Construction questions on steam shower and bath reno

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jla

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After listening to both John and Jim on this forum, I am going to be posting questions I may run into while construction is begun on my bathroom reno which includes a Thermasol steam shower as well as an air tub, heated floor, and 6' vanity with double sinks.
1. Is it necessary to do a tile "test board"? I am told this is apparently not a common practice.
2. The slope on the steam shower ceiling will be about 6". Is that ok?
3. There will be a 24 hr. flood test. Is that adequate as opposed to 72 hr which was mentioned by John?
Thank you for all of your help.
 

Jadnashua

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1. It can help you visualize the tile spacing, grout color, and placement to help you decide before you commit to the whole job, but no, it isn't essential.
2. That may be more than needed...I'd have to look it up to be sure, but I would think a minimum of 1/4" per foot.
3. If it doesn't leak in 24-hours, it's unlikely to leak in 72, but if you have the time, it won't hurt. The longer it sits, the more you have to account for evaporation, otherwise, you'll get a false indication when it does drop some. But, it would disclose wicking or leaks into the wall or floor, if you have access to see it (which may not be the case for all sides).
 

jla

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John,
I would like to run everything by you as far as proper steps taken, materials used, etc. concerning my steam shower. My reno is at the point where studs are in, and the electrical and plumbing is underway. At this point, I want to make sure I am asking all of the correct questions. Besides asking what the process of waterproofing and vapor proofing will be, is there anything else I should ask as far as any products/materials used for membranes, sealing,etc. before any further work is done and walls go up?
 

jla

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Curb question: For the steam shower is a synthetic shower curb preferable to a natural stone curb or doesn't it really make a significant difference? Thanks.
Vanity question: Because there is a steam shower, is one wood preferable over another as far as vanity material? I am considering cherry.
 

jla

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John,
That would be great if you had a picture of the metal accent for the vanity or had a name for it and/or description.
The curb sold at our tile store is a 6 x 48 synthetic and has a threshold for our entrance to match which is 4-1/2 x 36.
Also, what is best to use joining all around the ceiling of the shower to the shower tile walls? Is bullnose the best or a metal strip like a schluter?
Thanks again.
 

jla

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John,
I would like to get information on a frameless,clear glass shower door choice and installation for the steam shower. Is it best to have a transom at the top or no--pros and cons? It would seem that a transom would be preferable especially when the steam is not in use.There is one vent fan in the bathroom (outside the shower).The standard glass thickness is 3/8" and I will assume that is fine. Fyi-shower height is 94", shower dimensions are
57" x 40". The shower placement is on a bit of an angle between the entrance door and the tub (the tub deck forms the seat of the shower). This would make the glass door hinged on the left side, opening towards the bathroom entrance door. As far as making sure hinges are sealed properly, I have read your comment about not using silicone to fill the drill holes but I thought silicone was used properly to fill in plumbing fixtures (shower controls,head, etc.)at some point. Also, any opinion about the "protection" baked into the glass for easy cleaning,reduction of bacterial growth, etc.? Would love info of the metal accent detail of the vanity. Your help has been invaluable and is much appreciated.
(by the way, I totally misunderstood my contractor on my previous question about the ceiling/wall shluter so ignore, sorry).
 

Jadnashua

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Have you ever used Rain-X or one of the competing products on your car's windshield? Have you ever had a pair of glasses made with the Crizal AR coating? The coatings fill in the microscopic valleys of the glass and make it 'smoother'. Stuff doesn't stick as easily, and water beads up and flows off easier similar to a recently waxed car. Whether is it a huge difference or not, it will make some difference. It's up to you whether you wish to spend the money for it. See if your glass supplier can show you a sample both with and without - run some water over it, wipe it off, see what you think.
 

jla

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Can you describe the basic installation of the shower glass door using the Kerdi Fix and what to avoid? I want to have specifics to discuss it with the glass installer.
As far as the metal piece for the cabinet, it may be fine to just have a description although I think I have about a week for cabinet delivery unless it will be problematic to locate the additional metal accent.
Thanks, John.
 

jla

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Also, is the vented metal piece pictured on the ceiling of your shower part of the steam unit or an additional vent you installed? I have never seen that.
I noticed your comment on the air tub and will be installing a self cleaning Bain Ultra one also this week. Any specific tips, techniques, etc. I should be aware of? What is the Ram Board?
 

jla

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So about what width is that metal piece--1/2"? The pictures are great, thanks.
 

jla

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Interesting that the shower glass installer was here and had several comments concerning transoms. His experience transoms is that the hardware(hinges) on the transoms is not available in any kind of quality material and he has found that this hardware has to be replaced every 3-4 years. He has also found that the few customers that do have a transom in this area do not use them much. They just don't bother to open and close them on a regular basis and the transoms,being a separate opening, also allow for more steam to escape (which wouldn't happen if the older framed shower doors were used). Have you heard this in BC?
 
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