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Thread: Washer Dryer Hook Up Moving to Upstairs

  1. #1
    DIY Member skoby's Avatar
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    Default Washer Dryer Hook Up Moving to Upstairs

    First I want to thank everyone here for giving their time to help others. My plumbing skills are limited but I have put in a water heater, a few sinks, toilets, and garbage disposal.

    This seems fairly simple but I want to make sure I'm ok with this set up. I want to move my washer/dryer hookup to upstairs. I'm probably within 1 or 2 wall studs from the existing downstairs drain.

    Here are the questions

    1) I was going to "T" off of the existing sink plumbing, is that ok?

    2) With the new P Trap, should go through the wall stud(s) upstairs and then straight down using 1/4 bend fittings to where the original drain was and hook into that?

    3) Can I run the new pipe directly into the old P trap? The reason I ask is that it seems it may be easier to access but if I can't then I won't.

    4) Is there anything else at this point I should be thinking about?

    I haven't opened the wall downstairs yet but so far am I on the right track? Thanks for any help.


  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You can tap off the existing supply for the WM, but your drain will not work. The trap must be on the same floor, and there are requirements about the height as well as the stand pipe going into it. Then, it must be vented. You can never run a trapped fixture into a second trap and have things work well. The drain line must be at least 2".
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
    DIY Member skoby's Avatar
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    I didn't think the trap into another trap would be a good idea.

    Thanks
    Last edited by skoby; 06-03-2012 at 10:39 PM.

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    I am assuming you do not intend to actually pipe the drain into the existing trap. But your big problem is the vent. That new trap on the second floor must be vented. If you open the walls, there will be a vent off the sink, and you could probably tie into that.

    Check with your codes to see if a washer/dryer is allowed in the bathroom, especially if that bathroom is linked to a bedroom.

  5. #5
    DIY Member skoby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo View Post
    I am assuming you do not intend to actually pipe the drain into the existing trap. But your big problem is the vent. That new trap on the second floor must be vented. If you open the walls, there will be a vent off the sink, and you could probably tie into that.

    Check with your codes to see if a washer/dryer is allowed in the bathroom, especially if that bathroom is linked to a bedroom.
    The W/D would be outside of the bathroom on the landing at the top of the stairs.

    I am able to use an AAV so I think that would solve the venting issue.

    I'm about 90% certain the existing drain runs through a concrete wall. I'd prefer not to break through the concrete.

    The first pic is the upstairs landing where I'd like to put the new hookup. I showed where I could run the pipe outside of the inner wall and through the floor to the existing drain (minus the old P Trap).

    The second pic is the downstairs existing P trap. I would eliminate the P trap and wye into it.

    Does this look ok?




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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Removing the p-trap downstairs and using a 90 to bring it upstairs works.
    The AAV upstairs could vent the new relocated washer p-trap.

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    DIY Member jadziedzic's Avatar
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    Washing machines can overflow and supply hoses can leak, so you should consider how you might incorporate a drain pan or floor drain into your plans to accommodate that possibility. Check with your local authority having jurisdiction (I'm assuming you're going to pull a permit) to see if those are required.

    (Putting a washer and dryer on a second-floor landing seems, well, sort of "odd" - not that you asked.)

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    DIY Member skoby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadziedzic View Post
    Washing machines can overflow and supply hoses can leak, so you should consider how you might incorporate a drain pan or floor drain into your plans to accommodate that possibility.
    Thanks for the heads up.

  9. #9
    DIY Member skoby's Avatar
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    I'm looking into another option. The initial drain I was going into was only 1 1/2 inch.

    I pulled the bathroom wall down a bit to see what I was working with. The sinks appear to be wet vented and I believe I cannot run my waste water there (per Massachusetts code).

    I am thinking of running my waste to the drain where my bath tub is.

    I was going to replace the bathtub this summer so cutting into it isn't an issue.

    My drain would have to come outside the wall to get around the wet vent. It may not be aesthetically appealing but at this time seems to be the only option (if it's even is an option).

    The total run of the drain would be appr 8 ft.







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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    A washer can't wet vent over a tub. It siphons the trap.

    You will want to drop the drain through the floor, and tie in below the toilet. Then you can vent as you normally do.

  11. #11
    DIY Member skoby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    A washer can't wet vent over a tub. It siphons the trap.

    You will want to drop the drain through the floor, and tie in below the toilet. Then you can vent as you normally do.
    When you say tie in below the toilet, do you mean tie in under where the toilet drain connects to the stack? If so, I may have to bust through the concrete which I was trying to avoid but if I have to then I will.

  12. #12
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Is that bathroom on a concrete slab? I'm trying to wrap my mind around what you have there.

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    DIY Member skoby's Avatar
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    The bathroom is on the second floor above the kitchen on floor joists.

    The downstairs is slab with concrete block walls which end just below the second floor. I have access to the drain pipes on the second floor but they go behind the concrete on the lower floor.

    Here's a picture of the kitchen just below the bathroom.

    Do I need to tie into the tub drain or can I tie in under the toilet like you mentioned? I may have to pull up the bathroom floor and sub floor and go through the joists but I'd rather do that then go through the concrete wall on the first level wall. What do you think?



    Last edited by skoby; 06-05-2012 at 01:05 PM.

  14. #14
    DIY Member skoby's Avatar
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    I still have the option of an AAV according to a local plumber.
    Last edited by skoby; 06-05-2012 at 02:00 PM.

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    DIY Member skoby's Avatar
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    The 3" pipe is a wet vent so I can't tie in there. To the left of the vent (a few feet) there appears to be another stack as I can see it on the roof and remember seeing it downstairs through a broken cinderblock. This is also appr where the tub is sitting.

    Would this stack be a strictly soil stack meaning there shouldn't be other pipes using it as a vent.

    I ask because if this is true then I could use this stack. It's hard to tell if anything is using it as a vent because the pipes are behind cinder blocks.

    If soil stacks are not used for venting then this would answer my question as to whether or not I could tie in there.
    Last edited by skoby; 06-06-2012 at 09:54 AM.

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