You seem to have a reading comprehension issue. The flow is stopped after the brine has been drawn out of the brine well. As dittohead said, you can here the change in sound when it happens.
And yet it's you that doesn't understand that my shutting off the power while in the brine draw cycle after a specific length of time, leaves some fresh IO solution and brine in the "brine well" as you call the salt tank, where dittohead Alan has you sucking it all out of the "brine well" at once.
Iron is oxidized by the air entrainment of the micronizer before it enters the precipitation tank
Actually the oxidation starts in the pipe going to your "precipitation tank" after the air injector but the oxidation isn't complete yet.
It, the oxidation, is supposed to complete IN the RETENTION TANK and precipitate out of the water onto the bottom of the RETENTION TANK.
where the iron globs together into rust particles large enough to be trapped by the filter. The water leaving the precipitation tank has visible rust.
And that loads up the Birm and requires a longer backwash and if not the Birm can't oxidize any ferrous iron, and that oxidizing the ferrous iron that gets through the air injection is why you use Birm instead of a simple sediment removal mineral in the filter.
I have an outside hose bib that is Tee'd into the unfiltered line as well as additional hose bibs Tee'd in after the iron filter. The filtered water is clear and used to water the foundation beds so as not to rust stain my white siding. The unfiltered water is used to water the lawn and the water from it looks disgusting. The iron filter may not remove 100% of the iron but it certainly does remove most of it.
LOL so you're using your filtered water for irrigation, probably exceeding the SFR gpm of the Birm filter after not allowing enough contact time for the air to oxidize all the iron.
The
red part, that's like saying, it's a great car, it starts most of the time, or, it's only a small tumor.
I know something has to be done to stop the water hammer and flow reversal from shaking up the filter bed pack. I plan to put a checkvalve and a small expansion tank on the iron filter output
Water hammer is caused by too high water pressure, and Autotrol flapper valves slamming shut. Too high water pressure increases your peak demand flow rate through the water treatment system, especially the Birm filter and reduces contact time of the air injection part.
I suspect you have turned up your pressure due to the irrigation needs.
I see there are four of us now, the CalifornianPCdude, cartoonyKid, 1stTimeSoftenerguy and me, all asking you why your softener is seeing any iron.
Maybe you could explain that to us and see if anyone but me mentions insufficient contact time for the air to work completely based on the size and maybe the type of your "precipitation tank" that over the last year plus you've consistently insisted to me is just fine and not the problem.
Now, since IIRC, this is the first time in over a year plus that I've heard of the water hammer problem and you treating irrigation water with your air injection and Birm filter, I'll mention the very high probability of the Birm filter most likely being WAY too small.
And especially if you are using water in the house while watering the plants etc.. Your "precipitation tank" will be WAY TOO SMALL too. all while you've been blamming my "trick" for not working for your softener.... what a guy.