(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 15 of 40

Thread: Autotrol 460i problem

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member rudyjr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    central ohio
    Posts
    22

    Default Autotrol 460i problem

    I have an approximately eight year old 64000 grain softener that has started acting up. We are on a private well and I periodically clean the injector and screen as a preventative measure. Starting last week my wife complained that the water was "kind of hard". I suspected that as in the past the injector and or screen was probably partiallly obstructed. I cleaned both parts and manually regenerated the unit. The water was still only partially soft. I checked both parts again and added some iron out to the brine tank. I regenerated the unit again and observed its operation. It did draw the water from the brine tank and refill but the water remained unchanged, what I would consider as only semi soft. ( i have been unable to find test strips, so sorry for this description) This unit was initially installed on our old well which failed after about five years ago. We had a new deeper well drilled and the unit performed quite well. I have been told that the problem could be fouled resin, or hard water leakage past the valve discs. Is there any way to troubel shoot this problem or should I just change both out and hope for the best? Thanks, Jim
    Last edited by rudyjr; 06-03-2012 at 10:30 AM.

  2. #2
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,709
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    http://www.amazon.com/Hach-5B-Hardne...m/B0051V5580/2
    Before we start, it is almost impossible to properly help you without accurate information. Buy this test kit, it is the industry standard. It will accurately tell you how hard the water is. Do you have iron or manganese in the water? If so, you need to get an accurate test for that as well.

    Your resin may be bad and fouled with iron or other contaminants, resin does have a limited life expectancy and the exchange sites can become permanently fouled so capacity will be lower than expected. Cleaning can help, but that has a very limited affectivness.

    Hard water leakage past the discs is common, but usually in chlrinated water supplies after 8+ years, on a well, the discs usually last significatntly longer, but they can definetly wear out.

    Hope this helps

  3. #3
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    2,946

    Default

    So I think what he is saying is that he had a new well drilled and the old softener is connected to it. There is a pretty good chance that the water conditions of the drilled well are substantially different than the old dug well. In any case a water test is required at this point and I'm a bit concerned that cleaning the resin with iron out and manual regen's didn't seem to work which is a red flag. either the resin is really badly fouled or the new water conditions are past the current systems settings parameters or sizing. Anyhooooooooo toddle on down to Lowes and get you some test strips and test for iron too.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member rudyjr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    central ohio
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer View Post
    So I think what he is saying is that he had a new well drilled and the old softener is connected to it. There is a pretty good chance that the water conditions of the drilled well are substantially different than the old dug well. In any case a water test is required at this point and I'm a bit concerned that cleaning the resin with iron out and manual regen's didn't seem to work which is a red flag. either the resin is really badly fouled or the new water conditions are past the current systems settings parameters or sizing. Anyhooooooooo toddle on down to Lowes and get you some test strips and test for iron too.
    My Lowes has nothing in the way of test strips and neither does Home Depot. My old well was very high iron content and I think that it was what was hard on my softener . The new well is by far better water although I do not remember what the exact number is. I think I am going to have a couple of water conditioning companies take a look and give me a free water analysis to get a starting point.

  5. #5
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,796

    Default

    Before you do that, mix a 1/2 cup of Iron Out or Super IO to 2-3 gallons of water and pour that into the salt tank brine well if you have one, or down along the side of the salt if not. Wait two hours and do another manual regeneration.

    Don't over fill the salt tank that salt water overflows on the floor.

    When the backwash starts and gets a full flow to drain (it takes maybe a minute), unplug the control valve and let it run for 15-20 minutes and then plug it back in. When that is finished it will go into slow rinse/brine draw (sucks salt brine out of the salt tank), time 10-12 minutes and unplug the control valve for 20 minutes and then plug it in and let the regeneration finish on its own. Then see how the water feels.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member rudyjr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    central ohio
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    Before you do that, mix a 1/2 cup of Iron Out or Super IO to 2-3 gallons of water and pour that into the salt tank brine well if you have one, or down along the side of the salt if not. Wait two hours and do another manual regeneration.

    Don't over fill the salt tank that salt water overflows on the floor.

    When the backwash starts and gets a full flow to drain (it takes maybe a minute), unplug the control valve and let it run for 15-20 minutes and then plug it back in. When that is finished it will go into slow rinse/brine draw (sucks salt brine out of the salt tank), time 10-12 minutes and unplug the control valve for 20 minutes and then plug it in and let the regeneration finish on its own. Then see how the water feels.
    Thanks Gary that is a heck of an idea as it should give the IO time to work. I will give this a try when I get some time later this week. Thanks, Jim

Similar Threads

  1. 255 valve / 460i control
    By Tom Bond in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-26-2011, 06:59 AM
  2. Iron still in water after troubleshooting GE/autotrol 255
    By rustywater in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-13-2010, 06:10 PM
  3. Autotrol 255valve/460I valve
    By moisheh in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-01-2010, 06:10 PM
  4. GE 460i advice
    By mnemonic76 in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-14-2010, 08:49 AM
  5. Autotrol 255 Problem
    By jslear in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 12-27-2006, 07:28 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •