Water Heater Woes....

MikeG · Jan 3, 2006

Happy New Year to Everyone!

Well this past week I was in the basement and noticed that my 9 month old Rheem 80 gal. water heater was leaking at the base. I can't find the source of the leak but there is a small puddle of water on the concrete floor. The water heater is not on feet or in a pan. I called the plumber and he said that it looked like the internal tank was leaking. The good news is that it is under warranty.

The bad news is that this is the second Rheem water heater in 3 years!

This one cost me $450 to install. I'm really ticked off. I think Rheem should cover the installation charges to replace this, the second bad heater in 3 years.

Right now the plumber is calling Rheem to see if they will cover the charges. What I'd really like to do is replace the Rheem with something else. Maybe AO Smith. Any recommendations?

So in your plumbing experience, have you ever had a manufacturer cover your installation fees for a product replacement?

Thanks, Mike

Jimbo · Jan 3, 2006

Most brands have a one year parts and labor. Any reputable plumber would give you one year warranty on the install regardless, if you bought the tank from him.

The bigger question is what's going on? Rheem is a quality brand, so we have to wonder if something like an electric system problem in your house is to blame. Have you determined for sure that the tank is leaking, or could it be a fitting, or the relief valve lifting???

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

MikeG · Jan 3, 2006

Jimbo -

When I checked the temp relief valve with the plumber yesterday it appeared to be dry. The moisture on the concrete is about 3 or 4 inches from the relief valve pipe. I don't see any moisture directly below the valve pipe. I guess I could tape some tissue on the end of the pipe to see if it is damp.

The top of the tank is dry. The tank is near my woodshop so there is a little sawdust on the top. It is all dry. The fittings for the tank to copper have a brass nipple to prevent a metalergic reaction/corrosion.

It seems that the moisture is a little more (spreads further out from the tank) in the evening after the kids have taken baths. I'm not sure what that would mean.

Since I have not noticed a significant amount of puddling, is it likely the tank is leaking or something else? Do tanks ever do a major flood when they leak?

Thanks,
Mike

Mike Swearingen · Jan 3, 2006

If you do not appear to have a constant, spreading leak, I don't think that it is necessarily the tank.
It may be that you're on public water with a Pressure Reducing Valve after your meter with no expansion tank on the water heater, which in turn, causes the T&P valve to leak when the tank heats up.
A PRV creates a "closed system" that does not allow heated water anywhere to expand except out through the T&P valve.
If this is the case, you may just need to install an expansion tank to solve the problem.
Mike

Gary Swart · Jan 3, 2006

Yep! This sound exactly like the problem I recently had and cured with an expansion tank. Try this: put a small pan under the PRV drain pipe. Check it the next day to see if there is water in it or not. If there is, then the problem is either a fault PRV or a closed system. Replace the PRV ($10) and check again. If there is water, then it's a closed system. Another way to test is to put a pressure gauge on a hot water faucet and see what happens when the tank heats. If you have a closed system, the gauge reading will scare the hell out of your because it will be off the high end!

Plumber1 · Jan 3, 2006

w/h

Have you been using the auto washer or dishwasher? When the solenoid closes it can jolt your t & p. to the point where it can drip some water.

Toolaholic · Jan 3, 2006

JIMBO let me get this straight

are you saying if a customer has a new h. depot water heater, in the box sitting on the garage floor, i install, and it takes a dump in 11 months i should eat the labor? i,ve made no mark up on this item!
all i have is labor. any one runing a successful buss. would do this

hj · Jan 3, 2006

heater

NO! You only take the hit if you supplied the heater, whether you made any money on it or not. If the customer supplies it then it is between him, HD, and GE.

MikeG · Jan 3, 2006

Hey guys more information on the leak. Tonight the kids and my wife were using the shower and bathtub and the tank was really being put to work. I checked the tank after they were done. Sure enough, there was water on the side of the tank were the temp relief valve pipe is. It looks like the valve may be faulty or I need an expansion tank.

