2 questions about softeners

Users who are viewing this thread

Tom Sawyer

In the Trades
Messages
3,625
Reaction score
34
Points
48
Location
Maine
The above is copied from Aquatel's web site and saves me a lot of typing so.....2 people x 75 gallons per day x 39gpg and no iron? comes out to 5858 gpg daily which could be done with a 48,000 grain capacity unit but.... I would go with a 64,000 grain capacity and get better salt efficiency. The 75 gallons per day is maybe high, most are using 60 gallons but either way I would still run a 2cu/ft filter

That is what I said in that post. Everything above that is copied off Aquatell's web site (note the red words above and in my original post and as usual.......you come to the table with NOTHING and your comment to my post was just more of your constant inability to read and comprehend. Either buy a decent pair of glasses or take an adult ed class in reading comprehension or as you love to accuse us all of.....lay off the adult beverages LOL
 

F6Hawk

New Member
Messages
166
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Alaska
There are a couple errors in that and no one should follow your thinking. I see Tom mentions something about it in a follow up post but isn't very clear. BTW, the salt dose and the water used per regeneration is all adjustable. You'd oughta stick with landlording.

And those errors are?

And I will stick to managing properties, thanks. As well as being able to treat other humans with the respect they deserve, without the constant needling that some are so good at.
 
Last edited:

Gary Slusser

That's all folks!
Messages
6,921
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Location
Wherever I park the motorhome.
Website
www.qualitywaterassociates.com
The above is copied from Aquatel's web site and saves me a lot of typing so.....2 people x 75 gallons per day x 39gpg and no iron? comes out to 5858 gpg daily which could be done with a 48,000 grain capacity unit but.... I would go with a 64,000 grain capacity and get better salt efficiency. The 75 gallons per day is maybe high, most are using 60 gallons but either way I would still run a 2cu/ft filter

That is what I said in that post. Everything above that is copied off Aquatell's web site (note the red words above and in my original post and as usual.......you come to the table with NOTHING and your comment to my post was just more of your constant inability to read and comprehend. Either buy a decent pair of glasses or take an adult ed class in reading comprehension or as you love to accuse us all of.....lay off the adult beverages LOL
You are the one that copied/pasted it and didn't say so until way at the bottom of your post, and you didn't provide a link to what you were copying. And still haven't as if everyone else knows Aquatell.

So in my opinion, you are responsible for any errors in your post, including what you copied from somewhere else.

And I said and still say, if you knew how to do this stuff you wouldn't be posting the errors in the post.

Here is what I'm talking about that y'all seem to not be able to find. Errors are in bold. Correct lbs for the K of capacity mentioned are in red.

****************
Unfortunately the resellers of the 24,000 grain system fail to reveal that it takes 27 pounds of salt to fully regenerate this system to the 24,000 grain level. It takes 11.25 lbs A more accurate description of the "24,000" system is "0.75 cubic feet". This is the amount of resin this system contains. While it's true that a user can get 24,000 grains of capacity from this amount of resin, it uses a massive amount of salt to accomplish this.

What most dealers call a "32,000" grain system is more accurately described as a "1 cubic foot" system because it contains one cubic foot of softening resin. In order to get 32,000 grains capacity from this system the user would have to use 36 pounds of salt per regeneration! It takes 17 lbs if you can get more than 30K and 15 lbs for 30K.
************

So it's more than missing zero typos you posted, you posted totally incorrect salt dose information. And how you made those typos when you typed a comma in the number (I.E. 4,800 and 6,400 for 48,000 and 64,000) says you dropped a zero but also had a comma in the wrong place and that you're copying/pasting pretending to know what you're doing but don't know.
 

Chevy427

New Member
Messages
172
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
USA
The above is copied from Aquatel's web site.....

