(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 41

Thread: Loud Fan Won't Turn Off

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member Kiko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    Posts
    175

    Default Loud Fan Won't Turn Off

    I have an HP Desktop 530J and am running Windows XP SP3.

    There are three cooling fans, and the loud one only used to go on for a few seconds or minutes when the room got hot or when I was using excessive CPU. Now the loud one goes on as soon as the computer boots up and NEVER goes off. It is really annoying.

    I took off the cover and vacuumed all the dust inside and I even took a couple of the fans apart to clean the insides, but the problem persists.

    Is there some kind of temp. sensor that could have burned out or is malfunctioning?
    Is there a software command I can use to turn the loud fan off?

    Edit: Now there is a new symptom. The computer spontaneously turns itself off with no warning. Is that what it does when it thinks it is overheating?

    TIA
    Last edited by Kiko; 04-06-2012 at 08:23 PM.

  2. #2
    Plumber patrick88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Webster Ma.
    Posts
    836

    Default

    Might want to check the cpu fan and heatsink. It sounds like your cpu is over heating.
    If it keeps doing this. you will be replacing your cpu.
    I'm just starting to work with an old friend of mine to bring solar electric and hot water systems, wind turbines, Flex Fuel Boilers, batteries, hydroponic gardening, books, pellet grills and more. Also the parts for DIY installation.

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member Kiko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    Posts
    175

    Default

    It does seem like the rear of the processor is getting quite hot.
    I don't know what a heat sink is. Do you think the CPU fan has stopped working?

  4. #4
    Plumber patrick88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Webster Ma.
    Posts
    836

    Default

    Open the tower n to see if the fans are all on.
    The heatsink is the round or square thng that has a fan sitting on it. If it's full of dust your cpu will over heat. your mother board is telling you something is over heating. You need to solve this problem soon. If not your spending money. New cpu or new computer.
    I'm just starting to work with an old friend of mine to bring solar electric and hot water systems, wind turbines, Flex Fuel Boilers, batteries, hydroponic gardening, books, pellet grills and more. Also the parts for DIY installation.

  5. #5
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,676

    Default

    Chances are it is a PWM fan and the high speed could be one of two things. Either the fan is out of control or there is a call for more cooling. If the pulse wire is open, the fan may run at full speed. I frequently replace those fans but usually because they stop turning.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fan_control

    You might be able to monitor temp and RPM with SpeedFan. I have used it with several laptops before.

    http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php

    You might also check for a BIOS update from HP. Also, check out HP's support forum.

    http://www8.hp.com/us/en/support-drivers.html

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member Kiko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    Posts
    175

    Default

    Okay, I've had to borrow another tower to get back on line.

    It was the CPU fan that was running on high speed all the time, and after an hour, the computer would power down.
    The problem got much worse, once I took out the CPU fan and heat sink, cleaned them and put them back.
    Now it runs on high speed for only a few minutes before the computer powers down.

    The case is open when I'm testing this, so I don't know why the board should be overheating. Is there some kind of heat sensor that could be failing? Or is there something in the CPU board that is overheating, even though I don't detect any heat?
    Last edited by Kiko; 04-11-2012 at 02:30 PM.

  7. #7
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Yakima WA
    Posts
    7,246

    Default

    I suggest you keep tinker with this until the CPU fries. Whatever you do, don't take it to a repair shop. They'd want to put test instrument on things and diagnose the problem.

  8. #8
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    1,772

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kiko View Post
    Okay, I've had to borrow another tower to get back on line.

    It was the CPU fan that was running on high speed all the time, and after an hour, the computer would power down.
    The problem got much worse, once I took out the CPU fan and heat sink, cleaned them and put them back.
    Now it runs on high speed for only a few minutes before the computer powers down.

    The case is open when I'm testing this, so I don't know why the board should be overheating. Is there some kind of heat sensor that could be failing? Or is there something in the CPU board that is overheating, even though I don't detect any heat?
    When you removed the heatsink and fan unit and cleaned them up, you ABSOLUTELY needed to (is that clear enough?), apply a heat transfer paste as per the instructions supplied with it. I have always used Arctic Silver when I build my Desktop PC's see: http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-.../dp/B0002VFXFE The CPU and or its socket has a sensor to detect the overheating and shut the CPU down to protect it, so that part works. If you do not want to destroy your PC, then buy and apply this paste, and then get back to the fan issue. Is the noise just it running at high speed, or does it squeal and strain like it is constipated?
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  9. #9
    Plumber patrick88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Webster Ma.
    Posts
    836

    Default

    i guess I should have said. Don't remove heat sink n fan.
    Thank you bob for pointing that out.
    At this point i would take back up computer n make it your prime pc.
    I have a laptop that a friend of mine gave me. It was over heating. I removed windows n it runs fine now.
    I am not saying do this
    I'm just starting to work with an old friend of mine to bring solar electric and hot water systems, wind turbines, Flex Fuel Boilers, batteries, hydroponic gardening, books, pellet grills and more. Also the parts for DIY installation.

