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Thread: Got a Clack today - 2 questions so far

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Glowrdr's Avatar
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    Default Got a Clack today - 2 questions so far

    So I had a Clack installed after some research, i have 2 quick questions.

    First (probably being a big one actually) - is there a way to tell what "model" it is I've got? Besides the pictures on the internet, I've got nothing that actually says Clack on it. I don't know if I have a WS1, or WS1.25. I removed the cover, but see no obvious numbers that seem to tell me what it is.

    Secondly - it just finished it's very first cycle (was installed about 2 hours ago). In the sink that it drains into - there is probably 1/2 cup of resin in the bottom of the sink. Is this normal, or does this signify that there is a leak somewhere in the mineral tank and my resin is escaping?


    You know, after typing this all out - I'm feeling a little insecure. I had the installation done, and they gave me all the information I needed to make a comfortable decision at the time. Then when I agreed on price, they took their little book with them. I'm sure I will be happy with it (10 year warranty, including labor) - but if someone asked me what size, I have no idea what I've got. They showed me 4 sizes, and I picked the 2nd to the largest size (which I know means nothing to you). I'll have to look through the manual and see what I can dig up. I did a quick browse through it though, and saw no mention of Clack anywhere (which is why I asked the above question)

  2. #2
    DIY Junior Member Glowrdr's Avatar
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    OK - so it seems like the WS1 and 1.25 signifies the line size. Pretty sure I've got the standard 1" so that solves 1 mystery. Now I'm just kind of double checking the settings to ensure everything is set correctly (i.e. he has mine set to regen every 14 days - not sure if that's good or bad)

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    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Can't say if it's set right without knowing your water conditions and use.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

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    DIY Junior Member Glowrdr's Avatar
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    First hardness test was 23 gpg, today it tested at 17. Not sure who was right, or if it can fluctuate that much in a couple of weeks.

    2 people, 1.75 baths (only 1 in use though). Unsure of any other specs of the water. Mineral tank is 10x54. Brine tank is 15x17x35

    Anything else I am missing? Also wondering about the resin in my sink (if its normal or not for a first flush)

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    DIY Junior Member Glowrdr's Avatar
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    OK, think I may be getting this. So if I have ~20gpg hardness x 2 people x 60 gallons/day = 19200 grains a week. So since I've got a 48k grain tank, it would be set correctly to replenish @ 14 days (or metered usage, whichever comes first)

    Sound about right, or am I over simplifying things to a point of failure?

  6. #6
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    If your hardness has stabilized at 20gpg then 14 days is correct yes.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The WS1.25 will have a small grey plug on the right side of the valve just below the injector cap. If it is all black, it is a WS1. Both valves look identical externally, only internal changes are made.
    Resin out of the drain... this can happen for a few reasons. If you did not flood the system and let it set for a short amount of time prior to backwashing, the air in the system will definetly lift some of the resin out. If you have a top screen, this should not have occurred, but on start up, the rush of resin to the top screen can crush the cheaper version of the clack top screen. We only use the heavy version top screen to prevent problems due to improper start up. If the systems DLFC was not adjusted for the water temperature, this can also cause the problem. Colder water will use a smaller flow control. Can you post a picture of your system so we can get more details?

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    DIY Junior Member Glowrdr's Avatar
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    This thing is almost as tall as I am, so I just kind of held my phone above the unit and took a picture - hope I got what was needed. Also noticed water in the brine tank - wasn't sure if that's normal or not (only 1 bag of salt in there now). I've read where it sounds like the brine tank can be dry between cycles? I think I'm set for post fill though, not pre.







    Thanks for all the help guys. I can only research so much before I start getting into areas that I'm unfamiliar with. I wouldn't want to start messing with upflow/downflow, cycle timing, grains, etc without some guidance. At the same time, I do know that factory defaults may not always be the best solution

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    It is hard to tell by the picture, but is it a mtered valve? Their should be a grey electrical cable coming out of the left side of the valve, see your picture #1. If it is not metered... sigh... It is not even legal in many states to sell residential softeners without metering devices or sensors. It does not surprise me some companies still sell or promote timeclock based systems. The funny thing is, if they did sell you a timeclock, with that electonic head, they really didnt save more than $20 You actual system capacity would be closer to 36,000 grains if it is set for 8 pounds of salt per cu. ft. I would recommend going through the programming and see what they set the salt to. It should be set to 12 pounds, or less.