We are on county water. The treatment plant is 1 block from the house so the pressure off the main line is very good. The PRV on the street line coming in appears to be in good shape but it is 18 years old. I do not have an expansion tank on the system. Where would that be installed? After the water heater off the hot water line?

I'll talk to the plumber tomorrow to see about getting the Temp Relief Valve replaced.

Toolaholic - I was not asking the plumber to eat the cost of the install. I was asking Rheem to if it was their issue. My point being 2 bad water heaters in 3 years indicates a manufacturing problem to me. My plumber was starting to talk to Rheem about getting a reimbursement from them. He agreed that I should not pay for another installation if it was their issue.

Thanks everyone!

Mike

Jadnashua · Jan 3, 2006

If you have a prv and DON"T have an expansion tank, just put one in...it will probably resolve your problem, and you need one anyways. The tank can go anywhere it is convenient, and is usually put into the cold supply line, but doesn't have to. The heat MAY affect the ultimate life. My unprofessional opinion. Now, if you are going to have a plumber do this (the tank), then for the small cost of the valve, it probably is a reasonable thing to replace it, too (but it probably isn't necessary). Much cheaper than paying him to come back to do it.

Jimbo · Jan 3, 2006

toolaholic "are you saying if a customer has a new h. depot water heater, in the box sitting on the garage floor, i install, and it takes a dump in 11 months i should eat the labor? i,ve made no mark up on this item!
all i have is labor. any one runing a successful buss. would do this "

Notice I said IF you bought the tank from the plumber. We all know about the issues of installing customer-provided items. Customers sometimes need some education on this situation.

Gary Swart · Jan 3, 2006

Get a Watt expansion tank. All the instructions you need to install are included. Several options for locating the tank are shown, but the best is to mount it so that it hangs down from the water line. Be very certain to support the tank well no matter how it is mounted. If mounted vertically, then a couple of straps from the water line on each side attached to joists seems to be best. Very simple to install yourself if you can sweat a joint.

Cass · Jan 4, 2006

jadnashua said:
If you have a prv and DON"T have an expansion tank, just put one in...it will probably resolve your problem, and you need one anyways. The tank can go anywhere it is convenient, and is usually put into the cold supply line, but doesn't have to. The heat MAY affect the ultimate life. My unprofessional opinion. Now, if you are going to have a plumber do this (the tank), then for the small cost of the valve, it probably is a reasonable thing to replace it, too (but it probably isn't necessary). Much cheaper than paying him to come back to do it.

Yes, the Exp. tank must go on the cold water side of the water heater.

MikeG · Jan 4, 2006

Well I talked to the plumber who installed the WH this morning. He is saying what all of you have said - PRV needs to be replaced and probably should add the expansion tank. He gave me an estimate of $330 for the PRV and around $220 for the exp tank.

How do you know if it is the T&P valve and not the PRV?

Gary Swart · Jan 4, 2006

One of two ways. Replace the PRV and add the expansion tank, which you have to do anyway, and see if the TP valve still leaks. If so, replace it. Second way, spend $10 and replace the TP along with the PRV and expansion tank.

Toolaholic · Jan 4, 2006

jimbo, i just reread your comment

i believe that could be read in 2 ways . i thought you were saying the installer should give free labor on the 2nd install" REGARDLESS of who supplied the unit.

thank's tool

MikeG · Jan 4, 2006

Tool - sorry you read it that way that was certainly not what I meant.

Bob NH · Jan 4, 2006

Good DIY Projects

If you can find a PRV of the same model or with the same connections, you can replace it in 30 minutes. A 3/4" Watts PRV is $43.90 in my Grainger catalog; $61.85 and $69.85 for the 1" models.

I suspect the lack of an expansion tank is at least as likely to be the problem. A 4.5 gallon tank is less than $70 in the catalog.

Toolaholic · Jan 4, 2006

thankyou mike

i never thought you were suggesting that.

Water Heater Woes....

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