2 questions about softeners

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John Vegas

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You may also want to order the 90 degree adapters for thew 7000 to make the installation a little easier.

What exactly is the purpose of a 90 degree adapter? I assume it allows the back of the softener to have a vertical connection rather than horizontal? I imagine that only make the installation easier if you use flexible connections?

If you have 1-inch pipe, and the Fleck is a 1 1/4" valve, it is worth using a 1" to 1/4" inch connection? Those flex pipes get a bit pricey. Is it a problem to do a 1" to 3/4" on (water pipe) the Fleck (3/4") or should I stick to the 1" (water pipe) to Fleck (1 1/4") ? Actually looks like I would need to do 1" (water pipe) to Fleck (1") because I don't think you can get 1" to 1 1/4" flex connections.

Thanks, JS
 
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F6Hawk

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I built my 90° adapter out of PVC, very cheap. Yes, it allows more flexibility on installation. And I see what you mean, I used 3/4" X 3/4" FIP since my house lines were 3/4". But the 1" X 1" FIP are 3 times the price of mine. Wow, never noticed that. You can always adapt the valve to 1" using threaded PVC.
 

ditttohead

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The 90 degree connectors allow you to relocate the bypass tighter for installations where space is critical, it can also make the installation much nicer.

Order the proper plastic pipe connector to match your plumbing, the 7000 has 3/4", 1" 1-1/4", and 1-1/2" plastic threaded connectors available, all are very inexpensive. Then simply flex the system in.
 

John Vegas

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I built my 90° adapter out of PVC, very cheap. Yes, it allows more flexibility on installation. And I see what you mean, I used 3/4" X 3/4" FIP since my house lines were 3/4". But the 1" X 1" FIP are 3 times the price of mine. Wow, never noticed that. You can always adapt the valve to 1" using threaded PVC.

Yes, three times the prices for each. By the time I am done with the Shark Bites/Gator Fittings and these hoses, it will be over $100 just for those parts. Grrr.
 

Gary Slusser

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What exactly is the purpose of a 90 degree adapter? I assume it allows the back of the softener to have a vertical connection rather than horizontal? I imagine that only make the installation easier if you use flexible connections?
It's to get the resin tank back closer to the wall instead of the back of the resin tank sitting out from the wall maybe 12"-16" away from it due to the size of the overkill 7000 control valve. And if you have your own well and are installing the softener on the outlet of the pressure tank, the 90* elbows cause the pluming to/from them to be a harder to do.

If your main water line is up at the ceiling, no problem with the vertical elbows except your alignment of the drop pipes center to center is critical, and for folks not into plumbing, it is difficult to get them just right ,and i not just right, you cause stress on plastic fittings which is not a good thing.

The 7000 is overkill for your needs and very large, I suggest a 5600 or 2510 instead.

I do not like the flexible SS or other types of flexible lines. They can be expensive and can allow the softener to be wobbly if someone/something bumps into the unit. Plus, although I'm not much into 'looks' when talking plumbing (or when it comes to good cooks), they don't look so nice worming their way this way'n that like a pair of pretzels. And the shinny goes away after they hang around for like a year or so collecting dust. Like others, I would use sch 40 PVC instead and put up with those saying it is not to code and if I eventually sold the place and a house inspector etc. mentioned it I'd threaten to pull the softener and allow the buyer to get his own done anyway he wanted it done, and if he still insisted, I would remove the softener.
 

F6Hawk

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Wait a minute... are you saying that a good cook shouldn't also be good in looks???
 

Fabricator

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ok guys. we now have soft water :cool:. i could tell, because as i washed my hands, it feels like all of the soap is not off. i don't like that, but i hope i get used to it.

now. i understand that this thing will not regen for about a week, correct ? so i will need the programing info to get it working right. all i have done is set the time.

so, to ALL of you guys THANX :cool: tonight i will have cold beer for each of you :cool:

in the pic, i still have to clean up. and, it looks like the lines are stressing the valve. but they are not, though i do have to put a support on the pipes just to prevent a possible future problem.

btw, it is 98deg outside now. its about 70 in the basement :)
 

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F6Hawk

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do these things soften the water, if it is not powered up ?
They will, as long as there is sodium in the resin bed; once it runs out, it requires regeneration, which requires electricity to happen. Also, I know the 7000 has a capacitor to keep time in the event of a power outage, but I believe it stops counting gallons flowed thru the system while it is unpowered, also.
 

ditttohead

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Correct, the "super capacitor" replaces the battery that was used in older system designs (and is still used sadly by some other manufacutrers) and keeps time only, the system will keep all of the programming regardless of what happens on the novram memory. After a certain amount of time, 24-48 hours, the system will stop keeping time as the capacitor power become depleted but setting the time is simple, so it is not a big deal. The valve will also flash to indicate that the power was lost at some point and once you touch a button, the flashing will stop. The SXT programming is well thought out and has many advanced functions that make the product line very easy to troubleshoot and maintain even for the DIY group.
 

Tom Sawyer

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QUOTE=Gary Slusser;345731]I was talking about the looks of installed SS flexible tubing but...

I'm just saying that most good cooks aren't lookin' much like runway model types. For one thing, they all wear white, and all year 'round![/QUOTE]

imagesCAYXGEY2.jpg


Apparently you are looking at the wrong cooks.
 

Fabricator

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Once you have decided and recieved your system, let me know and I will post the programming cheat sheet for you.

can i get that cheat sheet ? thanx


i did a test on the water yesterday. 1 drop turned it blue right off the bat , lol. wow
i need to get a farrel so i can hook up the fridge water.
 

ditttohead

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can i get that cheat sheet ? thanx


i did a test on the water yesterday. 1 drop turned it blue right off the bat , lol. wow
i need to get a farrel so i can hook up the fridge water.

Is it a 12x52 2 cu. ft. 7000SXT? Here is the programming cheat sheet for that setup.

7000 2 cu ft.jpg
 

ditttohead

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QUOTE=Gary Slusser;345731]I was talking about the looks of installed SS flexible tubing but...

I'm just saying that most good cooks aren't lookin' much like runway model types. For one thing, they all wear white, and all year 'round!

View attachment 16481


Apparently you are looking at the wrong cooks.[/QUOTE]

LOL, my wife is a great cook, I agree, must be looking at the wrong cook.
shellipool.jpg
 

F6Hawk

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Since she's not actually in the kitchen cooking, you'll just have to take my word for it that she is a awesome cook!

Cook.jpg
 

Fabricator

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Is it a 12x52 2 cu. ft. 7000SXT? Here is the programming cheat sheet for that setup.

View attachment 16487

yes. thanx. that really helps a lot. but, i have about 37 hardness. if i change that number, do i change any others ?

also, i saw where you said to check the flow meter with a magnet. the magnet does not make my "drop" flash. is it possible that i do not have it in operation, so that the drop would not indicate flow ?
i did not make any adjustments, that i know of, other than the time.
 

F6Hawk

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The magnet check was just for a stuck turbine. If your water is flowing, but your drop is not blinking, then either: 1) You are in bypass (note the arrows on the hand wheels), or 2) Your turbine is stuck.

Passing a magnet back and forth over the sensor SHOULD make it blink.
 
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