You are fortunate in that you have a ready supply of water under pressure. My father and I had to haul water a half mile from a creek and use a gas powered pump.
Use the pump you have to boost the city water pressure for jetting. You can make a jetting nozzle from a F/F reducing coupler. Cut several slots through the threads with a hacksaw or triangle file to create a spray pattern, some shooting forward, but most shooting backward up the casing. Google for sewer jetting nozzles for an idea of the spray pattern.
You have an expert in the well business in your area that gave you some great advice. I would listen to what he said about your set-up.
Skip all the 1.5" thinking and sand point attempts. The sand is probably getting in because there is a hole in the casing up high. Anytime you have enough sand to fill up the suction line then you have problems.
Do yourself a favor-get the biggest air compressor you can. A 5-HP gasoline portable will work. Drop an air line down the well with a "T" on top. Stuffing rag with the line going down the top, short section of 2" to divert the water away from you. Blow it. See how much water it makes and how much sand is coming out.
Here is a pic of a 2.5" well (ignore the home-made 2.5x2" adapter under the plastic "T") being blown. Well made about 15 gpm using a 5-HP gasoline portable compressor.
id bet 100$ the well isnt 30' deep and it's not a mud well... ive never even heard of a mud well. IT SHOULD TAKE WATER, even at shallow table. The hole in casing has let so much sand in that the well is stopped up. don't use 1.5".. Use 1" glued together hooked to a water hose and start pushing the pipe down washing out the inside of the casing. eventually the water and sand will quit coming out because the well will start taking water. Then you are gonna need to pump it off best you can and line it with that 1" pipe with a 2x1 packer keeping the seal inside the casing. U'll need to set it probably 20-30' off the bottom of the total well depth. if you do this correctly it will fix your well. you will not be able to use your well if you dont line out that hole. The sand will keep coming back and get worse. jmo, take it or leave it..
Last edited by justwater; 08-04-2012 at 11:36 AM.
Not sure what the criteria is for that $100 bet. But you can see the 1" well pipe on the ground in one of my photos and it is 30'. I have no idea about the 2" casing though.
I assume this 2 x1 packer is something that fits tight in side the 2" casing to seal it off. Where do I get that from. I am not sure what you mean by set it 20-30' off the bottom of the well. The PVC pipe is 30'.
You'll need more than 30' of 1" PVC. I'd start with 60' and might need more. Hook it to water hose and wash it in the 2" pipe. Wash it down as far as it will let u. This will open the well back up and tell you total well depth.
I don't know where you can get a 2x1 seal. Hardware stores sell leather ones that are use in deepwell jets. U just squeeze it between 2 glued couplings. only problem with them is if you happen to push it too deep and go past the casing, it doesnt want to come up. You can't set the seal at the very bottom or you will block off the rock. It needs to be set higher inside the casing. for instance, a well may be 80' total depth, but only 60' of 2" casing.. with the last 20' being open hole through rock. I can set a seal perfectly right at the bottom of the casing and the well will never pump sand again.
not sure what else I can tell u here.. either you get it or you don't.
A mud well is a well that was never drilled right to start with and instead of fixing it right you get the wool pulled over your eyes and end up spending lots of wasted time and energy dealing with the fictious "mud well".
By the way, are you saying you think the 2" casing goes down a lot further than the 1" PVC well pipe?
Last edited by rwbil; 08-04-2012 at 12:08 PM.
U dont follow instructions well. I didn't say anything about a sand point, and didn't say anything about 1.25" pipe. Use a well point and it will soon clog then the sand will act like Chinese hand cuffs and you won't pull it out with a crane. Wash 1" down to the bottom, not just until it takes water. Then set a seal 20-30' above the very bottom using 1" pipe with 2x1 on bottom. Then plumb back to pump with an inline check valve at front of pump.
Yes, the 2" pipe goes down farther than the 1" drop pipe. the drop pipe is in there because it's more reliable than pulling strait off that 2" steel pipe. The water level will stay the same so you can still use your pump even when hooked to a much deeper 1" pipe.
Last edited by justwater; 08-04-2012 at 12:54 PM.
I doubt I am going to be able to do the seal thing. I think this well has collapsed and I really need a new well. I am just trying to get a temporary fix so I can drill a new well later. Assuming I can clear out the sand I am either going to put back the foot valve or the well point. If the well point will not work then I will probably put back the foot valve.
..... good luck.
I'll bet you $1100 I can fix your well and get you sand-free clear water pumping again. i'll warranty if for 3 yrs but it will last as long as pvc pipe lasts. if its a shallow screen well or a "mud well" u don't owe me a dime. If I can't fix it u don't owe me a dime. just a thought.
Last edited by justwater; 08-04-2012 at 02:39 PM.
Maybe I could leave that 1" pipe down 60'. but I do not think my jet pump would work or it might not be good for the jet pump.
On your proposal, what exactly would you install. I want a shallow well that will work with my jet pump and I am not looking to spend alot. If it gets to expensive I would look at other options whereby I do not even need a well pump. Exactly what do you charge and exactly what do you provide at that price. Galvanized Steel or PVC. Type of check valve and etc.
Right now I am thinking I need to try and install another shallow well several feet from that well.
The one thing I am still not sure about is the problem a 2" casing issue, which means I could dig another well in the same area or do I have to dig much further away.
Last edited by rwbil; 08-04-2012 at 03:27 PM.
60'? What do u know, i might actually know what I'm talking about. could have 60' of casing and the rock pecked out rather than drilled.. It was common practice with wells older than about 25 yrs. Or there's even a chance your well is deeper but someone dropped an old drop pipe in the bottom and rather than get it out they just installed another. Slim chance but I've seen alot of crazy things. Even with the pipe down 60', the water level is still shallow table, not sure how to make u understand this.
Another shallow well? Ur well is not a shallow well if u got down 60'. you may or may not be able to even get a shallow screened well where u are.
There is no well you could install that wouldn't require a pump of some kind. Even artesian freeflowing wells needs a pump as they only have about 6-8psi on them.
my proposal is just what I said.. to fix your well and get clear water back pumping.
Last edited by justwater; 08-04-2012 at 04:29 PM.
There has to be a reason your well is 60 feet deep so I doubt you can just drive a new sandpoint next to it.
I know others have jetted a shallow well in my area, so I think I would at least give it a try.
Maybe I will find out a shallow well point will not work in my area and that is why they had to create that 60' casing. Unfortunately I have no history on the home and why they did what they did.
In researching shallow and deep well, I have not seen my configuration. Do you know why one would install a 60' 2" casing, maybe down to rock and then install a 30' 1" PVC pipe inside that 2" pipe.