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Thread: 2 questions about softeners

  1. #76
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outcast View Post
    can i get that cheat sheet ? thanx


    i did a test on the water yesterday. 1 drop turned it blue right off the bat , lol. wow
    i need to get a farrel so i can hook up the fridge water.
    Is it a 12x52 2 cu. ft. 7000SXT? Here is the programming cheat sheet for that setup.

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  2. #77
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer View Post
    QUOTE=Gary Slusser;345731]I was talking about the looks of installed SS flexible tubing but...

    I'm just saying that most good cooks aren't lookin' much like runway model types. For one thing, they all wear white, and all year 'round!
    Attachment 16481


    Apparently you are looking at the wrong cooks.[/QUOTE]

    LOL, my wife is a great cook, I agree, must be looking at the wrong cook.
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  3. #78
    DIY Senior Member F6Hawk's Avatar
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    Since she's not actually in the kitchen cooking, you'll just have to take my word for it that she is a awesome cook!

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  4. #79
    DIY Junior Member outcast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Is it a 12x52 2 cu. ft. 7000SXT? Here is the programming cheat sheet for that setup.

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    yes. thanx. that really helps a lot. but, i have about 37 hardness. if i change that number, do i change any others ?

    also, i saw where you said to check the flow meter with a magnet. the magnet does not make my "drop" flash. is it possible that i do not have it in operation, so that the drop would not indicate flow ?
    i did not make any adjustments, that i know of, other than the time.

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    DIY Senior Member F6Hawk's Avatar
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    The magnet check was just for a stuck turbine. If your water is flowing, but your drop is not blinking, then either: 1) You are in bypass (note the arrows on the hand wheels), or 2) Your turbine is stuck.

    Passing a magnet back and forth over the sensor SHOULD make it blink.

  6. #81
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Remove the meter cable sensor from the back of the valve and pass a magnet across that several times, the flow indicator should blink. If it does not blink, you may have a bad sensor cable or board.

  7. #82
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    A guys... those ladies, including an exwife of mine with a 36-24-36 body, a redheaded green eyed scratch 'til ya bleed screamer ex **** model (that's as in an art school classroom) and an ex runway fashion model and instructor in Amsterdam, was an exceptionally great cook but...

    To me, she and your ladies, I'm thinking they are not, nor have they ever been, in the culinary arts profession, as is required to be the kinda "cook" I was referring to.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  8. #83
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    I beg to differ, the picture I posted is one of the food network stars
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  9. #84
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Sawyer View Post
    I beg to differ, the picture I posted is one of the food network stars
    Yes, I know, and she's a very good actress and ya know, it's like plumbers, those that cant, teach... or do code stuff.

    BTW, I think her eyes are too close together, or was that another one?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  10. #85
    DIY Junior Member outcast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Remove the meter cable sensor from the back of the valve and pass a magnet across that several times, the flow indicator should blink. If it does not blink, you may have a bad sensor cable or board.
    i did that, it does nothing, and i used a good magnet. its not in bypass, the water is soft, no doubt.

  11. #86
    DIY Junior Member outcast's Avatar
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    ok, i just tried to program it.

    i pushed the up/down buttons. it displayed 15, push regen button. displayed 2:00, push regen button.
    it does not display H20. it just skips to time. i tried it many times, same thing.

  12. #87
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    Yes, I know, and she's a very good actress and ya know, it's like plumbers, those that cant, teach... or do code stuff.

    BTW, I think her eyes are too close together, or was that another one?
    It must be so very hard living in your fantasy world LOL

    Those that can't..........get forced to retire LOL
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  13. #88
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outcast View Post
    ok, i just tried to program it.

    i pushed the up/down buttons. it displayed 15, push regen button. displayed 2:00, push regen button.
    it does not display H20. it just skips to time. i tried it many times, same thing.
    To get into master programming where you can tweak every setting, set the time to 12:01 P.M., then wait a 15 seconds. Then push the up and down arrow buttons at the same time for about 8 seconds. You are now in master programming mode. If the magnet against the sensor does not work, then that would indicate a bad cable/sensor, or a bad board. Neither is common, but my money would be on the cable. I go through a few a year, but we are moving huge volumes so the numbers of cables that go bad is insignificant. The 5600SXT, 2510 SXT, etc all use the same cable sensor, just the lengths vary.

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    DIY Junior Member outcast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    To get into master programming where you can tweak every setting, set the time to 12:01 P.M., then wait a 15 seconds. Then push the up and down arrow buttons at the same time for about 8 seconds. You are now in master programming mode.

    If the magnet against the sensor does not work, then that would indicate a bad cable/sensor, or a bad board. Neither is common, but my money would be on the cable. I go through a few a year, but we are moving huge volumes so the numbers of cables that go bad is insignificant. The 5600SXT, 2510 SXT, etc all use the same cable sensor, just the lengths vary.
    ok, i did just that. it displays 2 perameters, DO & RT. then it reverts bad to in service mode. magnet trick does nothing.
    this thing is really pissing me off. it is now unplugged.

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outcast View Post
    ok, i did just that. it displays 2 perameters, DO & RT. then it reverts bad to in service mode. magnet trick does nothing.
    this thing is really pissing me off. it is now unplugged.
    It all good, I see one of the problems already. The system is not programmed for the meter, it is set as either a backwashing or timeclock model. That is why you have no meter signal, it is not looking for one. Be sure you are setting it to p.m., not a.m before trying to get into master programming mode.

    If all else fails, all of the SXT boards can be over ridden and reset to factory defaults by simply unplugging the power. Before you plug it back in, push and hold the regen button, plug the unit in, wait a few seconds and release. You will see HR on the sxt screen. This indicates it is doing a "hard reset".

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