  10. #10
    DIY Senior Member Kiko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    Posts
    175

    Default

    Problem solved.

    I took out the fan and heatsink assembly one more time, and this time I noticed a small crack in the plastic heatsink mount, which caused the copper disc on the bottom of the heatsink to pull away from the CPU board. Apparently, it was still making small contact before I had removed the heatsink. But once I removed and reinstalled it, there was no contact, which is why it powered off so quickly.

    I bought an all metal replacement heatsink/fan, so this problem should not happen again.

    BTW, Gary, the repair shops wanted from $100 -$300 to diagnose the problem and much more for parts. I'm sure they would have also tried to sell me an unneeded CPU board as well.

    By "tinkering" with it myself, it only cost me $25, and I also gained a lot of knowledge.


    Thanks to all who responded.
    Last edited by Kiko; 04-21-2012 at 03:14 PM.

  11. #11
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    1,772

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kiko View Post
    Problem solved.

    I took out the fan and heatsink assembly one more time, and this time I noticed a small crack in the plastic heatsink mount, which caused the copper disc on the bottom of the heatsink to pull away from the CPU board. Apparently, it was still making small contact before I had removed the heatsink. But once I removed and reinstalled it, there was no contact, which is why it powered off so quickly.

    I bought an all metal replacement heatsink/fan, so this problem should not happen again.

    BTW, Gary, the repair shops wanted from $100 -$300 to diagnose the problem and much more for parts. I'm sure they would have also tried to sell me an unneeded CPU board as well.

    By "tinkering" with it myself, it only cost me $25, and I also gained a lot of knowledge.


    Thanks to all who responded.
    Good news and success is always good to hear. congrats! you did use the heat sink paste this time though, right?
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  12. #12
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,642

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    Good news and success is always good to hear. congrats! you did use the heat sink paste this time though, right?

    A lot of the new CPU Heatsinks do not use the Monkey Poo heat sink paste, they now have a Silicone Heatsink Pad.

    Not sure what is best, they both seem to work good.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    1,772

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    A lot of the new CPU Heatsinks do not use the Monkey Poo heat sink paste, they now have a Silicone Heatsink Pad.

    Not sure what is best, they both seem to work good.
    Last PC I built was over 3 years ago, and I haven't heard of the silicone pad thing. I'm going to look into that.

    OK, only thing I found was various types of paste and phase change compounds, but for silicone pad, I found this rather unrelated place, but it does have something to do with heat for sure. http://www.lovemybubbles.com/?ref=cj
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  14. #14
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,642

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    Last PC I built was over 3 years ago, and I haven't heard of the silicone pad thing. I'm going to look into that.

    OK, only thing I found was various types of paste and phase change compounds, but for silicone pad, I found this rather unrelated place, but it does have something to do with heat for sure. http://www.lovemybubbles.com/?ref=cj

    Wow, I like it...
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  15. #15
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,642

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    Last PC I built was over 3 years ago, and I haven't heard of the silicone pad thing. I'm going to look into that.

    OK, only thing I found was various types of paste and phase change compounds, but for silicone pad, I found this rather unrelated place, but it does have something to do with heat for sure. http://www.lovemybubbles.com/?ref=cj

    You know why they call it Silicon Rubber ?

    Because they have Silicon, and You need a Rubber.


    My Bad.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

Similar Threads

  1. Hard to turn shower hot and cold Kolher 1/4 turn valve stems
    By magnumip in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-11-2011, 06:31 AM
  2. 15 year old Kinetico 30 getting loud ...
    By maddog in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12-23-2010, 08:43 AM
  3. can a multi-turn shutoff turn itself on?
    By dekelly in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-21-2009, 07:26 AM
  4. What is the best shallow well pump to buy? Not to loud!
    By grandparay in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-13-2008, 07:16 PM
  5. how far to turn sink, tub, or toilet shutoff valves to turn on water
    By ydelamater in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-12-2007, 06:28 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •