New Shower Valve

**jadnashua** · 08-02-2012, 12:32 PM

It looks like you're overheating the joints and burning out all of the flux. The magic to this is move the flame, test periodically to see if the solder can melt yet, and when it does, remove the heat, apply the rest of the solder then leave it alone to cool. If you're handy and can do it fast enough, you can use a rag to wipe excess off for asthetics. Wait too long, though and you can create more problems by maybe moving things as the solder is setting.

Personally, if you don't do this often, I've found differences in the fluxes available - some are much harder to get a good joint with than others. One often mentioned as being more friendly is a tinning flux - it has not only flux but powdered solder in it. You still need to add solder to get a waterproof joint, but it sort of pre-tins it for you to help things along.

**chefwong** · 08-02-2012, 03:24 PM

-- Go figure. I would have used a street 90 myself....never knew you could just put a stub and flux right to the brass like that...

- To the OP. Can I suggest taking some scrap short copper, clamping it horizontal or vertical and practice sweating before doing that on your fixtures. Don't get me wrong...I'm sure it's all leak free and all, but with a little practice, I'm sure those joints will look a whole lot better !

**tommy7** · 08-02-2012, 03:26 PM

After 2 trying days and help from Jim, Jimbo and Terry, I finally got it. No leaks..... yet. Which leads to my next question....

If it does not leak now, what are the likelyhood is will leak 30, 60, 90 days from now. Should i wait a certain period of time before I put up the cbu?

I've attached pictures, if you pros see anything out of the ordinary, I sure would appreciate your advice!!!

**tommy7** · 08-02-2012, 03:28 PM

That is exactly what I spent this afternoon doing! Good call. Practicing, that is.

**chefwong** · 08-02-2012, 09:53 PM

Too much heat, too much solder, etc, etc - regardless of leak free can be a bad thing. A lil money on fittings to learn how to get the feel would be a +++

If you have not planned for it, definately put some blocking where the valve is.

**tommy7** · 08-04-2012, 06:22 AM

The water is on and the pipes are still not leaking.

However, I feel I could do a much better job now that I have learned so much from this website and my experience.

I don't really care about the asthetics, which I know I could improve.

I don't want to lose a night of sleep wondering if they are leaking behind the drywall and tile.

I am considering redoing the valve connection.

I read somewhere online that, "If they don't leak in the first coupla minutes, they won't leak in the next coupla centuries."

Is this statement true?

Would I be wasting my time redoing it? Can you improve on non-leaking joint connections?

Thanks!

**johnfrwhipple** · 08-04-2012, 08:04 AM

Originally Posted by tommy7

After 2 trying days and help from Jim, Jimbo and Terry, I finally got it. No leaks..... yet. Which leads to my next question....

If it does not leak now, what are the likelyhood is will leak 30, 60, 90 days from now. Should i wait a certain period of time before I put up the cbu?

I've attached pictures, if you pros see anything out of the ordinary, I sure would appreciate your advice!!!

A 200lb pressure test will put those connections to the test. I hate covering any pipe that has not been tested under pressure. Much of the United States do not require these test like our local plumbing code mandates. It is a simple test that can give you great piece of mind. I would only pressure test the new work so isolating this from the rest of the home might be difficult.

Sweating Brass to copper is tricker than copper to copper. I notice many plumbers double flux. Like Jim mentioned heating the brass and not the copper is a key step. Once close many of my plumbers will re-brush on some flux just before sodering.

JW