Workaround for hole in casing?

[Arde]

I have a 200' well with 105' of 1 1/4" galv. pipe in a 2" casing. Static water level is 60'. Unfortunately, I have a hole in the casing about 30' down.

What I was wondering is, would it work to place the cup leathers at the end of the first joint of pipe, above the hole, and the ejector assembly at the bottom as normal? Am aware of another thread about a similar situation with a much shallower well.

Not being knowledgeable about how all this stuff works together makes me wonder if the differences in water pressures would prevent this from working.

If not, I'll bite the bullet and have another well drilled.

Thanks in advance for any input anyone may have.

[LLigetfa]

The work-around using leathers above the hole, only works on shallow well systems and doesn't work with a packer. The packer uses the space between the casing and downpipe to drive the jet in the venturi.

[Arde]

Damn!! lol, Thanks for the info, I was afraid of something like that. Got the driller scheduled.

[justwater]

there is kind-of a patch for a casing hole with 2" deepwell jet systems.. but the hole would need to be less than 20'~ above the water level so it cant even be considered here. how did you determine the hole was at 30'?

only way i know how to pinpoint a hole between top of casing and the jet is by breaking the well adapter loose and raising the jet couple feet at a time and pouring water in the 2". when the water stays at the top of 2" and doesnt leak down, you know you just got above the hole. (this is assuming the leathers stay intact). if water leaks back all the way up, you would replace leathers and do this same test in reverse. should keep holding water while pushing back in and checking every few feet. when the water starts leaking back you know you just passed the hole. with a 60' water level i'd imagine the jet is set at 80' or more. why couldnt the hole be at 70?

with that said, any patch on the casing of a 2" deepwell setup is not a permanent fix. its tedious and doesnt always work like you think it should. you've been blowing water out into a the ground for a while so the ground could be pressurized. also when you pull above the hole it starts letting everything into the well instead of only water out... could plug the well with sand/etc. if it all works perfect and you do actually put a bandaid on it.. when something else in the well messes up, there is about 0 chance of working on it again. wells will only get more expensive so i'd say your doing good by getting another. make sure its pvc so you dont have this problem in the future.

i've worked on a bunch over the years... deepwell jet pumps and 2" steel wells can be a huge PITA

[LLigetfa]

wells will only get more expensive so i'd say your doing good by getting another. make sure its pvc so you dont have this problem again.

+1
Also consider a larger casing so that you can use a submersible. Subs have greater capacity and use much less energy.

[LLigetfa]

there is kind-of a patch for a casing hole with 2" deepwell jet systems.. but the hole would need to be less than 20'~ above the water level so it cant even be considered here...

Yes, I had suggested that work-around before in another thread but knowing the OP's water table was at 60 feet, 30 feet below the hole, thought it was not a viable option. The other point of that workaround is that the GPM output would likely be less.

[justwater]

The other point of that workaround is that the GPM output would likely be less.

no doubt, good point.

keep the driller scheduled.

[Texas Wellman]

Justwater nailed it. Best thing to do is have the old well properly plugged and abandoned after you install the new well. I hope you're going back with 4" PVC, I think you'll like it much better.