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Thread: 2 questions about softeners

  1. #46
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    You can side by side compare valves and make your decision based on features, price and versatility. Any of the fleck line will perform very well for you. I am selling more Fleck 7000's lately because I like the overall versatility of the valve and it's increased flow rate. The plastic bypass is fine as long as you dont "stress" it with the pipe connections.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  2. #47
    DIY Senior Member F6Hawk's Avatar
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    And when it comes to not stressing the connections, these work great: http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-7...-fip-x-24.aspx

    Cheaper than local box stores, even with shipping, and they are not flow-restrictive as many tend to be at said stores. Ditto turned me on to these, and I love 'em!

  3. #48
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by F6Hawk View Post
    And when it comes to not stressing the connections, these work great: http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-7...-fip-x-24.aspx

    Cheaper than local box stores, even with shipping, and they are not flow-restrictive as many tend to be at said stores. Ditto turned me on to these, and I love 'em!
    Thanks. While I only do a few installs here and there, and I am a hard plumbing fan, the Falcon Flex connectors are excellent quality and I use them on some installs. I always use them on the large jobs to meet the warranty requirements, especially on the expensive systems. The plastic bypass is a better bypass than the stainless for flow reaons, and the versatility of the available plumbing connections. The stainless bypass is very nice as well. I sell a nearly equal amount of both and have basically no problems with either. If stress is put on the bypass, it will also be put on the valve, neither idea is good. So with either the plastic or the SS, you need to keep the stress off as you would any plumbing component.

  4. #49
    DIY Junior Member outcast's Avatar
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    ok fellas. a few more questions.
    i am getting the 7000
    1. valve connection. i have 3/4 copper. should i get the 1" or 1 1/4" pvc ?
    2. rectangle or round brine tank ? space is not an issue.
    3. it says "7000 bypass valve". i assume this is the plastic valve ?
    http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/cu...cat=632&page=1

    thanx, again

  5. #50
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outcast View Post
    ok fellas. a few more questions.
    i am getting the 7000
    1. valve connection. i have 3/4 copper. should i get the 1" or 1 1/4" pvc ?
    2. rectangle or round brine tank ? space is not an issue.
    3. it says "7000 bypass valve". i assume this is the plastic valve ?
    http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/cu...cat=632&page=1

    thanx, again
    3/4" copper, the 7000 has a 3/4" copper sweat connectors available, albeit expensive. Order those, otherwise, if you are going to do a flex connection install, order the falcon flex 3/4" connectors and the 7000 has plastic 3/4" MIP connectors available. You may also want to order the 90 degree adapters for thew 7000 to make the installation alittle easier.

    The 7000 only has a 1-1/4" high flow bypass available.

    Round brine tank always. Square works, but for the long term, round is a superior shape for any container. Square brine tanks are always trying to change to round. Square brine tanks are used for space limited installs.

    Now before someone... chimes in on the round vs, square debate, please complete a physics course first, then well talk. And yes, I know square brine tanks are ok.... the question was raised, so I answered it.

  6. #51
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    I don't like the square ones. Salt and dirt tend to load up in the corners.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  7. #52
    DIY Junior Member outcast's Avatar
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    ok. i just ordered the 7000. i will report back when i get it.

  8. #53
    Residential Design and Consultant knowhow's Avatar
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    Default The hard part is now done

    outcast,

    I'll be ordering and installing mine also.
    I'm still trying to decide on the size.

    I'll start a new thread to ask some of the pros here some questions.

    Where did you end up purchasing the unit from?
    Earlier in this thread I think you mentioned quality water treatment .com.
    They are on my small list of online dealers I may purchase from.
    I liked that they included the gravel base, an upper distributor basket, and choice of bypass for no additional cost. They were also willing to ship it without the standard resin, so that I could purchase SST-60 on my own if I decided to go that route.

    Best wishes for a clean, no problem, install.

    You probably know this already...but, don't forget to get directions on the proper settings for the control valve in respect to your salt settings which will be dependent on the BFLC your control comes with. They may not be setup correctly when you get the unit.

  9. #54
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    I have heard good things about quality water treatment.
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  10. #55
    DIY Junior Member outcast's Avatar
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    i ended up getting it for ohiopurewater.com, $630. but idk if i have these things = gravel base, an upper distributor basket.

    i now have it, it comes in 4 boxs. you can see them in the 2nd pic. this thing is a good bit larger than i thought it would be = but not a problem. the plastic bypass, this thing seem substantial . its plastic, but does not feel cheap.

    now, some questions. assembly instructions pretty much do not exist, at least not in the package. so i will have to look online. but i will ask here.
    1. the long tube in the brine tank. that just pushes up into the control head ? seems thats all it does.
    2. on the bottom end of this tub, there is a , umm, idk what to call it. but there is 2 in the package. what is the other for ?
    3, in pic 1, see the white fitting on the side of the salt tank, there is one on the control head. but there is no hose to connect them.
    4. the in/out fittings. will HD etc have adaptor fitting to fit ?
    5. the float, it fits. but says i may need to trim it. trim it for what ?
    thanx
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    Last edited by outcast; 05-24-2012 at 06:23 PM.

  11. #56
    DIY Junior Member outcast's Avatar
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    i'm a dope. i overlooked that they had email me a installation guide. and it looks good, so far.

  12. #57
    DIY Junior Member outcast's Avatar
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    ok. i didn't thoroughly read the instructions. i don't see where it says how much salt, or what kind, i should get.

  13. #58
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Pellet or solar salt are preferred, rock will also work, but it can be dirtier depending on the region and source. Home Depot, Lowes, etc all carry "water softener salt". Simply fill the tank, approximately 300 pounds will do. If the salt seems dirty, use it, but try a different brand next time. All salt is dirty, it is just a matter of how dirty.

    Congrats!

  14. #59
    DIY Junior Member outcast's Avatar
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    around here, everybody carries salt.

    rock salt, are you talking about the stuff they spread on the roads ? i will look for the other stuff. 8 bags of it
    i hope my house doesn't tilt over

    on a side note. both of my neighbors don't even have a softener.

  15. #60
    Residential Design and Consultant knowhow's Avatar
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    Outcast,

    Congrats!

    You'll do fine. Just review the instructions a few times to get to understand them.

    I'm not a professional installer, but I have assisted on a few projects. From what I've learned ...

    there is a lot to do before even getting to the point of putting any salt in the brine tank. It's actually one of the last things you'll do. After everything else is done, including the programming, then you will add water, it should be put in the brine tank prior to adding salt for the first time. Fill to a minimum of 2" above the salt grid. Make sure that the salt dosage is programmed as recommended. After the first regen, the valve will automatically put the correct quantity of water in the brine tank. Then you'll do a manual regen , etc., etc.. (the manual should explain it all)

    Will you be doing all the plumbing work? Or will you be hiring a professional?

    Solar salt is my preference. I would advise against filling the brine tank with salt. There is no reason to fill it, unless you are going away for an extended period of time and you are the only one that maintains your new softener. Many people prefer to keep just enough salt in it to satisfy 2 or 3 regens. If you fill it, especially before you've confirmed that your system is working properly, and there is a problem with your brine tank, you'll have a lot of fun emptying the salt from it.

    Enjoy your new softener.

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