Construction questions on steam shower and bath reno

**jla** · 09-24-2012, 04:55 AM

Can you describe the basic installation of the shower glass door using the Kerdi Fix and what to avoid? I want to have specifics to discuss it with the glass installer.
As far as the metal piece for the cabinet, it may be fine to just have a description although I think I have about a week for cabinet delivery unless it will be problematic to locate the additional metal accent.
Thanks, John.

**jla** · 09-24-2012, 05:03 AM

Also, is the vented metal piece pictured on the ceiling of your shower part of the steam unit or an additional vent you installed? I have never seen that.
I noticed your comment on the air tub and will be installing a self cleaning Bain Ultra one also this week. Any specific tips, techniques, etc. I should be aware of? What is the Ram Board?

**johnfrwhipple** · 09-24-2012, 05:33 AM

Originally Posted by jla

Can you describe the basic installation of the shower glass door using the Kerdi Fix and what to avoid? I want to have specifics to discuss it with the glass installer.
As far as the metal piece for the cabinet, it may be fine to just have a description although I think I have about a week for cabinet delivery unless it will be problematic to locate the additional metal accent.
Thanks, John.

Often the "glazer" (glass installer) will need to drill into your shower for the support cleats or U-Channel. With the hole drilled often all that is done is to insert a plug and their done. Ask that the holes be given a little amount of Kerdi Fix. This is a waterproofing agent and will help seal the hole so water does not wick through these punctures.

If your installer has no access to Kerdi Fix then a quality Silicone is better than nothing at all.

JW

I set an alarm on my IPhone to take some pictures today. The metal accent is not hard to track down but does require more work from the cabinet installer to install. It is common in the industry to pay an installer a flat few for the install. It is recommended that scribed Gable ends get the cut sealed before installation. It is rare to see this happen. The metal accent elimates the wood from ever touching the floor and thus prevents the end grain from taking on moisture that can swell the board.

It will make more sense with the picture.

I'll bring my laptop to work and post the picture around lunch time.

JW

**johnfrwhipple** · 09-24-2012, 05:40 AM

Originally Posted by jla

Also, is the vented metal piece pictured on the ceiling of your shower part of the steam unit or an additional vent you installed? I have never seen that.
I noticed your comment on the air tub and will be installing a self cleaning Bain Ultra one also this week. Any specific tips, techniques, etc. I should be aware of? What is the Ram Board?

There is no Vented Metal Piece inside that steam shower. On the ceiling to the left with the little black holes - that is "Big Rain" from Dornbracht. It is a dual zone rain head and a wonderful shower fixture. You can turn off the center square and stand surrounded by water while your conditioner is doing it's thing.

The metal piece high on the right wall is Dornbracht's "Water Fall" - here the water pours out like someone is dumping a bucket of water on your head that never runs out. If you have thick hair it is the best way to wash out that soap.

With you air tub - take great care that no debris gets into the holes. I made the mistake of simply covering the unit and panic when the tought of debris in the lines entered my head. Normally we install Air tubs as stand alone pieces but that tub we are building into a shower and features a waterfall Ledgestone feature. Little bits of cement rocks fell from the cleaning process of the backer board.

We vaccumed them up then ran the self cleaning cycle to inspect that all air holes where working. Thankfully they are.

Ram Board is a protective board we use to protect clients counters, floors, tile assembly's, door jambs and just about anything else you can think off.

JW

**johnfrwhipple** · 09-24-2012, 02:11 PM

Metal Accent Detail

Here is a look at the detail I was mentioning

It is a Aluminum Flat Bar stock attached to the bottom of the Side Gables and Kick.

I first say this done some 8 years back doing a Kitchen Renovation with Ultimate Kitchens here in Vancouver. I love the function and look of this detail.

JW

**jla** · 09-26-2012, 05:29 AM

So about what width is that metal piece--1/2"? The pictures are great, thanks.

**johnfrwhipple** · 09-26-2012, 05:42 AM

Closer to 5/8" - 3/4".

I didn't think to measure but I'm assuming the millowork is made from 5/8" or 3/4" stock that has the veneer adhered to it.

JW

**jla** · 09-27-2012, 03:18 PM

Interesting that the shower glass installer was here and had several comments concerning transoms. His experience transoms is that the hardware(hinges) on the transoms is not available in any kind of quality material and he has found that this hardware has to be replaced every 3-4 years. He has also found that the few customers that do have a transom in this area do not use them much. They just don't bother to open and close them on a regular basis and the transoms,being a separate opening, also allow for more steam to escape (which wouldn't happen if the older framed shower doors were used). Have you heard this in BC?

**johnfrwhipple** · 09-28-2012, 05:24 AM

Originally Posted by jla

Interesting that the shower glass installer was here and had several comments concerning transoms. His experience transoms is that the hardware(hinges) on the transoms is not available in any kind of quality material and he has found that this hardware has to be replaced every 3-4 years. He has also found that the few customers that do have a transom in this area do not use them much. They just don't bother to open and close them on a regular basis and the transoms,being a separate opening, also allow for more steam to escape (which wouldn't happen if the older framed shower doors were used). Have you heard this in BC?

Escaping steam is a problem of course. The glazers have these little T-moldings and something can be rigged up. Adding a transom adds to the total opening size and does so right at the top. Steam is still getting out regardless you will have roughly 180 linear inches of door gap at 1/8" thick with a frameless install - maybe a little less.

We have never replaced a transom.

I have heard on hundreds of occasions all sorts of bull shit from sub trades that make no sense. Most crews like to do every job the same. If they don't instal transoms then maybe call two more glazers that do.

You can always leave the door open!

JW