Making direct reference to a source of literature, data, facts, ideas or philosophies of another and obviously not claiming as one's own is being responsible. Not doing so is plagiarism. I see no plagiarism here. It's accuracy can be left to debate, of course. But debate, in a mature, respect arena are welcomed by most who are sincere and professional. No one really appreciates an adolescent approach to open discussions fro very long.
 

Fabricator

Member
Messages
64
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Illinois
ok, fella's. i am chewing on all this. a few more questions. my main is 3/4" . do i need the 7000sxt larger valve for this ? the extra $60 for it is fine, if it is going to help me. but seeing as how i am probably going to be unemployed very soon, it would be wise to save money when possible.

bypass valves. i am sure the stainless is better, and it comes free with the 5600. plastic with the 7000. but is the plastic ok ?

are there any options i should get, or just the basic model ?

this is the place i am looking at, as is it out of my state = no tax.
http://www.qualitywatertreatment.com

as for my water usage, idk. but i do have a meter on it, and i just wrote down the # add will keep track of it.

i have a floor drain right by the meter. but i need to test it to see if it can be used for the waist water. i am going to dump 2 5gl buckets down it to see what happens.


i hope the pics show. first time i have ever seen em attached like this.
IMG_1762.jpgIMG_1761.jpg
 

Tom Sawyer

In the Trades
Messages
3,625
Reaction score
34
Points
48
Location
Maine
You can side by side compare valves and make your decision based on features, price and versatility. Any of the fleck line will perform very well for you. I am selling more Fleck 7000's lately because I like the overall versatility of the valve and it's increased flow rate. The plastic bypass is fine as long as you dont "stress" it with the pipe connections.
 

ditttohead

Water systems designer, R&D
Messages
6,088
Reaction score
455
Points
83
Location
Ontario California
And when it comes to not stressing the connections, these work great: http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-...ble-water-connector-34-fip-x-34-fip-x-24.aspx

Cheaper than local box stores, even with shipping, and they are not flow-restrictive as many tend to be at said stores. Ditto turned me on to these, and I love 'em!

Thanks. While I only do a few installs here and there, and I am a hard plumbing fan, the Falcon Flex connectors are excellent quality and I use them on some installs. I always use them on the large jobs to meet the warranty requirements, especially on the expensive systems. The plastic bypass is a better bypass than the stainless for flow reaons, and the versatility of the available plumbing connections. The stainless bypass is very nice as well. I sell a nearly equal amount of both and have basically no problems with either. If stress is put on the bypass, it will also be put on the valve, neither idea is good. So with either the plastic or the SS, you need to keep the stress off as you would any plumbing component.
 

ditttohead

Water systems designer, R&D
Messages
6,088
Reaction score
455
Points
83
Location
Ontario California
ok fellas. a few more questions.
i am getting the 7000
1. valve connection. i have 3/4 copper. should i get the 1" or 1 1/4" pvc ?
2. rectangle or round brine tank ? space is not an issue.
3. it says "7000 bypass valve". i assume this is the plastic valve ?
http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=18645&cat=632&page=1

thanx, again :)

3/4" copper, the 7000 has a 3/4" copper sweat connectors available, albeit expensive. Order those, otherwise, if you are going to do a flex connection install, order the falcon flex 3/4" connectors and the 7000 has plastic 3/4" MIP connectors available. You may also want to order the 90 degree adapters for thew 7000 to make the installation alittle easier.

The 7000 only has a 1-1/4" high flow bypass available.

Round brine tank always. Square works, but for the long term, round is a superior shape for any container. Square brine tanks are always trying to change to round. Square brine tanks are used for space limited installs.

Now before someone... chimes in on the round vs, square debate, please complete a physics course first, then well talk. And yes, I know square brine tanks are ok.... the question was raised, so I answered it.
 

Tom Sawyer

In the Trades
Messages
3,625
Reaction score
34
Points
48
Location
Maine
I don't like the square ones. Salt and dirt tend to load up in the corners.
 

gojoe3

Member
Messages
70
Reaction score
0
Points
6
The hard part is now done

outcast,

I'll be ordering and installing mine also.
I'm still trying to decide on the size.

