Reply With QuoteWhat you want controlled goes to line and load. Switch that activates the relay goes to the coil.
|
|
|
Spdt relay
I purchased an Omron Industrial G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB-AC100/120 relay and wonder if someone can tell me the way it is supposed to be wired? I can post a picture of the diagram on the relay if needed. I will go into the purpose of the relay later if needed after I get info on the wiring diagram. Thanks a million in advance...JDanW
What you want controlled goes to line and load. Switch that activates the relay goes to the coil.
DPST / NO Relay
I believe that is a DPST.Originally Posted by jdanw
The connections should be simple an indicated on the side of the relay.
Don't pay someone to do a job fast, when you can do a half-fast job yourself.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...eGOFLG2w%3d%3d
2 Form A contacts ( DP ST / NO ) coil voltage 100~120 VAC
As you can see on this data sheet, there is a wiring diagram on the side. What is your question?\\
http://www.omron247.com/doc/pdfcatal...J055-E3-04.pdf
The relay switches the adjacent terminals on the rear, (1-2 and 3-4), and the front terminals are the coil.
Last edited by hj; 06-05-2012 at 07:22 AM.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
I think if a person does not know what the printing on the side has, then they should not be playing with it.
I am waiting the see the application that it will be used in.
A SPDT is not the same as a DPST for starters.
Be careful playing with electricity.
Don't pay someone to do a job fast, when you can do a half-fast job yourself.
OK, it would be nice if judgement was withheld until you actually know if I am the guy who "is an idiot because he can't figure it out". If I knew what the symbols meant, I wouldn't have to ask. Kind of like saying if you don't know which the gas and brake pedals are, you shouldn't be driving. We ask, train, go to class, etc. to LEARN. Stepping down from small soap box...I actually designed this whole circuit with an electrician, but I think when I went to get the relay at Grainger, they sold me the wrong one (they sold me one with just 2 connectors, 4 & 6)
What the drawing says to me: I energize the coil, via 1 & 2, it in turn activates the switches that close 2 to 4 and 6 to 8. I tried this as well as another set-up because things weren't working (probably all started with the wrong relay "teaching" me the wrong way to hook it up) and neither worked. More specifically, what I think the symbols mean, because I am not a trained electrician or electrical engineering student, is I put my HOT to 0, neutral to 1. This is what my switch activates. Then, I wire my equipment to terminals 2 & 6 as HOTs, and the terminals 4 & 8 acts as the neutrals to the equipment. Is this right (BTW HJ, I assume this is what you meant, but had the load terminals labeled as 1-4)
DPST: got my terminology wrong, again, learning here. As you can see from my drawing and my acquaintance discussed was I need a relay to power two pieces of equipment when the timer is one...thanks again, don't flame me for the mini rant please...just very frustrating to be dogged from the get go...
First off, you have "double pole single throw" dpst switch, NOT a "spdt". Second, the relay connect 2 & 4 together adn 6 & 8, so when you connect the transformer to 2 & 4, you "short it out" when the relay operates. 6 & 8 do NOTHING, because they have NO active feeds to them. But in actuality, from what I can decipher from your drawing is that there is NO HOT OR NEUTRAL wires anywhere on the relay, except at the coil. ALL terminals are isolated, therefore NONE of them are connected to any other terminal. The right hand relay will also do NOTHING, unless its "hot feed" from the timer is connected to the 0 terminal. Time to attend another wiring diagram and electrical circuit class.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
OK, got all that, thanks HJ...Here is the way I interpreted it to begin with, but again, when it didn't work, I doubted myself. Turns out I was right all along. So, I supply power to 0,2 & 6, take neutral off of 1 to complete coil circuit. Power comes out of 4 & 8 when the relay is energized goes to my loads and the neutral from the load goes back to the main supply. Is that right? Or am I still off some...
That looks more better.
Don't pay someone to do a job fast, when you can do a half-fast job yourself.
You could have saved some wire by jumpering between # 2 and #6 on both relays, then running the neutrals from #1 to the transformers. What is the "black blob" that is activated by either/both relays?
Can you also tell if my wife is pregnant and where I left my car keys?
Last edited by hj; 06-06-2012 at 07:18 AM.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
That Round Blob looks like a Fan.
Don't pay someone to do a job fast, when you can do a half-fast job yourself.
NExt question, hope someone is still out there...
HJ, thanks and it does test right.
DonL, thanks for coming back after my little rant. I do appreciate the help. I'm ignorant, not stupid...And yes, that blob is a fan. Circuit is designed to open a damper and turn on fan when switch is pushed, from both bathrooms as well, without sending 240 volts to the fan. the electrician helped me design it so the same power is going to the fan when both circuits are open.
1) Could I have fried my timer switched doing ti the first diagram? I can't get them to function properly. When I use them in the circuit, they close immediately. (If someone would like to help me troubleshoot these switches, I'd take that help also)...anyway...
2) Can anyone tell me if it's possible to add another timer switch to trip the relay from one bathroom? I have the switch in the toilet room, but would like to put one out in the bathroom proper if possible, so i don't have to go in the toilet room every time I want to turn it on. Is it as simple as what I put in the drawing?
(I have changed the drawing to more accurately reflect the way it will be done. I started to use red for the SWITCHED power, just to make it easier to follow). Thanks for any and all help!!
It looks good for the most part, as far as working.
I would be a little concerned about the bare power wires that have damaged and missing insulation.
As long as it does not need to be inspected, It may work. But may not pass for various reasons.
Don't pay someone to do a job fast, when you can do a half-fast job yourself.
Thanks DonL. I might do some rejiggering to get insulation on all wires, but this is where I am right now. Do you have a comment on my double switch question in the earlier (but recent) post #13? I appreciate your time to answer. Thanks.
Last edited by jdanw; 08-17-2012 at 11:48 AM. Reason: added post#
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks