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Thread: A couple of questions-- Fleck 7000

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  1. #1
    DIY Member fatdaddy's Avatar
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    Default A couple of questions-- Fleck 7000

    I posted over in the wrong forum and have a couple of questions for you.
    A brief background:
    This past week I had a two-tank carbon filter put in because my well tested positive for pesticides. Two GAC tanks and a pre/post filter. The pre-filter clogged up quickly (three days) and the house lost dramatic pressure.
    I had the installer come out but,while nice,he is a real biscuit,and I have pretty much determined that I need a back-washable filter on this new set-up as my well water is pretty heavy with seditment.And I am not going to change filters every three -four days. My well pump needs replacement about every six years due to the quality of water. I am not drilling a new well or heading in that direction either,yet.

    My questions now are:
    1) Is the FLECK 7000 a good sediment filter...any brands that the folks her like more?
    2) Is CHEMSORB a good material for the inside? Does it really do the job for as long as the company says?
    3) I have been assured that the soda ash is for the PH and will not be removed by the filters. Does the soda as need the react with the galavanized tank to be effective or ,someday down the line,can I replace that old dinosaur with a modern tank?

    My setup is something like this:
    -well is 210+" deep. If I recall, a 3/4 Goulds pump in the well.
    -I inject soda ash and the water continues to a glavanized holding tank.
    -water leaves tank to the new carbon tank set-up.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    It would be good to know just exactly how much sediment your well is producing but if you are chewing pumps every 6 years I'd say it's pretty bad. Here's the real problem. That sediment will eventually fill the well until it is at the pump which means you raise the pump and wait for it to happen again. I have put what is called a sock ( a fiberglass mesh bag ) over pumps before and they do extend the life of the pump but again, eventually the sediment gets at the pumps level and the troubles start all over again. I know you don't like the idea but a new well is your only real solution. Everything else you do will be stop gap at best.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

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    DIY Member fatdaddy's Avatar
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    Stop gaps,measured in years,is OK with me. I do not see myself in this place beyond the next pump replacement.
    So what about the other questions? Any thoughts?
    Thanks in advance for any/all imput!

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    My questions now are:
    1) Is the FLECK 7000 a good sediment filter...any brands that the folks her like more? 7000 is excellent, but... this is one of the rare times I wmay lean toward a flapper disc design (autotrol) if you do not want to install any filter ahead of the system. The piston style units are extremely reliable, except when exposed to sediment on a regular basis. That being said, the piston design of the 7000 will probably last many years, but it is simply more susceptible to damage than a flapper disc design. My suggestion, put a Lakos Twist to clean http://www.twistiiclean.com/ pre filter in ahead of the 7000, and use a micro-z, turbidex, filter-ag+, Chemsorb or nextsand media with a heavy backwash, at least 13-15 GPM per sq. ft.
    2) Is CHEMSORB a good material for the inside? Does it really do the job for as long as the company says? Yes, similar if not the same as the medias mentioned above. It has almost eliminated the traditional multi-media design as well as filter-ag.
    3) I have been assured that the soda ash is for the PH and will not be removed by the filters. Does the soda as need the react with the galavanized tank to be effective or ,someday down the line,can I replace that old dinosaur with a modern tank? We need a serious water test done to answer that question accurately. We try to use simpler methods of pH control than soda ash injection when possible. Calcite and other medias in a tank are the preferred methods when possible.

    My setup is something like this:
    -well is 210+" deep. If I recall, a 3/4 Goulds pump in the well.
    -I inject soda ash and the water continues to a glavanized holding tank.
    -water leaves tank to the new carbon tank set-up.

    Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE]

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    DIY Member fatdaddy's Avatar
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    Wow! Thanks very much for your response. I will wait for the installer to come up his solution and then evaluate my options. Thanks.

  6. #6
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Just what type pesticides and how much of whatever?

    What does the "sediment" from the well look like, or what is it?

    What type pre and post filters? Meaning the micron rating and if they are disposable cartridge filters or not?

    Is the well a rock bore (cased into bed rock) or a fully cased and then screened well (into sand and gravel)?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
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  7. #7
    DIY Member fatdaddy's Avatar
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    -Above action levels for Dieldren on some Federal test. Not a big deal for me. People have different points of view and it is not worth arguing about. I installed this system only because in the future a buyer will probably want it and I thought I might as well get any advantage from it as well. Also, I will be testing once a year or so and fully expect various changes in the content/quality.Contamination of well water is a given,but changes can be expected by date and season and other factors.Like I said...it is for future resale.
    -The sediment is reddish/beige slime. If I recall the pump being pulled from the well last time,it is the same down the hole. The pump was pretty much gone,and again...records indicate a new pump every six or so years. The consistencey of the goo is not quite like coffee syrup but close. No real chunks ot it.
    The filter,both pre and post, is five micon. I changed it last night so that is twice in less than a week...thus my thought about a back-washable filter prior to the new install.

    A note--prior to last weeks install,I had a large tank that was a carbon filter that backwashed. It had not been re-bedded in ten+ years. The cost to rebed it was $565 and the new two-tank,non backwashable system put me back $1500 but the selling point the installer gave me was that backwashing does not remove all the pesticides. The timer was malfunctioning so I went ahead with the new system. In hindsight I should stayed with the old one but that is water under the bridge now.
    I will be changing the carbon myself in the future so if I live to be a hundred I might recoup my expenses. I also plan on installing the FLECK 7000 myself if I get it. I might also buy a little time and just keep changing the filters to see what happens though I do not expect much of a change. I have a few aso I will use them up.

  8. #8
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    I know this started in the well and pump forum and that I suggested you post filter questions here, but I thought you might still consider some form of mitigation of the well issues there. I would exhaust all options of mitigating the problem at the well before resorting to filtering in the house.

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