1” Sch 40 is good to 450 PSI, but the glue joint is only good to 270 PSI. 1” sch 80 is good to 630 PSI, but the threaded ends cuts out a lot of meat and decreases the pressure rating by ½ to 315 PSI. Of course burst pressure is usually 2 to 5 times the pipes pressure ratting.
I have been using sch 80 threaded with galv coupling since about 1973. I didn’t know of anybody else that was using it back then, but I was installing enough pumps to do some trial and error studies. Found out that threaded PVC couplings would come unscrewed. Found out Galv couplings worked well, but didn’t need any pipe dope or Teflon tape. Just run them dry and tighten until it pops a time or two and quit.
“Found out” means had some come unscrewed and had to fish for the pump. Had some that wouldn’t come unscrewed and had to cut the pipe. Lots of trial and error until I figured out to run the threads dry and quit after it pops a time or two.
Set a lot of 2 HP and smaller pumps from 50’ to 300’ deep on 1 ¼” sch 80. Set some 5 HP on 2” up to about 200’ deep. I see a lot of people now use the Sch 120 with belled and threaded ends. Looks like a good idea, except I am still uncertain about the PVC female threaded ends. I am afraid they may come unscrewed like the old PVC threaded couplings.
I also set a few pumps on poly pipe to maybe 300’ deep, when I couldn’t get a rig to the location or something.
The only problem I have ever had with any flexible drop pipe is from cycling on and off. The wire will be slapped against the casing or rub the pipe until you get a short. Double jacketed wire like the THHN, which is my favorite, last a lot longer. I never liked cable guards, torque arrestors, or rope as they can get stuck and keep you from getting the pump out of the well.
After I started using Cycle Stop Valves on every pump system, I never had another problem with rubbing the wire. When the pump doesn’t continually cycle on and off, you no longer rub the wire, and you don’t need torque arrestors or cable guards.
In the oil fields around here they install a lot of big pumps on 3” and 4” poly pipe up to about 500’ deep. They use heavy wall poly we call “fast line”. Also see a lot of people using 3”, 4”, even 6” fire hose. You know the kind that rolls up flat, but it can take 600 PSI. They just put a big pulley on top of the well and pull out the whole string at once while tied to the bumper of a pickup. Startup or pumping the well dry will cause them to really spin in the well, so eliminating the cycling is very important.
I have been using sch 80 threaded with galv coupling since about 1973. I didn’t know of anybody else that was using it back then, but I was installing enough pumps to do some trial and error studies. Found out that threaded PVC couplings would come unscrewed. Found out Galv couplings worked well, but didn’t need any pipe dope or Teflon tape. Just run them dry and tighten until it pops a time or two and quit.
“Found out” means had some come unscrewed and had to fish for the pump. Had some that wouldn’t come unscrewed and had to cut the pipe. Lots of trial and error until I figured out to run the threads dry and quit after it pops a time or two.
Set a lot of 2 HP and smaller pumps from 50’ to 300’ deep on 1 ¼” sch 80. Set some 5 HP on 2” up to about 200’ deep. I see a lot of people now use the Sch 120 with belled and threaded ends. Looks like a good idea, except I am still uncertain about the PVC female threaded ends. I am afraid they may come unscrewed like the old PVC threaded couplings.
I also set a few pumps on poly pipe to maybe 300’ deep, when I couldn’t get a rig to the location or something.
The only problem I have ever had with any flexible drop pipe is from cycling on and off. The wire will be slapped against the casing or rub the pipe until you get a short. Double jacketed wire like the THHN, which is my favorite, last a lot longer. I never liked cable guards, torque arrestors, or rope as they can get stuck and keep you from getting the pump out of the well.
After I started using Cycle Stop Valves on every pump system, I never had another problem with rubbing the wire. When the pump doesn’t continually cycle on and off, you no longer rub the wire, and you don’t need torque arrestors or cable guards.
In the oil fields around here they install a lot of big pumps on 3” and 4” poly pipe up to about 500’ deep. They use heavy wall poly we call “fast line”. Also see a lot of people using 3”, 4”, even 6” fire hose. You know the kind that rolls up flat, but it can take 600 PSI. They just put a big pulley on top of the well and pull out the whole string at once while tied to the bumper of a pickup. Startup or pumping the well dry will cause them to really spin in the well, so eliminating the cycling is very important.
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