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Thread: Delay from when pressure switch clicks and pump turns on

  1. #46
    DIY Junior Member Bobo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by valveman View Post
    Then it is pumping max flow from the very start. How many GPM is the pump?
    Not sure. The only thing I can find at the moment is the drilling report.
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  2. #47
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Is there a HP written on the control box? I think with the amps and the HP on a well running pump, a knowledgeable pump/wellman would be able to estimate the GPM rating.

    One way to calculate the GPM is if the draincock at the tank is large enough, draw off water at such a rate that the pressure holds steady, neither rising nor falling. Then time how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket and do the math.

    I see in the report, the static water level is or at least was at the time 150 feet. The pump is set 20 feet off the bottom at 260 feet giving you 110 feet of reserve. Looks like they rated the well recovery at 10 GPM.

    Have you given thought to putting a pressure gauge at the wellhead where the PRV is?

  3. #48
    DIY Junior Member Bobo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    Is there a HP written on the control box? I think with the amps and the HP on a well running pump, a knowledgeable pump/wellman would be able to estimate the GPM rating.

    One way to calculate the GPM is if the draincock at the tank is large enough, draw off water at such a rate that the pressure holds steady, neither rising nor falling. Then time how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket and do the math.

    I see in the report, the static water level is or at least was at the time 150 feet. The pump is set 20 feet off the bottom at 260 feet giving you 110 feet of reserve. Looks like they rated the well recovery at 10 GPM.

    Have you given thought to putting a pressure gauge at the wellhead where the PRV is?
    Control box is rated for 1 to 1.5 hp. Nothing noted about actual pump installed.

    I will install the additional pressure gauge next. I guess that may tell the story if there is only a check valve at the switch and pump? Any idea of the thread size on the PRV?
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  4. #49
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    no checkvalve, but all this babble on vacuum has no meaning because there may be multiple check valves, holes, leaks, and water standing at 50 feet or less. That skews your physics. Send it to that bald guy on tv that plays with these conundrums.

  5. #50
    DIY Junior Member Bobo's Avatar
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    Found the invoice. pump is a Gould 10GS15, motor 1.5 hp Franklin, only one check valve on the invoice, sch 80 1.25 PVC.

    Timing changed a little. Still about 30 seconds from cut-in to increased pressure but an addition 9 seconds from pressure to cut-out (maybe a hole is getting bigger). I still plan on adding the extra pressure gauge and the driller that dug the well has a portable "pul a pump". Quote over the phone was $3000 with new pump.
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  6. #51
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Well... there's your answer about the thread size of the PRV. You could Tee in a regular hose bib and then use a pressure gauge that screws onto it. You could hold your thumb over it and see if there is a vacuum.

    Pretty cheap drilling back then. Wonder what the cost would be today? Here they are demanding $48 per foot. My neighbor had to go down 300 feet and then had to frac it to get enough recovery.

    Maybe a couple of strong men could yard that out by hand, given that the downpipe is PVC and if it doesn't hold water, won't weigh nearly as much. Maybe you could even pump air into the pipe and float it part way out.. J/K. Do you have a hole in the roof for the pipe to go through?

  7. #52
    DIY Junior Member Bobo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    Maybe a couple of strong men could yard that out by hand, given that the downpipe is PVC and if it doesn't hold water, won't weigh nearly as much. Maybe you could even pump air into the pipe and float it part way out.. J/K. Do you have a hole in the roof for the pipe to go through?
    Pulling it myself has been on my mind for while. I have 2 strong brother in laws and 2 nephew football players that could help me.

    I built the well house so it can be removed in sections. The roof will come off in 1 piece. I'll probably need everyone over to lift it off though. I should have put a metal roof on it.
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  8. #53
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    You can pull that by hand with just one of those guys. Just drill a hole in the roof and patch it later. Or put in a skylite.

  9. #54
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ballvalve View Post
    Just drill a hole in the roof and patch it later. Or put in a skylite.
    I was thinking a fake stack vent.

  10. #55
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    And one of the guys can pull from the roof - piece of cake!

  11. #56
    DIY Junior Member Bobo's Avatar
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    LOL... Appreciated all the great renovation ideas!!!!!

    Actually I'm having Bee Cave Drilling replace the pump Today. I got a contract on my house and I guess they would rather have a reputable company do the job then me and my lackies.

    Thanks for all the great knowledge!!!!

  12. #57
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Awe shucks... I wanted to see a pic of the football player on the roof.

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