature unit my local water deal is suggesting I use.

    The 5610SXT was on the water softener unit. That unit is close to $1000 less than the local dealers price (Culligan unit).

    Fleck parts seem readily available, which is an advantage for me. Have rebuilt hydraulic valves in the past on heavy equipment - so I feel confident with the help of this site I could rebuild the Fleck if it is needed.

    Basically my #1 priority is getting a system that works/takes care of the problem and a system that will last with normal maintenance. Price is #2 - if I have to wait and save to get the proper equipment - we will deal with the stinky water for a month or two.

    Great feedback please keep it coming!

  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    I'm an authorized Canature dealer and sell to DIY'ers. I have used them for over a year and like the fact that they backup what they say. What part of NC are you in?-

  14. #14
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshB-NC View Post
    I cannot find anyone that sells Canature direct to a DIY'er. The 2510SXT/Air Injection/Tank/Filox media is close to $400 cheaper than the Brim Canature unit my local water deal is suggesting I use.

    The 5610SXT was on the water softener unit. That unit is close to $1000 less than the local dealers price (Culligan unit).
    You are comparing online dealer delivered price to local dealer delivered and installed price. That's not a fair comparison because the online dealer will always be the lower price due to lower overhead expense and you do the install at your expense. And you are comparing a national brand dealer/franchisee price to a local independent dealer price... Also not a fair comparison; national brand franchisee (or exclusive territory) dealers will always be the highest price bar none.

    Quote Originally Posted by JoshB-NC View Post
    Fleck parts seem readily available, which is an advantage for me. Have rebuilt hydraulic valves in the past on heavy equipment - so I feel confident with the help of this site I could rebuild the Fleck if it is needed.
    But you say you have a local Canature dealer, certainly you could get parts from him or Canature would put you in contact with another dealer for parts. And now you see that Mialynette2003 is selling Canature online.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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