New Kitchen Sink Install

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Docbrown25

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Hello - I am going to attempt to install a new kitchen sink. I have very little plumbing experience (installed facuets, etc). The sink I am installing is about 2.5" inches deeper than old sink and the drains are offset in a different location.

A picture is attached of the current plumbing with the old sink removed.

I have 2 questions.
1. There is what I have found out to be an inline vent/valve under the sink. This valve is too tall for the sink. Can I safely shorten this pipe and re-attach the valve? Is there a minimum height requirement?

2. The right-hand side of sink is where I'm having trouble figuring out how to position the drian pipe so that it will line up with the new sink. I have tried to swivel it around the trap, but I don't think it will line up. Can you pleae offer some suggestions as to how I can reconfigure this side?

Again, I am very inexperienced in plumbing and I appreciate any help.

Thanks
J

kitchen_sink_plumbing_2.jpg
 

Terry

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It's normally easier to install the sink first, and then start to connect the drains.

The AAV should have been close to the wall, before the wyes for the p-traps. It was installed backwards before.

The dishwasher drain could have been installed to the upper inlet of the disposer. If you move to that drain location, remember to knock out the internal plug on the disposer. The DW drain should either by high looped, or have an air gap before it connects to the drain system (or disposer)

http://www.insinkerator.com/en-us/Documents/Disposer/Badger-Installation-Care-and-Use-Manual.pdf

badger_install_16.jpg
 
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Docbrown25

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Thanks for the fast reply. I will definitely install the sink first, I did a dry test already. Like I said in my first post. I could not position the right side drain properly given the existing setup, so I'm looking for suggestions on how to fix that. As well as shortening the aav in in its current location.
I'm trying to avoid redoing the whole thing, maybe that is what you are suggesting?
 

Docbrown25

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It appears that the larger pipes (like at the wyes and up to the aav) are glued at their connections. Is there anyway to get these apart? Or do I have to cut the whole thing off at the wall? Will there be enough pipe left to attach another connector?
 

Terry

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I would cut out that entire mess.
Am I repeating myself here? Yes. Cut it out and start over.

Leave two inches of pipe sticking out of the wall.
Install the new sink on the counter top.
Install the disposer.
Install the AAV near the wall using a fitting that points it upward
And then run piping to the disposer and second sink basket. You can either tee between the two, or use a tee on the basket opposite from the disposer and run the disposer to that tee. At some point though, you have to "cut out that mess"

 

Docbrown25

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Thanks for the reply. I think I have a much better idea of how to do this. Just to be clear the fitting for the AAV, can that go straight up with a t fitting out the wall or do I need to point it sideways then use a curved peice to go up. hope what I'm asking makes sense.

Also, is there a preference to having 2 traps (one for each side then tee) or 1 ptrap after the tee?

Thanks again. you have been very helpful.
 

Jadnashua

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SOme of your questions would be determined by local codes - they are not the same everywhere in the USA. You don't want to run the connection for the AAV anywhere but up from the drain line or it could become clogged. Not sure whether a T or a San-T would both be okay or not (per code). Often, there's only one trap for a double sink, but you may find places that want them individually trapped. If you can get by with one trap, make sure that the proper connection is used as the sink with the disposer acts like a pump and it can shoot waste into the other sink if you don't use the proper baffle to stop it.

You mentioned shortening the height of the AAV - that's not a good idea. It should be installed as high as possible in the cabinet while still being able to remove it when (not if) it fails sometime down the road. It could become fouled if the drain got clogged and stuff backed up in there (not real likely, but possible). WHen it does fail, (stuck open), it wouldn't affect the draining, but it would be an open connection for sewer gasses to get into the cabinet.
 

hj

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Cut the pipe behind the "Y", then install the sink and work the drains to the new locations. I would start with a "double Y" and go from there to the two drains with the AAV, and a cleanout, into the center.
 

Docbrown25

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Thanks for the suggestion. I will need to think about using a double y.
I was thinking I settled on something like this pic I found. Using a san t as the first fitting and sending my AAV striaght up. Similar to what Terry suggested.

garbagedisposal.jpg
 

Docbrown25

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Cut the pipe behind the "Y", then install the sink and work the drains to the new locations. I would start with a "double Y" and go from there to the two drains with the AAV, and a cleanout, into the center.

Actually liking the double y idea the more I think about. When you say a cleanout with the AAV. What type of fitting should I use out of the center? Is the cleanout necessary?
 

hj

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A cleanout may not be "necessary" but it is always a good idea. The new deeper sink may make a connection like your picture impossible if the drain from the wall is too high. A "street tee" into the Y with a "spigot female cleanout adapter", and plug, will be the "tightest" way with the AAV into the top of the T.
 

Docbrown25

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got it. Thanks! Can you explain why I want a "street tee" vs a regular tee or a san-t? looks like it just has different connectors on each end...

nevermind. i now realize the street tee will be abel to fit directly into the y without any additional pipe.
 
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Lakee911

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BTW, if you don't have the new sink set yet, you may want to get the faucet installed (if you can) before you drop it in the hole. It's tough to work in the narrow space up there.
 
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