I have an upcoming project that will use QuickDrain linear drains, the ones that have an integrated 6"-wide flange of Noble TS.

The shower has both a window and a niche. I had planned on using Hydroban on the shower walls and floor, so I wouldn't have to deal with corner buildup from Kerdi, Noble TS, or other sheet membranes.

The QuickDrain install video shows the TS drain flange stapled to blocking in the stud cavity, then the wall CBU installed in front. Their cutaway drawings don't show any waterproofing on the walls, just studs -> CBU -> thinset -> tile.

So my questions...

1. Instead of tacking the TS flange to stud blocking, I'd like to install the CBU first (holding it about 1/8" off the subfloor), then thinset the TS flange to the front, then Hydroban the walls, overlapping it by a couple inches onto the TS. Does this approach seem correct?

2. I'd like to use the Quick Slope pre-formed panel for the shower floor (http://www.quickdrainusa.com/shower-pans.php), skim with thinset, and then Hydroban over that. Any thoughts on whether it's a bad idea using a liquid membrane instead of a sheet membrane in this case, especially with the Quick Slope being a honeycomb pattern? I'm thinking point loads could be a problem, but no concrete reason for thinking a liquid would be worse than a sheet. I could always do a mudbed with a feather finish to the drain, but then Laticrete calls for a 3-day cure time before applying Hydroban.

3. Before I even do any floor prep, I'd like to install the wall CBU, Hydroban everything except the bottom 6 inches or so, then tile the walls (except the bottom row or two). This way, I'm avoiding working on a prepped shower pan. After the walls are done, then I'd do the pan work and tie it into the walls. Any problems with having "cold joints" so to speak in the Hydroban application?