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Thread: Fleck 2500 control valve and help with softener maintenance

  1. #31
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Your current system is one of the best units available. It is extremely reliable, easy to maintain, the only negative is the lack of a meter. Many municipalities now require the installation of a meter or sensor device on all new water softener installations. For your application, it might save you a bag of salt per year, so it is really not a big deal. It would be hard to justify replacing it for that. If it were a sears unit, or home depot special, I would recommend replacing it after that many years.

    Congrats onhaving a great high quality unit!

  2. #32
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Congrats onhaving a great high quality unit!
    Thanks; wish I could take credit for it. The guy that installed it was highly recommended in the neighborhood. Gave me what I thought at the time was a good price. Now I'm not so sure, but it's a case of his knowing where to hit it, if you remember the old water heater repair joke. Didn't need no steenking water test, just put it in, told me to keep the chlorine tank and brine tank filled, and left. That was 11 years ago, so I guess I shouldn't have any complaints. But being a retired engineer, I had to know more about it, and now I do -- thanks, guys!

    One more question, though -- while I was poking around in the unit trying to take its picture, I noticed the timer motor was hotter'n a 2-dollar pistol. Is this normal?

  3. #33
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    Thanks, Gary. I do have a black cam (which the 2510 manual calls an "STF" cam). Haven't noticed any BLFC stickers but I'll look for it. If a new valve would save water & salt, I'd maybe be interested, but I wonder what you mean by replacing the "whole softener". All that's left if I replace the valve is the tank and the brine tank, which don't look like they need replacing. Unless the tailpiece and bypass assembly wouldn't mate up with the new valve, presumably a Fleck of some kind? If I do change, now is the time, since I'm rearranging the whole system for several reasons.
    If you price a metered valve and compare it to the price of a whole new softener, (that includes new resin too) you won't pay much more than the price of the new valve. Then you could sell your present unit for a couple hundred... or give it to someone that can't afford to buy one.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
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    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  4. #34
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    If you price a metered valve and compare it to the price of a whole new softener, (that includes new resin too) you won't pay much more than the price of the new valve. Then you could sell your present unit for a couple hundred... or give it to someone that can't afford to buy one.
    Yeah, I just found that out this morning, but haven't made any serious calls yet. Several vendors even throw in a free SS bypass valve, which I don't need, but WTH. For now I'm going to stick with the old reliable 2510, but will keep the metered option in the back of my mind, and maybe put one on my **** watch list.

  5. #35
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The timer motor on that unit runs very hot, this is normal. The mechanical designs always leave a motor running so excessive heat will build up.

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