I'll start a new thread to ask some of the pros here some questions.

Where did you end up purchasing the unit from?
Earlier in this thread I think you mentioned quality water treatment .com.
They are on my small list of online dealers I may purchase from.
I liked that they included the gravel base, an upper distributor basket, and choice of bypass for no additional cost. They were also willing to ship it without the standard resin, so that I could purchase SST-60 on my own if I decided to go that route.

Best wishes for a clean, no problem, install.

You probably know this already...but, don't forget to get directions on the proper settings for the control valve in respect to your salt settings which will be dependent on the BFLC your control comes with. They may not be setup correctly when you get the unit.
 

Fabricator

Member
Messages
64
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Illinois
i ended up getting it for ohiopurewater.com, $630. but idk if i have these things = gravel base, an upper distributor basket.

i now have it, it comes in 4 boxs. you can see them in the 2nd pic. this thing is a good bit larger than i thought it would be = but not a problem. the plastic bypass, this thing seem substantial . its plastic, but does not feel cheap.

now, some questions. assembly instructions pretty much do not exist, at least not in the package. so i will have to look online. but i will ask here.
1. the long tube in the brine tank. that just pushes up into the control head ? seems thats all it does.
2. on the bottom end of this tub, there is a , umm, idk what to call it. but there is 2 in the package. what is the other for ?
3, in pic 1, see the white fitting on the side of the salt tank, there is one on the control head. but there is no hose to connect them.
4. the in/out fittings. will HD etc have adaptor fitting to fit ?
5. the float, it fits. but says i may need to trim it. trim it for what ?
thanx
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1769.jpg
    IMG_1769.jpg
    41.1 KB · Views: 480
  • IMG_1770.jpg
    IMG_1770.jpg
    32.1 KB · Views: 501
Last edited by a moderator:

Fabricator

Member
Messages
64
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Illinois
ok. i didn't thoroughly read the instructions. i don't see where it says how much salt, or what kind, i should get.
 

ditttohead

Water systems designer, R&D
Messages
6,088
Reaction score
455
Points
83
Location
Ontario California
Pellet or solar salt are preferred, rock will also work, but it can be dirtier depending on the region and source. Home Depot, Lowes, etc all carry "water softener salt". Simply fill the tank, approximately 300 pounds will do. If the salt seems dirty, use it, but try a different brand next time. All salt is dirty, it is just a matter of how dirty.

Congrats!
 

Fabricator

Member
Messages
64
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Illinois
around here, everybody carries salt.

rock salt, are you talking about the stuff they spread on the roads ? i will look for the other stuff. 8 bags of it :eek:
i hope my house doesn't tilt over :D

on a side note. both of my neighbors don't even have a softener.
 

gojoe3

Member
Messages
70
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Outcast,

Congrats!

You'll do fine. Just review the instructions a few times to get to understand them.

I'm not a professional installer, but I have assisted on a few projects. From what I've learned ...

there is a lot to do before even getting to the point of putting any salt in the brine tank. It's actually one of the last things you'll do. After everything else is done, including the programming, then you will add water, it should be put in the brine tank prior to adding salt for the first time. Fill to a minimum of 2" above the salt grid. Make sure that the salt dosage is programmed as recommended. After the first regen, the valve will automatically put the correct quantity of water in the brine tank. Then you'll do a manual regen , etc., etc.. (the manual should explain it all)

Will you be doing all the plumbing work? Or will you be hiring a professional?

Solar salt is my preference. I would advise against filling the brine tank with salt. There is no reason to fill it, unless you are going away for an extended period of time and you are the only one that maintains your new softener. Many people prefer to keep just enough salt in it to satisfy 2 or 3 regens. If you fill it, especially before you've confirmed that your system is working properly, and there is a problem with your brine tank, you'll have a lot of fun emptying the salt from it.

Enjoy your new softener.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks