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Thread: Help identify resin and water softners

  1. #16
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    Onle one tank has resin. It is the one that has the meter an the brine line hooked to the brine tank. The other tank could have BIRM, PYROLOX or FILOX media in it.

  2. #17
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Try chlorinating the well and see if the smell goes away. If it does and comes back later then don't chlorinate again because continual chlorinating can cause corrosion of the well case and the pump.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member scooby's Avatar
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    The birm , pyrolox and filox are media that would take out the sulfur smell and are backwashing media? I want to makes sure my unit can properly backwash the media also, should i be concerened about the weight and how much i put in tank?

  4. #19
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Birm should not be used for Hydrogen sulfide, so the common medias after that are pyrolox/Filox types of medias. I noticed the sticker on your unit shows a backwash rate of 7 GPM for the iron/hydrogen sulfide system. This is not adequate for pyrolox in many applications. What is the temperature of your water? Colder water requires less volume to expand a bed so a lower GPM may work. There are several other medias manufactured under different brand names that use less water and require less frequent backwashing, but Pyrolox or similar medias are the most common. A 10" tank should be backwashed at no less than 8 gpm, and preferably at 10-13 GPM.

  5. #20
    DIY Junior Member scooby's Avatar
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    The water temp is cold but not exactly sure on temp.what range should i be in to expand a bed at lower gpm, Im not sure if this is the exact system i have , as far as gpm rate goes, dont know if they cobbled something together to make it work or what, can i test for gpm of tank? could i upgrade the head for more gpm? and is it possible for the media and tank itself to be contaminated with iron bacteria, when i pulled water from spigot before softners and after sediment filter there was no smell of sulfur, then this morning brushing my teeth i could smell the sulfur it wasn t overwhelming but it was there.

  6. #21
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    See the chart below for Pyrolox. As you can see, a 15% expansion of the media requires
    18 GPM per Sq. Ft of bed area at 40 degrees, or
    22 GPM per Sq. Ft. of bed area at 60 degrees, or
    26 GPM per Sq. Ft. of bed area at 80 degrees

    A 10" diameter tank has a sq. Ft area of .55

    at 40 degrees, the calculation would be as follows. .55 x 18 = 10 GPM backwash rate.
    at 60 degrees, the calculation would be as follows. .55 x 22 = 12 GPM backwash rate.
    at 80 degrees, the calculation would be as follows. .55 x 26 = 14-15 GPM backwash rate.

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  7. #22
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooby View Post
    The water temp is cold but not exactly sure on temp.what range should i be in to expand a bed at lower gpm, Im not sure if this is the exact system i have , as far as gpm rate goes, dont know if they cobbled something together to make it work or what, can i test for gpm of tank? could i upgrade the head for more gpm? and is it possible for the media and tank itself to be contaminated with iron bacteria, when i pulled water from spigot before softners and after sediment filter there was no smell of sulfur, then this morning brushing my teeth i could smell the sulfur it wasn t overwhelming but it was there.
    I sounds as if the filter and softener are working fine except for a small amount of odor today or yesterday morning. So it's old, it is also high quality equipment and working well.

    Put the filter, that's the one without a salt tank connected to it, in the backwash position and when it has a good flow to drain (2-3 minutes), unplug the control valve for 20 minutes, and then plug it back in and let it finish on its own without using water from when you started it to when it is done.

    Then add a 1/4 cup of non scented household bleach to 2-3 gallons of water and pour it into the salt tank of the softener, poured down the brine well into the water in the bottom of the tank or along the inside wall of the salt tank (instead of down through the salt) if you don't have a brine well; a 3" diameter tube with a float in it. Wait for 2-3 hours and on your way to bed or everyone is going to be out for the day, then rotate the center black knob on the control valve to the right, clockwise until the motor starts.

    Don't use water for the next 3 hours (or when you get up in the morning) it will take the knob to get back to where it was before you rotated it.

    Then see how your water is, and if there is a problem, decide then what to do but if there is no problem, maybe you could find some other project to do until this equipment quits doing its job.


    BTW, your backwash must be ok gpm wise or the equipment wouldn't be working (15 yrs) to remove the iron in your water or provide soft water.

    You should not chlorinate/shock the well, that is a bad idea and there is no evidence that you need to do that.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  8. #23
    DIY Junior Member scooby's Avatar
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    Thanks for feedback Gary, I will give this a try. Are you thinking the softner or filter got contaminated and this will clean them out? The water coming into the house seems fine , and i would hate to shock the well and do more damage then good. I was thinking about taking the head off the filter tank and look inside and see if it looked contaminated ,but i ll do what you suggested first before getting into that.

  9. #24
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooby View Post
    Thanks for feedback Gary, I will give this a try. Are you thinking the softner or filter got contaminated and this will clean them out? The water coming into the house seems fine , and i would hate to shock the well and do more damage then good. I was thinking about taking the head off the filter tank and look inside and see if it looked contaminated ,but i ll do what you suggested first before getting into that.
    Yeah the softener could have some bacteria in it from the salt tank etc. and it doesn't hurt to sanitize it with some bleach. The backwash of the filter should be done first. Then by pass the softener and run water to see if the odor is still there.

    If it is or isn't, do the softener thing either way and see if the odor is still there. The extra water in the salt tank will regenerate the resin better than the present salt dose and should help get the soft water hardness reduced. just don't over flow salt water on the floor.

    I you have Birm in the filter, it will not remove H2S and any H2S will ruin the Birm. If you have Pyrolox etc. it will remove H2S, iron and any manganese. Birm is very light weight, the others are very heavy minerals. Most if not all are black. The long backwash I said to do is to get rid of all the dirt/rust etc. in the filter that it can. That would help the mineral do its job better.

    Make sure the time of day is set correctly on the filter and have it start its backwash an hour ahead of the softener so they aren't both using water at the same time. You'll have to lie to the softener clock to get it an hour later. Or lie to the filter and set the softener correctly so it is finished regenerating before you get up in the morning. It usually doesn't take much more than 90 minutes to do a regeneration. The filter should be about 30-40 minutes but you want the well to recover some before the softener starts using water.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  10. #25
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Actually, the 3000 timer (your filter timer) has an adjustable regeneration time. The newer 3200 also have adjustable regeneration times, but i doubt your 3200 timer is the newer style. the silver plate can be moved to adjust the regeneration time.

    Hope this helps.

  11. #26
    DIY Junior Member scooby's Avatar
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    Yesterday when i got home my asked why i turned the water when i left for work , i said i didnt, long story short the steel casing on the well collapsed on itself. The well guys couldnt get the pump out so they figure the steel part of the well seized on the pump. So i have to go see if i can put a new well in, but im positive the township will want me to hook up to city water. Thanks to Gary and Ditto for all the info , good to know that knowledgable people are out there and willing to share good adive . Thanks again!

  12. #27
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    I might get a second opinion on that steel casing collapsing part. Especially if you have 5" or larger ID casing. Most submersible pumps are 4". Problem is that there are many 4" wells in your part of the country.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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