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Thread: Need Advice On How To Get The Leathers To Seal In A New 2" Driven Well

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member TM's Avatar
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    Good question. They are installed with the cups open to the well top. (beveled edge pointing up) I bought one more set today for a final try tomorrow. I carefully measured the pipe today and the inside diameter is 2 & 1/8th inches. While the new cups are dry, they rattle around very loosely in the pipe... I continue to wonder if this could be the problem.... I know they swell substantially when I soak them but it looks like alot of air space to fill.

  2. #17
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Cups open to top is correct. They will swell a little but they need to fit pretty tight to start with. I checked several and no 2" pipe in my shop measures 2 1/8" ID. That is almost 1/8" larger than I think it should be.

  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member TM's Avatar
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    Thanks so much for taking the time. I also found some domestic pipe yesterday just to see if there was a difference. it measures (as you said earlier in a post) just a hair over the 2 inch mark. My installed pipe is at least 1/16" inch larger.

    I pulled the packer and suction pipe today but I'm not sure what i am going to do at this point. would urge evryone to measure the pipes that are non-domestic before they install them...
    Quote Originally Posted by valveman View Post
    Cups open to top is correct. They will swell a little but they need to fit pretty tight to start with. I checked several and no 2" pipe in my shop measures 2 1/8" ID. That is almost 1/8" larger than I think it should be.

  4. #19
    Porky Cutter,MGWC Porky's Avatar
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    It has a spring dog to hold the bottom while turning to the right tightens the packer rubber.
    Porky Cutter, MGWC
    (Master Ground Water Consultant)

  5. #20
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    I would try the next size (2-1/4") leathers. If you think it would be too tight a fit going in, just don't soak them for so long.

  6. #21
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    It also helps to flare the leathers out with a screwdriver before you get them wet.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member TM's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. I have been looking on the net for the part but haven't found it yet...
    Quote Originally Posted by Porky View Post
    It has a spring dog to hold the bottom while turning to the right tightens the packer rubber.

  8. #23
    DIY Junior Member TM's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. I did try to pressure the well as you suggested earlier and I could fill it but the water dropped immediately when I stopped. The curious thing that I just noticed upon pulling the packer this last time is that I can seem to seal the pipe when it is out of the waterline but as soon as I put the packer back into the water depth it won't . Could that be from the small amount of water pressure around the cup????
    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    I would try the next size (2-1/4") leathers. If you think it would be too tight a fit going in, just don't soak them for so long.

  9. #24
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TM View Post
    Thanks for the info. I did try to pressure the well as you suggested earlier and I could fill it but the water dropped immediately when I stopped. The curious thing that I just noticed upon pulling the packer this last time is that I can seem to seal the pipe when it is out of the waterline but as soon as I put the packer back into the water depth it won't . Could that be from the small amount of water pressure around the cup????
    How much new 2'' well casing did you put in ?

    Sounds like you may be putting the packer below the Casing.

    Do you have a foot valve on your packer assembly ?
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  10. #25
    DIY Junior Member TM's Avatar
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    I have 36' feet of new case plus the 36" inch sandpoint on the end. I placed the suction line with 35 feet of pipe and the packer jet which should place the seals so that they are still 5 inches into the case (note that the sandpoint has about 6 inches of solid pipe before it transitions to the screen. ) Altogether I should have a ten to twelve inches of room for error, I measured my suction line the last time I pulled it out and my distances should be good to keep the leatheers within the case. I also pulled the suction line up a few feet just to test it to see if it would seal at a different spot but to no avail.

    Concerning the footvalve, I do have one attached to the end of the packer and it is functioning fine as Iv've had the opportunity to check it each time I have pulled the line.

    My one concern is that a coupling near the sandpoint may have cracked during the drive process (I used a Rhino post driver and it did not seem to hit too hard). Is their any wayto ensure that my case is intact? i was able to mount pressure in the pipe when I pumped water into it...
    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    How much new 2'' well casing did you put in ?

    Sounds like you may be putting the packer below the Casing.

    Do you have a foot valve on your packer assembly ?

  11. #26
    DIY Junior Member TM's Avatar
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    I put one final set of leathers on this afternoon and adjusted the suction lline up about another foot. The well did not seal and I began to raise it and check it at 5 foot increments. The pipe finally sealed above the waterline at about fifteen feet. This was just above my second casing joint, I believe the casing must have fractured at the fifteen foot joint as water exits the pipe rapidly just below this level. It looks like I will need to pull the case. Are there any easy methods????

    Thanks for all the input by everyone --it has truly been appreciated.

  12. #27
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TM View Post
    The well is 38' deep with eight feet of water in the pipe...
    8 feet of water is not much to work with. So by my calcs there is 15 feet of good casing and 15 feet of air to the water. What you could do is to put 23 feet of drop pipe on the footvalve and still have a working system without pulling the sandpoint. There is a good chance that when you pull it, only the top 15 feet will come out.

  13. #28
    DIY Junior Member TM's Avatar
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    Don't the leathers have to be in the waterline to function? If not, I would certainly be up for givung it a try....
    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    8 feet of water is not much to work with. So by my calcs there is 15 feet of good casing and 15 feet of air to the water. What you could do is to put 23 feet of drop pipe on the footvalve and still have a working system without pulling the sandpoint. There is a good chance that when you pull it, only the top 15 feet will come out.

  14. #29
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    The water on the inside is what seals the leathers. Certainly worth a try.

  15. #30
    DIY Junior Member TM's Avatar
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    I will give it a try tomorrow morning and see what happens!
    Quote Originally Posted by valveman View Post
    The water on the inside is what seals the leathers. Certainly worth a try.

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