Caulk SOS did I do it wrong!?

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CherylS

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OK guys. I think I screwed up....

I just caulked my new shower door, about three hours ago. Taped the frame and tile at the seam, ran my bead of caulk, then smoothed it out, then removed the tape! I was supposed to remove tape and THEN smooth the bead, wasn't I!!???

The caulk fills the seam...barely. Looks good but I'm concerned that it won't be a good seal. Please advise ASAP. I need to be able to use this shower in a day or two.


thanks!
 

JohnfrWhipple

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OK guys. I think I screwed up....

I just caulked my new shower door, about three hours ago. Taped the frame and tile at the seam, ran my bead of caulk, then smoothed it out, then removed the tape! I was supposed to remove tape and THEN smooth the bead, wasn't I!!???

The caulk fills the seam...barely. Looks good but I'm concerned that it won't be a good seal. Please advise ASAP. I need to be able to use this shower in a day or two.


thanks!

I tape the space.

Run the bead of silicone.

Smooth with my finger in both directions (creates better bond).

Remove the tape.

And re-smooth in a downward motion.

The last step removes some of the ridges created by the tape line.

JW
 

CherylS

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Ok, I am now in the process of removing the caulk..... new shower doors, brushed nickel. What can I use to get the residue off the door frame before I re-caulk?
 

JohnfrWhipple

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I just wipe my finger on a rag. I've never had good luck with spirits or thinner and silicone.

With a latex chaulking I like to finish with a wet finger but with silicone I find a dry finger best.

JW
 

Dlarrivee

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I think you just learned the hard way that silicone is the toughest caulk to remove...

You probably would have been fine.
 

Chefwong

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Ya'll must have some magic fingers when tooling silicone.

Tape
Chaulk
Let it set for about a minute.....then tool it with finger dipped in mineral spirits.
Remove tape
Viola
 

CherylS

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that's what I did and it looked good, but was a little don't know how to explain other than to say an edge to it...I was concerned that water would get under there....
 

CherylS

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that's what I did.....but had the ridges, or an edge. I was concerned that water would get under there?? Anyway, any suggestions for what to use to get the residue off?
 

JohnfrWhipple

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that's what I did.....but had the ridges, or an edge. I was concerned that water would get under there?? Anyway, any suggestions for what to use to get the residue off?

An old school flat razor blade - the kind you buy for old fashioned razors. Paint stores sell them in 3 - 10 or 100 piece packs. First you gently cut the silicone with the tip of the blade where you want your edge to stop. Then with the razor flat you slide it along the glass to remove any film.

We drag the edge of the blade across or finger nail to ensure there are no burns in the edge.

Pick up an old mirror or scrap of glass from somewhere and practice. The key is not so much pressure you mark the glass and ensure when using the blade on the long flat side you keep it full contact with the glass.

You need to weigh the risk reward here. One screw up and you have a permanent scratch. Does it really bug you that much?

Not sure what you paid for the product and installation but I'd practice a bit before you jump in. And practice with the glass vertical like it is now not flat on the table.

"Perfect Practice Makes Perfect"

"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions"

You only need to screw up a job or two before this point is really driven home.

Good Luck.

JW
 
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