BDrivenByDemons
Member
Take a look and tell me what you think. This my current setup. I put it all in myself when I built my house in 2008. High iron/hardness.
I installed this layout per the directions that came with the terminator. I currently have 3 issues I would like to solve.
#1 - The air valve is a POS. It works but severely restricts the flow from the pump to that tank. Seems to me it's putting an extra load on the pump but I did get a 3/4HP pump to be safe. I keep meaning to put an amp-clamp on the pump and see what the current differential is when I bypass it.
#2 - The bladder tank is fouling up with iron because it precipitates out here first. Do not want.
#3 - I have iron bacteria that I can eradicate with a bleach cleaning as described on this site but I have to do it again a year or so later and I read somewhere the bleaching isn't good to do over and over.
This is my new idea...
Here's my thinking.
#1 - New air injector (or possibly chlorine injector??) that won't restrict flow as bad. A compressible air pump of some sort would cause zero restriction I'm thinking.
#2 - Put the mixing/precip tank first in line. I've read where some of you ONLY use this tank. It's also your pressure tank. I tried this and it causes the pump to cycle a lot more often. There's simply not enough air in this thing for that to be feasible. I'm thinking I run the works through the terminator system then store that iron free water in the bladder downstream. About the check valve - That mixing tank does not tolerate reverse flow well. I put the check valve there to prevent that (yes, I've read about multiple check valves but I can't imagine a situation where I would get negative pressure with the small air buffer in that tank).
#3 - Should I forget the air injector and use a chlorine injector instead to oxidize/precipitate the iron and kill the iron bacteria? I have heard of them but have no experience at all. Would you then need to somehow remove the chlorine before the softener so I don't destroy my resin???
And for those wondering I like to run my hose bibs after the iron remover to keep my driveway from turning brown.
Criticize, critique, destroy my new plan and tell me what I'm doing wrong. I tried to be as detailed as possible and drew the nice pictures to make it easy to follow. I want to fix this once and be done with it.
I installed this layout per the directions that came with the terminator. I currently have 3 issues I would like to solve.
#1 - The air valve is a POS. It works but severely restricts the flow from the pump to that tank. Seems to me it's putting an extra load on the pump but I did get a 3/4HP pump to be safe. I keep meaning to put an amp-clamp on the pump and see what the current differential is when I bypass it.
#2 - The bladder tank is fouling up with iron because it precipitates out here first. Do not want.
#3 - I have iron bacteria that I can eradicate with a bleach cleaning as described on this site but I have to do it again a year or so later and I read somewhere the bleaching isn't good to do over and over.
This is my new idea...
Here's my thinking.
#1 - New air injector (or possibly chlorine injector??) that won't restrict flow as bad. A compressible air pump of some sort would cause zero restriction I'm thinking.
#2 - Put the mixing/precip tank first in line. I've read where some of you ONLY use this tank. It's also your pressure tank. I tried this and it causes the pump to cycle a lot more often. There's simply not enough air in this thing for that to be feasible. I'm thinking I run the works through the terminator system then store that iron free water in the bladder downstream. About the check valve - That mixing tank does not tolerate reverse flow well. I put the check valve there to prevent that (yes, I've read about multiple check valves but I can't imagine a situation where I would get negative pressure with the small air buffer in that tank).
#3 - Should I forget the air injector and use a chlorine injector instead to oxidize/precipitate the iron and kill the iron bacteria? I have heard of them but have no experience at all. Would you then need to somehow remove the chlorine before the softener so I don't destroy my resin???
And for those wondering I like to run my hose bibs after the iron remover to keep my driveway from turning brown.
Criticize, critique, destroy my new plan and tell me what I'm doing wrong. I tried to be as detailed as possible and drew the nice pictures to make it easy to follow. I want to fix this once and be done with it.
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