Any Mud Men in Dah House

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Chefwong

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I have a *floor hatch*
Floor hatch is composed of 2 layers of 3/4 Baltic Birch, mud and then tile.
It's one heavy sunnva bitch.
I only really need access to open it when I need access to the main house cleanout and our main water shutoff. I have 2 pull latches to remove it

Fast forward to now.
The hatch is supported by 2 sides of the *Rough Opening*.
Due to the floor being raised with SLC, I addedfast setting mud (Mapecem) and ~scribed~ it with my homemade scribe with was the depth of the hatch.

The results were bleh - as there is a low spot on opposite sides of the form - so the hatch rocks.
I CAN use leveling legs screwed to the bottom of the hath cover but I'd prefer not to.


So I'm planning to get the chipping hammer out, remove some mud out of the form and plan to remud and make this work.

Picked up 2 large suction cup - glass handeleres -
I plan to mud, let it set for a bit (note the mud is rapidset), slowly lower the cover onto the form via holding it with the suction cup handles, and just press down.

I DON'T THINK THIS WILL WORK as I'm not *cutting* into it to screed it but just placing the heavy cover on to get it's level to the floor.

Suggestions. Ideas. I'm stumped.....

hatch.jpg
 

JohnfrWhipple

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A fun project. Perhaps use a bond breaker like Duct Tape and cover the hole with poly. Load up your mud and then tap it into position. I would not leave it in to long and then pull it back out. My only fear is that you pull up on the mortar and change the elevation.

Can you use some small screws as screed guides to get the hatch stable and then free hand the mud work?

Working with smaller sections I find that a Margin Float works well smoothing out the Mapecem Pre-Mix


JW
 

Chefwong

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JW. Not fun. Been avoiding this but the rooms are painted, trim is painted and ready to be cut and installed. Stairs are stained and waiting for 2nd coat of sealer. Been avoiding this forever ;-) But it's now due time.

The original form ....I did use a margin trowel to freehand smooth the *form* after using my wood scribe (block in the pic) to smooth the *form*

There is no strength when u mud thin to *patch*.
On one side of the form, it's low on the front .
On the other side, it's low on the left side.

Yeap. Was planning to use tape underneath the *lid* with a quick swipe of car wax as a bond breaker....
 
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JohnfrWhipple

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JW. Not fun. Been avoiding this but the rooms are painted, trim is painted and ready to be cut and installed. Stairs are stained and waiting for 2nd coat of sealer. Been avoiding this forever ;-) But it's now due time.

The original form ....I did use a margin trowel to freehand smooth the *form* after using my wood scribe (block in the pic) to smooth the *form*

There is no strength when u mud thin to *patch*.
On one side of the form, it's low on the front .
On the other side, it's low on the left side.

Yeap. Was planning to use tape underneath the *lid* with a quick swipe of car wax as a bond breaker....

If you have mud (pre-mix) there now use a little thinset first and then drop on the Mapecem. It's sticky but will hold in low lifts.

I like the idea of using lag bolts or large screws to adjust the latch. These can be fine tuned.

I'd say give it a go and if it's not right abort and go to plan "B".

I'm still laughing at the stair comment. I still have 2"x10" off cuts with nail in them as finished treads right now. The new Oak ones are sanded, filled, scraped and waiting for a finisher (me) for the last 18 months.... LOL
 

Chefwong

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Heh. There is a difference. You are a trades pro ....
I'm sure you have a finisher somewhere in your book.
I'm talking a true finisher. Someone who understands how grit affects sheen, how a scraper will look different than a area that is sanded, etc, etc.

The only true *pro* I've used forever is my cabinetmaker. He's worth the money I throw at him.
Out here in Gotham City, the only true pros are the ones working on multi million projects.
Like my friend, who just spent 700K just on windows alone. I'm not talking furnishings or trim. Just windows...
The level of craftsmanship out here IMO is either low or extremely high.
There is nothing in between.

Plan B is just a shortcut.....
A shortcut easily done by anyone.

Hence me being stubborn. I'll give it a go on round 2 and if it don't work' maybe I'll give plan B a go on Round 3.

I've seen your threads. You are blessed to be working with great builders and great leads, on great projects with your attention to details to boot. Good job !
 
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Chefwong

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NOTE : Don't ever take a call when working with rapidset.

Got 2 layers done. Was within a 1/4 of a layer from level. Final topping was going to be thinset.
Forgot how sticky thinset was...and I was using ice cooled water. We are in a 95+ degree heatwave.
So while waiting for the thinset to set.... I too a phone call that came in on my cell. By the time I got off the phone....knowing my thinset was setting up, it was too late. Started shaving it off with hard force on my margin trowel....

BUT, she's finished. The suction cup worked was the lifesaver.
Thanks Woods.

http://www.powrgrip.com/cgi-bin/powrgrip/index.html
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Lets see the finished job.

Maybe switch out those screws for some stainless ones. They will look better in your pictures.... lol

JW
 

Chefwong

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Screws are on a long laundry list of hardware....
It's too bad all the door chimes on the market look like schitz. That's the last thing on my hardware list I have to get.....and I've looked everywhere. I think I might suck it up, buy a mid century vintage one...and have one of the fabricators spruce it up.

Good eye....how could you tell they were SS vs. Chrome ;-)
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Screws are on a long laundry list of hardware....
It's too bad all the door chimes on the market look like schitz. That's the last thing on my hardware list I have to get.....and I've looked everywhere. I think I might suck it up, buy a mid century vintage one...and have one of the fabricators spruce it up.

Good eye....how could you tell they were SS vs. Chrome ;-)

They look like regular screws in the picture to me. I was suggesting to use stainless steel not chrome. I have a client that is very particular with the screw selection. We go to the trouble of buffing up stainless screws to look like polished chrome and we only use a standard screw with no Robinson screws allowed.

It has become habit to check any visable fastener and offer up upgrades. Just busting your chops..... :)
 

Chefwong

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I meant the handle......as in you picked up they it was SS.

And yes, the screw is a regular screw. Had to order SS screw. Yes, with *DECORATIVE* eyes, flathead , lined up is the way to go....just a classic look. I've gotta another room planned...with some dark dark iron and clearcoated brass screws with some walnut. Love the color and texture
 

Chefwong

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I know this is the shower and bathroom ~blog~ but I had to share.
I can finally breath and see the finish line.
Got flooded during Irene, been doing DIY every hour / weekend allows.....
Part of the built-ins just arrived and while the stairs is not 100% pitched right....see the bow in the middle, the cabinetmaker will be in the shop mocking up a fix. In the meantime, he nailed in the park on the conception of what I wanted.
progress.jpg
 
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