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Thread: Las Vegas Water Softener Selection

  1. #16
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    If you have that controller, it is one of Culligans best. It is a proprietary 7000 valve by Pentair, and Culligan has some special programming to make it slightly more efficient. That system is definetly worth repairing. What are the sysmptoms of what it is doing?

  2. #17
    DIY Member John Vegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    If you have that controller, it is one of Culligans best. It is a proprietary 7000 valve by Pentair, and Culligan has some special programming to make it slightly more efficient. That system is definetly worth repairing. What are the sysmptoms of what it is doing?
    It is dripping through the drain line. I have literally been shutting off the water at the shutoff when I go to work and go to bed for like 2 months and am getting tired of doing it. I should just call Culligan to repair, but I really don't like the local dealer.

    JS

  3. #18
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I have a very good freind in Vegas who can help you out, let me know if you want his information.

  4. #19
    DIY Member John Vegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    I have a very good freind in Vegas who can help you out, let me know if you want his information.
    Please check your email.

    Thanks, JS

  5. #20
    DIY Member John Vegas's Avatar
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    Default Culligan Regeneration

    Ok, so I am having loads of luck with this Culligan.

    For some reason, the GFI keeps tripping in my garage. When it trips, it turns off the Culligan. I am going to replace the GFI tonight (this house seems to have electrical gremlins), but is there a way to prevent the Culligan from regenerating? It has regenerated the past two days in a row because I don't know how to make it stop (or even if I can!!!).

    Thanks, JS

  6. #21
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    I'll be crucified for this but I hate plugging water filtration equipment into GFCI breakers or outlets. The damn things trip and screw up the timer and it turns into a service problem which turns into having to get an electrician in which turns into a pissed off customer. Still, code is code is code is code.................................
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  7. #22
    DIY Member John Vegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer View Post
    I'll be crucified for this but I hate plugging water filtration equipment into GFCI breakers or outlets. The damn things trip and screw up the timer and it turns into a service problem which turns into having to get an electrician in which turns into a pissed off customer. Still, code is code is code is code.................................
    Oh yeah, If I can fix this, i am removing the GFI totally. To hell with the code, I can't have this damned softener regenerating every night.

    I probably need to buy some load testing device or something to test some outlets. I think this house was wired incorrectly because this is not the only GFCI issue I have had. That, or DR Horton used el cheapo GFCI outlets and they are starting to malfunction, especially since the garage here gets to about 125 degrees in the summer!

  8. #23
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I would update the GFCI outlets to new ones. Name:  7018k15p1l.png
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    Test every plug in the house with this to make sure they are wired correctly.

    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...ight=prototype
    If you look at this thread, the picture shows every outlet is outdoor protected as well as being GFCI, never a problem here. Anytime I have an outlet near water (execpt in the kitchen on the counter, I put one of these covers on.


    sorry about posting the cheat sheet, I hit the wrong file.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by ditttohead; 05-30-2012 at 04:37 PM.

  9. #24
    DIY Member John Vegas's Avatar
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    I put a new GFCI outlet in, but I didn't plug the softener back in since I know that I'll have softwater for several days. I wanted to see if something else might cause the GFCI to trip (I only have an irrigation time on the circuit and I ran that through its motions turning on all the valves and no tripping).

    I assume I am not doing any damage to the softener if I leave it turned off and NOT in bypass mode?

    JS

  10. #25
    DIY Member John Vegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Vegas View Post
    I put a new GFCI outlet in, but I didn't plug the softener back in since I know that I'll have softwater for several days. I wanted to see if something else might cause the GFCI to trip (I only have an irrigation time on the circuit and I ran that through its motions turning on all the valves and no tripping).

    I assume I am not doing any damage to the softener if I leave it turned off and NOT in bypass mode?

    JS
    I hope I have not done any damage as I just turned it back on today to regenerate.

    JS

  11. #26
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    It should be fine. Re-set the programming if needed
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  12. #27
    DIY Member John Vegas's Avatar
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    I thought I had a Platinum Plus, which is clearly the Fleck 7000SXT valve. The valve diagrams are exactly the same (as posted on the Fleck and Culligan websites). I now realize that I have a Platinum series valve. Culligan has apparently not posted a valve diagram for this model, which is extremely frustrating!

    I have reviewed the cut sheets for nearly every valve made (Fleck, Autotrol and Clack) and none of them seem to match the look of this Culligan valve.

    Does anyone have any idea who manufacturers this valve? I guess it is possible the Culligan made a special valve, but at least the internal parts are usually consistent (especially since the Platinum Plus is clearly the 7000SXT.

    Thanks, JS

  13. #28
    DIY Member John Vegas's Avatar
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    So I have been living with this dripping to drain water softener for months now, LOL, but it is getting worse. Can anyone identify this valve or any suggestions on how to get to the seal pack? I poked and prodded the thing by removing some screws and the plate on the left (which seems to give access to the OTHER end of the seal pack assembly. It seems like you need to take off the mechanical contraption on the right to access the correct end of the seal pack, but not sure. Its JUST about time for either a repair man or a new system...

    Thanks, JSName:  Culligan 1.jpg
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  14. #29
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Sadly, I vote for a new system. That is definetly a proprietary unit, not the 7000 variant. Your Culligan rep should be able to repair it easily and at a reasonable price. If not, then it is time for a change. (timely, just a couple weeks away, time for a change)

  15. #30
    DIY Member John Vegas's Avatar
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    Default Connecting new system...

    So I am thinking about pulling the trigger on a new 48K Fleck 7000SXT. My only question for now is how would y'all suggest I connect the system? As you can see from the previous pictures, I have those odd flared fitting that connect the existing POS Culligan. I can get the Fleck in just about any size from 3/4 to 1/5" plastic fittings.

    I don't have the tools to solder, and I am hoping to avoid calling in a plumber (although I can pull a favor if I need to). I was thinking it might be best to just cut out the flared fittings (I do have a copper pipe cutter), put on on a push connect fitting to transition from the copper pipe to threaded. I was figuring using a push fitting to go from the 1-inch pipe to 1-inch threads, order the softener with 1-inch threads, and then use flex connectors to basically connect the pipes (inlet and outlet) to the softeners.

    Is it standard to connect softeners with flex connectors rather than hard plumbing like the Culligan (see pics earlier in this thread).

    Thanks all, JS


    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Sadly, I vote for a new system. That is definetly a proprietary unit, not the 7000 variant. Your Culligan rep should be able to repair it easily and at a reasonable price. If not, then it is time for a change. (timely, just a couple weeks away, time for a change)

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