Booster Pump Help

**PHONEMAN** · 06-04-2012, 07:46 PM

I have a 1 1/2 hp stss-rite jet pump, 85 foot well, 85 gallon regular pressure tank (non bladder)Pro Source

Chlorine injection w/ 85 gal holding tank, then large carbon filter , then water softener, then another special large
filter to remove Tanin and the smell that goes with it, everything works great, except pressure. Its set at 30/60

It does start pump at 30 and shuts down at 60, so that seems to work.

Question, is there a way to install a booster pump on the 3/4 line running into the house to keep the pressure
at or close to 60psi. I see pressure pumps but not sure how they work.

My chlorineator pump works off a flow control switch, that starts the chlorine pump when it detects water flowing
out to house, could I use a 110v booster pump and just put it in the line to the house, and just plug it into
the flow control switch. As you can see Im kinda lost here
Thanks, Charles

**valveman** · 06-05-2012, 07:24 AM

It is going down to 30 that is your problem. I can't find that pump model number. But I think it will do more pressure than that. I would first just try adjusting the pressure switch. If you can get it to run at 50/70, or even 45/65, the pressure will be much better. Either way you only want 20 PSI between on and off, not 30.

**PHONEMAN** · 06-05-2012, 08:20 PM

Originally Posted by valveman

It is going down to 30 that is your problem. I can't find that pump model number. But I think it will do more pressure than that. I would first just try adjusting the pressure switch. If you can get it to run at 50/70, or even 45/65, the pressure will be much better. Either way you only want 20 PSI between on and off, not 30.

That makes alot of since, I will try that........ Seems like I did try it before, If Im rembering, it would not go beyond 60, it just kept running and didnt build anymore pressure. But not sure now , will try it again. also the 20 lbs pressure between off and on also makes since, the pump is a Sta-rite 1 1/2 hp jet, with one pipe going from the well to the pump, its 9 months old, everything is 9 months old, also seem to be having a problem with losing air, or not getting air into the pressure tank, it has a acv which Im still not sure if it adds air or takes air out, but Ive been draining the tank, then adding around 35lbs of air with a compressor, then refilling tank with water, seems to work for awhile. I had a well in Texas for 13 yrs and never had one problem with air, regular non bladder tank, but it had some other type of air valve on it, cant remember what kind it was, cause I never had to mess with the well, pump, or tank in 13 yrs, it just worked great. Thanks for the help.
Charles

**valveman** · 06-06-2012, 06:45 AM

If the pump won’t build higher than 60, then don’t raise the pressure. But you can decrease the bandwidth of the pressure switch. Just loosen all the way on the small adjustment screw in the pressure switch. That should get you down to about 17 PSI between on and off. So if it goes off at 60, it should come on at 43. This will be much better than going down to 30 before the pump starts. It will make the pump cycle more often, which may help with the air charge, since those kind only add air when the pump starts.

**PHONEMAN** · 06-07-2012, 07:45 PM

Thanks Valveman,
So where does the air for the tank come from?. I wish there was a way to tell how much of a full tank is water
or air, tried taping on it to see if there was a differerence in sound but cant seem to tell any difference. maybe its just me.

Probably need to get a diafram tank, tho this one is only 9 months old. Ive got a problem somewhere.

What Ive been doing ids draining tank, then using my air compressor adding 35lbs of air, then turning back on
the pump, seems to work for about 2/3 weeks then do it again, that cant be right

**valveman** · 06-08-2012, 07:24 AM

You will know you have too much air in the tank when the AVC is spewing or it blows a glass out of your hand at the sink.

There are always problems with air injector systems and AVC's. That is why most people have switched to bladder tanks. The only reason I would stay with the old style galve tank, is if there is iron, H2S, or something else smelly in the water.

**LLigetfa** · 06-08-2012, 08:51 AM

When airing up the tank, it's not necessary to drain it completely. Periodically when the pressure is almost at the kick-in setting, add air until the pressure goes just over the kick-out setting. You should be able to tell where the water level is by just warming the side of the tank with the flame of a propane torch. The tank will sweat more below the water line. Just don't burn the house down.

**PHONEMAN** · 06-08-2012, 08:29 PM

Originally Posted by LLigetfa

When airing up the tank, it's not necessary to drain it completely. Periodically when the pressure is almost at the kick-in setting, add air until the pressure goes just over the kick-out setting. You should be able to tell where the water level is by just warming the side of the tank with the flame of a propane torch. The tank will sweat more below the water line. Just don't burn the house down.

Great so I dont have to drain the tank, We have a problem with tannin in the water which makes it smell, I have a filter (tank with computer
head which really cleans out the smell totally, have some type of media, havent a clue what but it works great. Basically my Pump house
looks like a water plant inside, but its all interesting, still trying to understand how it all works tho. Going to readjust pressure from 30/60 to 45/60
tomorrow, add some air, and tinker around some. Thanks
Charles

**LLigetfa** · 06-09-2012, 05:17 AM

If you let the tank get completely waterlogged, then you would need to drain it but if you do it often enough, then you don't.

If your tank has a AVC that will vent excess air, there is no risk of putting in too much air. If there is too much air, the air will make its way through the plumbing and can cause issues. Air in the water stream can knock a glass out of your hand. During a filter backwash, if the filter has no top basket, filter media can get driven up into the vales of the head or be lost to the drain. Been there, done that.