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    DIY Junior Member Glowrdr's Avatar
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    It is metered - probably can't tell from the picture, but I have it set to the gallons left til refresh setting, rather than the time. I'll check the settings (once I figure it out) and post back. I'm assuming that's what you mean by metered?

    **standing in front of it now, there is a grey cable - just hard to see it in the pic (follow the red tie holding my manual down, and it's there)
    Last edited by Glowrdr; 08-16-2012 at 02:00 PM.

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member Glowrdr's Avatar
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    Capacity - 32000
    Regen - 12 pounds
    Normal (?) - other choice was Backwash
    Regen - Auto
    Post Refill
    Downflow
    Regen Normal
    C2 (?)

  12. #12
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I am glad to hear that it is a metered valve. Your settings look fine. The only changes you may want to make are to increase the salt efficiency, but you will lose some water efficiency. For most areas, salt efficiency is much more important than water efficiency.

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    DIY Junior Member Glowrdr's Avatar
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    Thanks for checking thins over for me - definately a learning curve to this stuff when you're starting out.

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    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    The resin in the sink happens at start up in some cases but should not continue more than a few times. The guy should have filled the tank with water with the control in the BW position so as not to trap air in the top of the tank. And there was no need to do a regeneration unless they didn't fill the tank properly and move the control through its positions and let it add water to the salt tank. If they didn't add water to the salt tank, there was noe to dissolve any salt and there was no regeneration of the resin.

    They owe you at least a service manual.

    If you know Clack valves the picture of the face of the control valve says/shows that it is a metered valve.

    You need to use 23 gpg since the water has tested at that mount of hardness even if it has tested at less later. City water varies that much and at times more than that much. If you don't use the highest hardness some capacity is used but not regenerated and that leads to hardness getting through the softener later.

    You have a 1.5 cuft (45K) softener. And the only way you get 45K is to use 22.5 lbs of salt.

    Why 32K?

    What number of gallons are you programing?

    Normal backwash is good. As to the last Normal, I always had my customers use Normal + 0. And Pre refill which keeps the salt tank 'cleaner' and reduces bridging problems.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
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    DIY Junior Member Glowrdr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    They owe you at least a service manual.

    You have a 1.5 cuft (45K) softener. And the only way you get 45K is to use 22.5 lbs of salt.

    Why 32K?

    What number of gallons are you programing?

    Normal backwash is good. As to the last Normal, I always had my customers use Normal + 0. And Pre refill which keeps the salt tank 'cleaner' and reduces bridging problems.
    I actually do have the manual for it, but even though I've read through it, I really don't know what I'm looking for to even pick out the good stuff. That's kind of how I know the pre/post fill info and what some of the numbers mean (I know the lingo, but not how that affects my situation basically)

    As far as 32k - no idea why it's setup like that. Sounds like that is something I should be changing then - Assuming that the timer doesn't know what size mineral tank it's on due to that info.
    You also asked about the gallons programmed - I recall it's somewhere around 18k, but I cannot confirm that for sure. I guess I didn't realize that wasn't part of the info I read from the unit in the post above. The reason I'm guessing it's 18k is because the picture above shows 17k, and that was with less than 24 hours on the unit.

    I think I do like the idea of the prefill better for a couple of reasons, and I will try to find what the Normal + 0 setting means just for my understanding, and will more than likely use that setting as well.

    How about the 32k/45k setting with the 22.5 lbs of salt (is that saying to use 22 for regen?) If that is the case - would it be more efficiant for me to keep it's current settings since I would be wasting salt, or is the tank not regening completely because it's not getting enough salt through it to cleanse all the resin?

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